joebedford
Home for the summer.
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Joined: 09/03/2003
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ThruTraffic wrote:wa8yxm wrote:Glad to see you found the problem.
Uhhhh, I haven't found the problem.
Talk about not reading posts ....
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wnjj
Cornelius, Oregon
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Joined: 01/11/2007
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I think this was mentioned earlier but you need to put a decent load in the RV then measure the voltage at every possible place you can between the source and load. You’ve said the voltage is good at the pedestal and bad at the load. This means there is a resistive connection somewhere. While under load, measure the output side of the breaker the load is connected to in the RV panel. Then measure another one to eliminate the breaker and wiring to the load. Next move upstream to the feeder line, transfer switch, etc.
The problem will be between the last “good” voltage and first “bad” one.
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time2roll
Southern California
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Joined: 03/21/2005
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wnjj wrote:I think this was mentioned earlier but you need to put a decent load in the RV then measure the voltage at every possible place you can between the source and load. You’ve said the voltage is good at the pedestal and bad at the load. This means there is a resistive connection somewhere. While under load, measure the output side of the breaker the load is connected to in the RV panel. Then measure another one to eliminate the breaker and wiring to the load. Next move upstream to the feeder line, transfer switch, etc.
The problem will be between the last “good” voltage and first “bad” one. Yes keep poking around until most of the voltage drop is found. Should not take more than a few minutes once there is access. Tightening a connector is not proof that it is functioning... need to measure.
Hard to tell what the error codes are saying without the owner's manual.
2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675w Solar pictures back up
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Dusty R
Charlotte Michigan 48813
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Joined: 04/05/2003
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Maybe try a heat sensor, and check the entire path that the current will flow.
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ThruTraffic
USA
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Joined: 01/24/2017
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wnjj wrote:I think this was mentioned earlier but you need to put a decent load in the RV then measure the voltage at every possible place you can between the source and load. You’ve said the voltage is good at the pedestal and bad at the load. This means there is a resistive connection somewhere. While under load, measure the output side of the breaker the load is connected to in the RV panel. Then measure another one to eliminate the breaker and wiring to the load. Next move upstream to the feeder line, transfer switch, etc.
The problem will be between the last “good” voltage and first “bad” one.
25 amps good enough? Note my last big post. There's nothing left to test; it's all new.
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ThruTraffic
USA
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Dusty R wrote:Maybe try a heat sensor, and check the entire path that the current will flow.
Again, last big post; entire wire pathway has been replaced, and rerouted to shorten it which all by itself should help abate any attenuation issues.
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ThruTraffic
USA
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time2roll wrote:wnjj wrote:I think this was mentioned earlier but you need to put a decent load in the RV then measure the voltage at every possible place you can between the source and load. You’ve said the voltage is good at the pedestal and bad at the load. This means there is a resistive connection somewhere. While under load, measure the output side of the breaker the load is connected to in the RV panel. Then measure another one to eliminate the breaker and wiring to the load. Next move upstream to the feeder line, transfer switch, etc.
The problem will be between the last “good” voltage and first “bad” one. Yes keep poking around until most of the voltage drop is found. Should not take more than a few minutes once there is access. Tightening a connector is not proof that it is functioning... need to measure.
Hard to tell what the error codes are saying without the owner's manual.
See first and last big post.
Residential type 120/240v electrical systems don't give error codes.
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wa8yxm
Davison Michigan (East of Flint)
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joebedford wrote:
Talk about not reading posts ....
I read the post. Just not the the poster
It was a different poster who found the problem of the loose screw.
Sorry about that.
Still. as I said many RVers have a few screws loose.. The kind you tighten with a #2 Square or phillips bit .
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times
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time2roll
Southern California
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ThruTraffic wrote:
See first and last big post.
Residential type 120/240v electrical systems don't give error codes. OK and in the first post was mentioned E1, E2, E5
If everything has been replaced..... the voltage drop must be normal.
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wnjj
Cornelius, Oregon
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ThruTraffic wrote:wnjj wrote:I think this was mentioned earlier but you need to put a decent load in the RV then measure the voltage at every possible place you can between the source and load. You’ve said the voltage is good at the pedestal and bad at the load. This means there is a resistive connection somewhere. While under load, measure the output side of the breaker the load is connected to in the RV panel. Then measure another one to eliminate the breaker and wiring to the load. Next move upstream to the feeder line, transfer switch, etc.
The problem will be between the last “good” voltage and first “bad” one.
25 amps good enough? Note my last big post. There's nothing left to test; it's all new.
Maybe I'm missing something but I saw a post with various voltage drops measured with increasing loads turned on but not one where you measured multiple places along the same circuit. Your last big post talks about replacing a bunch of stuff. Neither of those addresses my suggestion.
When you have a voltage drop between two end points, there has to be an explanation. If it's simply due to wire size/length it will continuously decrease along the way and as you say it will be normal.
If what you are experiencing is abnormal, there must be someplace causing the drop. Rather than guessing, you should measure the voltage along every specific place you can access between the supply and the load.
You're also a bit all over the place with changing shore power cords and pulling the meter when as you said, the same happens on the generator. So the problem either persists inside your RV, or it's not actually a problem at all and is normal.
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