The GEO Method and Space Heaters - Thoughts?

[Baja_Man]

Preparing for a week long trip. It will be approx. 300 miles one way to our destination.

1.
I wanted to take this driving opportunity to clean my RV holding tanks.
I was considering using the GEO method (minus Chlorine). My goal is to cleanse inside of tanks, especially black tank, and perhaps coat the insides with the slippery water softener (Calgon).

I would fill each tank half way (Gray and Black) with Calgon and Laundry detergent and then dump once we reach our destination.

Are other methods to accomplish my goal of clean tanks.

Thoughts?

2. Space heaters. Propane heaters use quite a bit of propane. It appears it will dip in to the high 30s-low-mid 40s during our stay. I have two 30# propane tanks.

Are space heaters safe to use or what other methods can be used for my family to keep warm AND safe?

NOTE: We are warm weather campers, so we have little experience in colder temps.

Thanks!

[Pbutler97]

JRscooby wrote:

Pbutler97 wrote:



Why not provide an example of something such as a portable appliance or something else, that an RV owner is going to have or bring to the campground, that has a 20 amp male plug and requires 20 amps.

Well, my camper AC has a 20 AMP plug.

But maybe I should of said FD arson or insurance company investigator. With the drop in price of RVs some people will have trouble making payments. Any time there are lots of people upside down on loans, there starts to be problems with overheated insurance policies.

LOL....Ok......... Happy Thanksgiving

[JRscooby]

Pbutler97 wrote:



Why not provide an example of something such as a portable appliance or something else, that an RV owner is going to have or bring to the campground, that has a 20 amp male plug and requires 20 amps.

Well, my camper AC has a 20 AMP plug.

But maybe I should of said FD arson or insurance company investigator. With the drop in price of RVs some people will have trouble making payments. Any time there are lots of people upside down on loans, there starts to be problems with overheated insurance policies.

[Pbutler97]

JRscooby wrote:

Pbutler97 wrote:

ktmrfs wrote:


that's what I have used however do NOT install the 20A outlet on a 15A circuit!!!!!! against code, use the 15A outlet, you don't want to be able to try to run something with a 20A plug on a 15A circuit.

Who catches you for that, the RV code police that patrol campgrounds?

Maybe the fire department?
Why do you think the regulations are written? I'm sure I have not followed all in upgrades on my stuff, but if I know about the regulation on wiring, I follow it.
IIRC, my NEC bible is about 20 years old, so maybe some of my upgrades might not be right for a house I rented out, but legal for the 1 I live in.

Why not provide an example of something such as a portable appliance or something else, that an RV owner is going to have or bring to the campground, that has a 20 amp male plug and requires 20 amps.

[JRscooby]

Pbutler97 wrote:

ktmrfs wrote:


that's what I have used however do NOT install the 20A outlet on a 15A circuit!!!!!! against code, use the 15A outlet, you don't want to be able to try to run something with a 20A plug on a 15A circuit.

Who catches you for that, the RV code police that patrol campgrounds?

Maybe the fire department?
Why do you think the regulations are written? I'm sure I have not followed all in upgrades on my stuff, but if I know about the regulation on wiring, I follow it.
IIRC, my NEC bible is about 20 years old, so maybe some of my upgrades might not be right for a house I rented out, but legal for the 1 I live in.

[Pbutler97]

ktmrfs wrote:


that's what I have used however do NOT install the 20A outlet on a 15A circuit!!!!!! against code, use the 15A outlet, you don't want to be able to try to run something with a 20A plug on a 15A circuit.

Who catches you for that, the RV code police that patrol campgrounds?


What is a typical RV owner going to have that even has a 20 amp male plug and requires 20 amps. A 25 yr old window air conditioner or a rotary demolition hammer?

[rhagfo]

Well dad was a firefighter so he hated electric space heaters as do I. That said we heat electrically, I installed RV Comfort Systems “Cheap Heat” an electric heating element unit that adds on to our furnace. We can heat with gas or electricity with a flip of a switch. If you have a 30 amp service you can get 1,800 watts of heat on a dictated 20 amp circuit. If you have a 50’Mp service you can get 5,000 watts of heat on a 30 amp 240 volt circuit. All is UL listed.
RV Comfort Systems

[Baja_Man]

ktmrfs wrote:

Baja Man wrote:
So how about these....assuming a box can be installed.

If box will not fit, where can the higher quality RV specific receptacles be sourced? How will I know they are better than what I have? The ones I have seen appear to require a tool to install wires in rear. They also appear to be of same quality as I have now (stab style).

Commercial grade outlet

that's what I have used however do NOT install the 20A outlet on a 15A circuit!!!!!! against code, use the 15A outlet, you don't want to be able to try to run something with a 20A plug on a 15A circuit.

There is a "shallow" retrofit plastic box that in my trailer was shallow enough to fit in the existing wall.

Yes on the 15amp...the pic was just for reference for commercial grade

[Baja_Man]

Thanks everyone.
Considering I am leaving this Friday, once I return from my trip I'll come back to this thread and see about making the upgrades.

[Baja_Man]

Grit dog wrote:
Would seem easier at this point to just use your furnace and a little more propane…

I agree.....since I'm leaving on Friday, I don't have the time to do the upgrades. I'll run the propane furnace this time and see about the outlet upgrades at a later time.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

Use the best quality you can find with screw terminals. My replacement outlets are all 15 amp.

The "extra" outlets for my two auxiliary shore power cords are 15 amp, and 20 amp with appropriate wiring.

I'm set up to use the OEM 30; add on 20; and add on 15 amp.

While you are at this, take the time to tighten all the connections in the breaker panel. Some of mine took one whole turn.

[Grit_dog]

Would seem easier at this point to just use your furnace and a little more propane…

[ktmrfs]

Baja Man wrote:
So how about these....assuming a box can be installed.

If box will not fit, where can the higher quality RV specific receptacles be sourced? How will I know they are better than what I have? The ones I have seen appear to require a tool to install wires in rear. They also appear to be of same quality as I have now (stab style).

Commercial grade outlet

that's what I have used however do NOT install the 20A outlet on a 15A circuit!!!!!! against code, use the 15A outlet, you don't want to be able to try to run something with a 20A plug on a 15A circuit.

There is a "shallow" retrofit plastic box that in my trailer was shallow enough to fit in the existing wall.

[Baja_Man]

So how about these....assuming a box can be installed.

If box will not fit, where can the higher quality RV specific receptacles be sourced? How will I know they are better than what I have? The ones I have seen appear to require a tool to install wires in rear. They also appear to be of same quality as I have now (stab style).

Commercial grade outlet

[ktmrfs]

Baja Man wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
Baja Man,

Please replace the outlet where you intend to connect the electric heater.

I replaced all but one of the outlets.

Is this appropriate grade? It has side screws as well as push in connections. Is screw connections preferred in RVs?

Also, should I expect a receptacle box or will I find those enclosed wirecon type boxes/receptacles? If the latter, perhaps an old work box and receptacle would be best.

15 amp residential receptacle

Thanks!

I never use "residential grade" switches, outlets etc.

the outlets are designed ( and code required) to be used in a box, the RV outlets are designed to not need a box. Problem is that many trailer walls are to thin for most boxes, need a shallow box.

use a comercial grade outlet or better. They have much better and higher spring contact on the blades, better material on the blades and better frame and better side lugs.