JIMNLIN
Oklahoma
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Joined: 09/14/2003
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Quote: I don't think deeper gears increases payload in and of itself. On the 2023 F-350's, opting for the Dana 4.30 axle over the Sterling 3.73 axle, with the right tires, increases the GVWR by 400lbs. In fact, it's the only way to get the 11,900 GVWR package.
The Sterling may well be a stronger axle assy than the Dana. Many times our LDT mfg may have to use a different axle mfg to get the desired gear ratio.
However GVWR doesn't carry the the load in the bed from a truck camper/heavy GN or 5th wheel trailer hitch weight. Your still limited by Fords 7230 rawr which is the lessor of a tire/wheel /rear spring pack.
Fords F350 srw has over a dozen different GVWR's from 10000 gvwr on up to 12400 gvwr.....with the same 7230 rawr... regardless of axle mfg.
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers
'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 two slides
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StirCrazy
Kamloops, BC, Canada
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Joined: 07/16/2003
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BeMurda wrote:Grit dog wrote:BeMurda wrote:Grit dog wrote:BeMurda wrote:I think I will stick to fiberglass or aluminum types of construction. Lance, Wolf Creek, Northern Lite,
There is a Lance 950S with factory weight 3154 that I really want to look at getting but should probably go lighter. I did order the highest payload Dana rear axle.
You’re not quite understanding the camper construction types.
Aluminum is used in reference to the basic frame skeleton vs wood. I noticed zero difference between our 2 TCs which were identical except the wood one was older and we owned it longer. There’s still copious amounts of wood in most any camper that will be damaged by leaks. If it’s to the point that the frame is rotting it likely already has more damage than feasibly repairable to the other wood components. And even an aluminum frame camper would be basically destroyed due to the “other” parts rotting or delaminating.
Didn’t notice any weight savings or vice versa either with our campers.
The fiberglass were speaking of is clam shell exterior. (which will still have a bunch of wood under it). But it won’t have the full length seams at every corner that are all potential leak sources.
And realize that there isn’t an axle option under basically any 3/4 or 1 ton truck from the last 25 ish years or more that isnt rated to around 10klbs capacity. The axle is actually the strongest part of the truck equation for HD srw trucks. You didn’t get anything special axle wise to figure into your acceptable payload decision.
Yes, I did know all that about the construction, but it is still a good summary thanks ![[emoticon]](https://forums.goodsamclub.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
Regarding the axle, I'm sure you are correct that they are all rated for far more. What I was referring to is the Dana 4.30 axle increases the GVWR 400lbs relative to the Sterling 3.73 axle.
I also picked the 18 inch wheels and AT tires with the highest rating from the factory.
Actually you don’t understand any of it if you think deeper gears increases payload.
You could easily haul a 4400lb Truck camper around on a 30 year old F350 with a 351 Windsor and whatever gears they came with.
And 18” OE rims dont carry any more than the 20s.
You’ve ordered a very nice truck, congrats and good luck with your search for a camper.
Not sure where that tone came from, no, I don't think deeper gears increases payload in and of itself. On the 2023 F-350's, opting for the Dana 4.30 axle over the Sterling 3.73 axle, with the right tires, increases the GVWR by 400lbs. In fact, it's the only way to get the 11,900 GVWR package.
but when I got mine , opting for the sterling with 20" tires got me an extra 500. might be the difference with the gas vs the diesel in that package, but I can tell you the sterling is raed way higher than they use it for also. its probably the 430's that they are using as it makes starting easier , so it will save you fuel in town but man whould I hate to have a gear that steep on the highway. but it might not be to bad with new transmssions...
2014 F350 6.7 Platinum
2016 Cougar 330RBK
1991 Slumberqueen WS100
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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Joined: 05/06/2013
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No tone intended, it’s just tough to write 1000 words explaining what those who aren’t well versed in heavy use of light duty trucks don’t understand.
Bottom line, the limiting factors for load carrying in virtually any/all srw HD pickup is OE spring capacity and/or OE rim rating. Tires are 3rd as it’s easy to get 4000lb rated LT tires.
If you’re already spending $60-100k for a truck and $15-50k for a camper what’s $500-1000 in suspension upgrades or a couple grand for higher rated 18” wheels or 19.5s if you’re not comfortable exceeding rim ratings?
You may want or need the suspension upgrades even if within the OE payload. Mostly due for the higher cog of a TC compared to, say, a 4000lb pallet of brick or a load of wet firewood in the bed.
Think about it this way. DRW trucks (which now have a bit stouter rear axles in the last few years but used to all run approx 10klb versions of the same axles as srws for years) have the same frame/chassis but have let’s say avg 6klb payload ratings. What’s the difference? Springs and 2 more tires. That’s it.
All without getting into the propensity for failure, or lack thereof, of OE srw rims at their ~3600lb ratings. Have abused and overloaded enough trucks/wheels over the last 35 years to have a great deal of confidence that a slightly overloaded OE rim will not fail, short of some serious extenuating circumstance type of loading (severe impact). But you’re already past that point since you’re comfortable maxxing out a srw without the added security of training wheels.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold
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JimK-NY
NY
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Grit dog wrote:Tires are 3rd as it’s easy to get 4000lb rated LT tires.
That has not been my experience. My first truck was a 2500 2010 Ram. It came with 17" rims. I could not find any tires with a rating over 3400# so I upgraded to 19.5 rims and tires at a cost of close to $3k.
My current truck is a 2018 3500 Ram with 20" rims. Max tire load capacity I could find was 3640#.
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jimh406
Western MT
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JimK-NY wrote:My current truck is a 2018 3500 Ram with 20" rims. Max tire load capacity I could find was 3640#.
Michelin Defenders are rated at 4080.
MICHELIN
Defender LTX M/S
295/65 R20 129R
I think there are some other brands that have similar rated tires.
'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 DS, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Bags, Toyo M655 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.
NRA Life Member, CCA Life Member
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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jimh406 wrote:JimK-NY wrote:My current truck is a 2018 3500 Ram with 20" rims. Max tire load capacity I could find was 3640#.
Michelin Defenders are rated at 4080.
MICHELIN
Defender LTX M/S
295/65 R20 129R
I think there are some other brands that have similar rated tires.
Depends on tire size but 17” LT tires have been the bass turd size for years. Very few tires available over 3195lb cap. Idk why. Although I see Toyo still offers high load cap MTs.
Ran 295-70-17s with 4000lb load with our first camper.
Yes one will have to get a bit bigger than stock size to get close to or at 4000lbs but any new HD 4x4 will fit 35” tires no problem. (Maybe not GM with the square wheel wells…)
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JimK-NY
NY
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OEM for my 2018 3500 Ram is 285/60r20. Not sure if 295/65r20 would fit but they would throw off speedometer and shifting by 5%.
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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JimK-NY wrote:OEM for my 2018 3500 Ram is 285/60r20. Not sure if 295/65r20 would fit but they would throw off speedometer and shifting by 5%.
It would be a little tight in full lock turns without trimming and/or leveling, but the speedometer and the transmission won’t care.
If you need the tire capacity or want the look they’re doable without much issue.
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mkirsch
Rochester, NY
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Joined: 04/09/2004
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The best used camper is the one that is for sale, is close enough that you're willing to drive to get it, in a condition that you find acceptable, at a price that you find acceptable.
Otherwise you're just limiting yourself to what could be a potentially futile search for one or two specific models that may not meet the above criteria.
Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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mkirsch wrote:The best used camper is the one that is for sale, is close enough that you're willing to drive to get it, in a condition that you find acceptable, at a price that you find acceptable.
Otherwise you're just limiting yourself to what could be a potentially futile search for one or two specific models that may not meet the above criteria.
Best response yet. Especially given the lack of civilization where the OP is, lack of having a truck and much less chance of finding anything acceptable or not overpriced on short notice in the middle of the camping season once the OP actually has a truck.
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