WarrenS65
SoCal
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I put one of the stackable yellow plastic blocks under each jack. It flexes a bit so the entire jack foot can be in contact with the block and the block in contact with the concrete.
A 2% grade is pretty minimal. Just use the jacks to level it or have the front a bit higher than the back.
If you're storing it for a long time, I would support the belly as well, but it's not really necessary.
2022 F450
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BeMurda
Canada
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I ordered the camco yellow block and shelled out for the rubber base.
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MORSNOW
Mountain Home, ID
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JRscooby wrote:BeMurda wrote:
Ok since sliding is a concern should I use typical plastic blocks then? The truck camper is also going to be unloaded during winter and there may be some frozen moisture though I will clean it best I can.
If anyone can recommend a product I would appreciate it! Thanks!
Not sure plastic would be best idea, think I would want rubber. In my life, I would use mud flap or belting. Maybe floor mat. Grab a alligator off highway, cut to length.
Semi mudflaps are pretty inexpensive and can be cut with a razor knife or saw. I bought a couple for around $23.00 ea
2014 Wolf Creek 850SB
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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BeMurda wrote:I ordered the camco yellow block and shelled out for the rubber base.
Not the 7” tall one meant for trailer stab jacks I hope. That would be a good recipe for jack damage or camper tipping.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
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covered wagon
USA
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Joined: 05/01/2004
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Depending on how high your truck bed is sometimes it's easy to over extend the jacks and cause damage to them so putting wood 2x6's under the foot adds some lea way making it less likely to over extend them.
My 15 year old plastic ones, two packages of them, sometimes don't go high enough for level. They do get damaged sometimes without a pad or sink without a pad. If I was to do it over I would appreciate the wood blocks more since they have greater leveling ability/ more lift with each block.
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JRscooby
Indepmo
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Joined: 06/10/2019
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MORSNOW wrote:JRscooby wrote:BeMurda wrote:
Ok since sliding is a concern should I use typical plastic blocks then? The truck camper is also going to be unloaded during winter and there may be some frozen moisture though I will clean it best I can.
If anyone can recommend a product I would appreciate it! Thanks!
Not sure plastic would be best idea, think I would want rubber. In my life, I would use mud flap or belting. Maybe floor mat. Grab a alligator off highway, cut to length.
Semi mudflaps are pretty inexpensive and can be cut with a razor knife or saw. I bought a couple for around $23.00 ea
Watch, You don't want plastic mudflaps. But if you stop by where dump trucks park you can normally pick up torn ones for a thank you.
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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covered wagon wrote:Depending on how high your truck bed is sometimes it's easy to over extend the jacks and cause damage to them so putting wood 2x6's under the foot adds some lea way making it less likely to over extend them.
My 15 year old plastic ones, two packages of them, sometimes don't go high enough for level. They do get damaged sometimes without a pad or sink without a pad. If I was to do it over I would appreciate the wood blocks more since they have greater leveling ability/ more lift with each block.
You pretend like the plastic blocks are a life decision that you can’t reverse? Lol
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gregchambers
West Coast
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Unfortunately I don’t have pictures and I no longer need to unload on a slopped driveway but I once did. I found that lifting the camper off the slopped truck bed was challenging, especially when reloading and it placed a lot of stress on the jacks. I would back part way, get out and slide ramps under my front tires and then using 4x4 low range back up the ramps. I made a set of 10” tall wheel ramps from pressure treated lumber that allowed me to back up the driveway and be level. I made four blocks from the same lumber that compensated for the slope so my jack bottoms were level and could not “walk” down my driveway. Using the side of my driveway as a guide and placing small paint marks to show where the ramps should be placed the loading and unloading process was relatively easy.
PS, I’ve had the same 30 orange Lego blocks i use for leveling the truck and placing under the jacks for over eight years with no breakage. Lumber is fine but heavy!
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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gregchambers wrote:Unfortunately I don’t have pictures and I no longer need to unload on a slopped driveway but I once did. I found that lifting the camper off the slopped truck bed was challenging, especially when reloading and it placed a lot of stress on the jacks. I would back part way, get out and slide ramps under my front tires and then using 4x4 low range back up the ramps. I made a set of 10” tall wheel ramps from pressure treated lumber that allowed me to back up the driveway and be level. I made four blocks from the same lumber that compensated for the slope so my jack bottoms were level and could not “walk” down my driveway. Using the side of my driveway as a guide and placing small paint marks to show where the ramps should be placed the loading and unloading process was relatively easy.
PS, I’ve had the same 30 orange Lego blocks i use for leveling the truck and placing under the jacks for over eight years with no breakage. Lumber is fine but heavy!
Lego levelers, no problem under the jacks, if you only use one and don't stack them. I was referring to what the OP may have purchased, based on what he said, albeit sort of vague.
Regarding unloading on a steeper hardscaped slope, yes, having a tapered base plate under each jack is advisable/necessary. But the rest of the process you describe sounds wholly unnecessary, especially if 10" tall ramps leveled up the truck, your driveway was at about a 3.5 deg or 7% slope. Wort case you'd run out of jack travel on the front jacks and maybe need to block those up compared to the rear.
Regarding loading and unloading, especially in a known set of conditions, it's just too easy to figure out where the jacks need to be to get out from under the camper the first time and then just run the jacks back to the same position each time.
I'd do that all the time if we were camping and unloaded on very uneven ground. Get the camper up to where the truck will pull out. Mark the jacks and then just run them back up to those marks when loading back up. It did take all the fun and suspense out of it though...lol.
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JRscooby
Indepmo
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gregchambers wrote:
PS, I’ve had the same 30 orange Lego blocks i use for leveling the truck and placing under the jacks for over eight years with no breakage. Lumber is fine but heavy!
I carry a bunch of the "legos" for leveling camper, and many other things around the campsite. But at home, I have 4X4s bolted to end of mudflap. Other side of flap, spaced right, I bolted a 2X4. Back in, tire goes over 2X, hits 4X. Trailer is chocked. Plus the rubber keeps weeds growing thru gravel far enough from tire for weed-eater string not to hit tire. Have been in place for 20+ years, so don't much worry about how heavy they are.
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