Fisherguy
Vancouver BC
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We have a 07 27' Komfort trailer, I put 480 watts of panels on the roof, we have a 600 watt inverter for the Sat TV and 2 GC batteries. The only time we need to fire up the genny is after 2 or 3 days of rain. We only boondock, never have hookups.
I'm on the ORV Facebook group and people there seem to have lotsa money to upgrade their new expensive trailers. 3000 watt inverters, lithium batteries and 12 volt fridges are all the rage.
So now I've found a 2019 ORV with 3 - 100 Ah Lithium batteries, a 12 volt fridge, 600 watts of solar and an automatic sat dish on the roof for sale at (what I think is) a great price. I think the owners travel a lot in the US with full hookups.
It also unfortunately has a Schwintek slide, so I've been researching that but also I'm unsure if the 600 watts of solar would be enough for us when boondocking for 3 or 4 weeks at a time.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks and Merry Christmas
Will
* This post was
edited 12/24/22 04:36pm by Fisherguy *
06 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins 6 spd std with a few goodies.
2007 Komfort 274TS, 480 watts solar, Trimetric 2025RV, PD9280, Honda EU2000i, Xantrex SW600
2019 Timber Ridge 24RLS, 600 watts solar, 3-100Ah Lithiums, 12volt Norcold Fridge
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Joined: 12/18/2004
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do an energy audit
find a spreadsheet here:
https://freecampsites.net/adding-solar-part-four/
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
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JimK-NY
NY
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Doing an audit can be largely guesswork especially if you have not had any experience running that 12v compressor refrigerator. You can start by checking the specs for amperage. A small 4 cuft unit will pull about 3.5 amps. If you camp in cool weather and don't try to cool down room temperature items, you might get by with 30 AH/day. More typical use would be twice that especially when camping in warmer weather. A larger unit is likely to pull well over 100 AH/day.
You also need to be realistic about how much energy you can expect from your solar unit. I am in NY, at this time of year if we ever have a clear day the maximum output for 600 watts of solar would be less than 100 AH. Lots of my camping in done in the woods with little or no solar even on a good day. You did not mention the size of the battery bank but certainly that needs to be sized appropriately also.
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ScottG
Bothell Wa.
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Joined: 02/25/2005
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It's going to depend A LOT on exactly what 12V fridge you have.
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SJ-Chris
San Jose, Ca
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12v refrigerators will likely use 30-60AH/day.
Your propane refrigerator does use some 12v power, but let's assume it is small enough compared to the amount the 12v refrigerator uses and you can ignore it.
Your two 100AH lithium batteries gives you probably 20-30 extra useable AHs compared to your two 6V batteries.
The 600w of solar gives you 120w more than you have now. In a sunny environment that will give you 25-35AH/day more than you had.
From the above, it seems like it is about a wash and if you were okay before with your battery life/use you will probably be ok with this new rig.
If the new rig has a generator, then you've always got that as a backup. My suggestion would be to try it out and see if you are satisfied. If needed, you can always add one more 100AH lithium down the road and another solar panel or two.
Good luck!
Chris
San Jose, CA
Own two 2015 Thor Majestic 28a Class C RVs
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time2roll
Southern California
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12v compressor fridge? Get the make and model #
2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675w Solar pictures back up
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Fisherguy
Vancouver BC
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Thanks for the advice so far.
The 12v fridge is a Norcold. The trailer came with an 8 CF fridge and from what I understand people are replacing them with 10 CF 12v fridges?
We have a 2000 watt Honda generator that worked well with the PF9280 I put in the old trailer but since I added the panels I rarely use it to charge the GC's in the old trailer, best mod ever.
The owner of the ORV put 3 100Ah Lithiums in it, was going to keep one for his slide in camper but is willing to keep it with the trailer, negotiable.
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3 tons
NV.
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First, You need to determine whether it’s a dc 12v compressor fridge OR a 12v heater element fridge…A compressor fridge is more efficient and typically has better insulation…
For solar, the method I use for real world ‘calc purposes’ (obviously region dependent) is to de-rate the panels by 50%, and to assume a 60% refer duty cycle - add to this your normal usage, and battery’s starting SOC (state of charge*), then plan for a day or two of minimal harvest..
* will require a Lithium capable battery meter like a Victron (smart shunt or BMV 12) or equivalent…
3 tons
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wa8yxm
Davison Michigan (East of Flint)
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ScottG wrote:It's going to depend A LOT on exactly what 12V fridge you have.
BINGO I've read the specs on several including both Dometic and NoCol.. er. Norcold
Now at one time (Do not know if they still do) They made what I call "Danfoss" class Compressor units (Danfoss is one of the companies that makes the compressors) if there is a proper name for that class
PLEASE: TELL ME
They draw (Door closed) less than 50 watts and work very well (I have a chest freezer.. my 2nd.. that uses that technology.. first one lasted from 2005 till last year)
Then I've seen some that use more traditional compressors and draw around 150-200 watts. (3-4 times the power) Door closed.
Door open you add in ye old light bulb. Or better yet Ye New Light Bulb (LED).
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times
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Fisherguy
Vancouver BC
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time2roll wrote:12v compressor fridge? Get the make and model #
Norcold N10DC
Norcold Link
* This post was
edited 12/24/22 10:56am by Fisherguy *
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