Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli
Seattle
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Joined: 04/04/2008
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New Toilet For The Truck Camper. OLD Toilet Flush Valve Broke. New Water Supply Line Too.
VIDEO Installing A New Thetford Toilet VIDEO
Several issues to overcome. Rant about quality at end.
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Bedlam
PNW
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Joined: 06/13/2012
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Typically the RV toilet seat can be replaced with a residential seat. I did not like the flex in my plastic seat and replaced it with a wooden one for under $10 at Walmart.
Add a stop or block under the pedal to limit travel. That should keep the flap from overextending and getting stuck.
* This post was
edited 01/27/23 11:32am by Bedlam *
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ScottG
Bothell Wa.
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Joined: 02/25/2005
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Good vid and nice work. Seems like no two toilets have the same connection location!
I always add an inline shut-off valve to my RV toilet. Then if the fill valve starts leaking you can at least keep using the commode and just shut it off between flushes (yes, it has happened to us).
It's also handy for throttling down the water flow when dry camping.
I too, replace the seat with a nicer, soft closing model.
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Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli
Seattle
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Joined: 04/04/2008
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Yes, I'm going to find a piece of plastic to act as a stop to the pedal. The inside e valve to the toilet or for that matter any location is a good idea. May swi g by the RV store in the AM and get one. I have an end cap that will go over the barb fitting assets in the video to cap the line and use the rest of the water system. It's something that would rarely be used. In my case, I could use it to extend the pipe which would allow me to cut off the scratched damaged that has a tiny leak. The valve would let me cut off enough that I would have unmolested pipe to attach to the fitting.
I'm also going to fit a piece of plastic under the seat at the back. There is toilet rim therethat can support the seat. I'm not certain a residential toilet seat can be altered to work since there is a big notched area preventing or making that option difficult. The support block should be fine.
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