schlep1967
Harrisburg, PA
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Joined: 12/08/2005
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JBarca, My phone number was in the first PM I sent you.Give me a call today when you get a chance.
2021 Chevy Silverado LTZ 3500 Diesel
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schlep1967
Harrisburg, PA
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I think I see the difference now between the bedroom wardrobe slide and the one you are having problems with. The wardrobe slide motor is installed at an angle with the motor lower than the gear. That gives the clearance for the adjustment bracket.
Since you can't really re-drill the mounting holes, I would suggest elongating the holes on the left side of the mounting bracket so you can slide the motor end down. That should give you the clearance you need.
Most likely you will have to elongate all but one of the holes.
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1995brave
San Antonio, TX
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Joined: 01/24/2006
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I looked at mine again and my motor sits lower. Just above the slide-out seal. I have a full wall slide so the cables tend to sag but they still don't hit the motor. Check with the trailer manufacture and see if there is enough support behind the motor to mount it lower.
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StirCrazy
Kamloops, BC, Canada
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Joined: 07/16/2003
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as long as all your pullys and such are good, I would remove some chain links. but I would check all the piviot points and anchor points first to make sure there isn't anything wrong there. it could be that who ever put it togeather just mounted stuff in slightly wrong places causeing excess cable or the cable streched a bit from use.
2014 F350 6.7 Platinum
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schlep1967
Harrisburg, PA
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StirCrazy wrote:as long as all your pullys and such are good, I would remove some chain links. but I would check all the piviot points and anchor points first to make sure there isn't anything wrong there. it could be that who ever put it togeather just mounted stuff in slightly wrong places causeing excess cable or the cable streched a bit from use.
Removing links won't change the relationship between the chain and the motor. And he will need the range of motion to move the slide all the way out/in.
On a short in length but deep slide the ends of the chain have to go past the motor.
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schlep1967
Harrisburg, PA
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Joined: 12/08/2005
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schlep1967 wrote:I think I see the difference now between the bedroom wardrobe slide and the one you are having problems with. The wardrobe slide motor is installed at an angle with the motor lower than the gear. That gives the clearance for the adjustment bracket.
Since you can't really re-drill the mounting holes, I would suggest elongating the holes on the left side of the mounting bracket so you can slide the motor end down. That should give you the clearance you need.
Most likely you will have to elongate all but one of the holes.
You may also be able to gain a little by doing the same thing with the pulleys on the left side of the slide. Elongate the holes and slide them up a little bit. If you can gain 1/8th inch on each end I bet you'll have the clearance you need.
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JBarca
Radnor, Ohio, USA
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Hi everyone,
First off, thanks to all who have responded. Please, keep the comments coming. This is just a mid-day break/update.
I called and talked with BAL tech support again this morning. He gave me the G4 Accu-slide mounting specs for the Corner Pulley Brackets (the top left and right cable pulleys on the wall) at how high above the rough opening they are supposed to be at. And he gave me the spec on the motor drive mounting angle. Yes, the motor end is supposed to be pointing downhill at a cant to help this IN cable block yoke crashing problem. This gear motor is mounted parallel to the slide opening aggravating the crash problem.
These are the G4 install instructions, just they lack the mounting specs of the corner pulleys and the motor height https://balrvproducts.com/wp-content/upl........eration/G4-Installation-Instructions.pdf
Thinking through all this for myself, I need to verify what is mounted correctly before adjusting anything to ensure the entire system result will come into proper alignment. I am fighting two issues in the big picture right now where I am at;
1. The crash at the gearmotor with the cable block yoke
2. All cable block yokes and individual cables are close to being totally out of adjustment. And the rear BTM OUT cable is maxed out of adjustment.
The way the system is mounted right now and acting up, it is like all eight cables are too long. This may be the symptom of not mounting the corner turn pulleys in the correct height relationship to the motor (they are too low). The system has a lot of adjustments if everything is mounted correctly. There is 2" total adjustment in the long center bolt for the cable block yokes, and 2" of adjustment in the cable ends themselves. Yet, all eight cables and cable yokes are close to maxed out. Ideally, when new, the system is adjusted close to mid-range of design adjustment or skewed toward min adjustment to leave extra room for chain and cable stretch. If the corner pulley brackets are mounted too low, say by 3/4 to 1", every cable will be 3/4 - 1" too long to accommodate the low-mounted corner pulleys. If the corner pulled is too low, this also affects the angle uphill the cable block yokes take to get over the Gearmotor sprocket aggravating the cable block yoke crash.
If you look at this picture on my first reply of the "as found", the rear slide end cable block/yoke is close to maxed out from the installation and the cables.
![[image]](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52662123860_16bb1d463b_b.jpg)
And here is the front end of the slide "as found." This end has some level of adjustment, but a lot was used up on the original install.
![[image]](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52662123825_ec45b60340_b.jpg)
While I know bolts loosen or tighten and rattle out of adjustment, in this case, they rattle loose, not tighter, against increasing pressure. Those 2 pics above seem to point to the system was not optimized in the right spot upon installation. Everything gets worse with time with chain and cable stretch.
I have another trailer to get done today and may not be back to this until tomorrow. But please keep the comments coming.
Thanks for the comments, and keep them coming. I will report back after I can get back into this camper.
John
John & Cindy
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
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schlep1967
Harrisburg, PA
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I think the pulleys are going to be your easiest gain on this. Just because of the hole setup on the brackets. You can move the brackets up so the bottom two holes on the outer edge line up with the top two holes and reinsert the bolts. Drill a new top hole and the two inside holes. From the pics that looks like at least 3/4 of an inch it would raise the cables.
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