mdsonofthesouth
Maryland
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blt2ski wrote:1000 lbs or less stuff in trailer....
Had a fellow moderator say in his new trailer he would load less than 750 lbs for wife and himself. I laughed, said 1000-1200 lbs. Not going to say who was correct. My family of 6 were typically 1500-3000 lbs in our 24' trailer, depending upon if it was a summer weekend, or a 3-4 day ski weekend. Let's not mention the day we got 20 miles down the hill, and had 6000 lbs of snow between the trailer and what was in the bed of the truck. Pass got shut down for 4-5 days, they lets us leave with an hour or two notice.
My 02 on what you will really pack! 1500-2000 would be more realistic.
Marty
Yeah I guess that makes sense. I have tried to purge over the years, but the front compartment with tools and such and the 2 propane do add up to alot. Inside is just sheets, blankets, 4 plates, 4 bowls, 4 sets of silverware and a few misc odds and ends(like dvds, dry goods). We dont pack too heavy.
Ill be honest I do need to weigh the camper and see the true weight Im hauling. I have towed more than its gross weight and it feels light in comparison to the heavier load so I venture to guess Im at 7-7.5k max (if we travel "wet"). But again I do need to get it on a scale to be sure.
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MitchF150
Puyallup, WA
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That's gonna be a lot of trailer for sure. I've got a 13 F150 EcoBoost with the "maxtow" option giving the truck a #7700 GVWR and #1900 payload.
I can tell you that I'm maxed out with a 26' #7000 GVWR trailer...
I do pack heavy, and it's only 2 of us, so my trailer does not need to be that big , but it's all up to what you feel comfortable with in the end.
Like has been said, you have towed with your truck before and know how it handles your last trailer. I think you'll be a bit surprised at it's actual weights on the new one when it's wet...
We all don't think we pack much.. But, how much do we all add over time?
Anyway, good luck with it and waiting 5 years to buy a new truck is gonna be a lot more $$ than just buying one now..
I'm not even looking at new trucks in my future.. I'll replace the engine, trans, whatever on my 13, as it'll be cheaper than even a used base model truck that's newer than what I got now and I don't plan on getting any larger in TT either.. But, that's just me and no growing family! ![[emoticon]](https://forums.goodsamclub.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
Good luck! Mitch
2013 F150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab Max Tow Egoboost 3.73 gears #7700 GVWR #1920 payload. 2019 Rockwood Mini Lite 2511S.
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Desert Captain
Payson
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The big issue for the OP is what payload does your truck have. As noted earlier Ram 1500's are notorious for limited payload. Crew Cabs and 4 X 4's are heavy options that subtract from the original factory payload numbers.
"The tow vehicle is a 2016 Ram 1500 that has upgraded shocks, springs(TufTruck XHD), sway bars, Helper airbags and E-Rated tires. I will be using a weight distributing hitch just like I do with my current 26Ft Shadow Cruiser and my vehicle does have a brake controller/tow package."
None of the above will change the trucks payload.
Shortly after buying my 2019 Honda Ridgeline a guy I know tried to take me to task... "Why didn't you buy a real truck?" he asked. When I asked for his definition of a "Real Truck" he proudly pointed to his Ram 1500. When asked what his payload was he got kind of sheepish and said he wasn't sure.
I had him open the drivers door and there on the sticker it showed his payload to be 977#. My Honda is 1,477#. Almost made him cry. The OP is going to run out of payload with this trailer before he loads any gear or passengers. The other concern IMHO is that much trailer will be a textbook example of the tail wagging the dog... and not in a good way.
As always... Opinions and YMMV. Good luck.
![[emoticon]](https://forums.goodsamclub.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/cool.gif "cool")
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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mdsonofthesouth wrote:Lantley wrote:A 33' long 9600# GVW TT will put an average 1/2 ton at its limits.
On a good day you may be on OK.
On a bad weather day you will be taking your chances.
Stay on the flats you maybe OK, go into the mountains and you are testing your limits.
I live in MD and I can travel North, south or east of Baltimore with ease however if you head west the equation/landscape changes quickly.
I always want my combo to be set up to travel with out limitations.
The combo you are considering will NOT be without limitations!
Yep sadly have lived here all my life. Doubt Ill pass much further west than Frederick to Brunswick area. Most of my driving would be to the Outer Banks, eastern shore, Central MD to NC maybe. I know until I get the 2500 Ill have limitations and will avoid Appalachia for sure! Heck I wouldn't want to go to the mountains without an exhaust brake no matter the size of my camper.
bikendan wrote:
You didn't post what the driver's door sticker says is the truck's payload capacity. 2016 Ram 1500s were notorious for poor payload capacities.
Figuring that having 1000lbs of axtra trai,er weight, when loaded for camping, 12% would mean a ballpark tongue weight of 984lbs. That goes against the payload number, then subtract the weights of everyone in the truck, any truck cargo/add-ons weight and 100lbs for the WDH. If there's any payload capacity left,you should be OK.
The 280BH is 7100-7200 dry, add ~1000lbs (probably will be much less) in "stuff" and then 13% tongue weight will be around 1100lbs. The kids, wife, dog, stuff and myself are ~540lbs. If I put the bikes and such on the back of the camper I should be around my payload capacity.
No matter how I slice it Im extremely close to my limits and the more I think about it the more I get uneasy with the proposition. Sad thing is my current RV looks like it will be in its last year before I have to do serious frame repairs or sell it if I can. If I get a camper I'm 5 years from a new truck and if I get a new truck Im 5 years away from getting a camper...unless I win the lottery.
Well, if you’re not comfortable you’re not comfortable.
But stop with the can’t afford a new truck thing. You sound like the rest of the people who pretend for comparisons sake that they need a new $80k diesel and then complain aboot the price.
I’m pretty sure an equal condition 3/4 ton gasser from the mid 2010s is worth about the same as your truck. Presto, bingo. You can turn your, marginal for the load, truck into a comparable one with much higher capacities for not much money out of pocket.
* This post was
edited 02/16/23 12:27pm by Grit dog *
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold
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MFL
Midwest
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"None of the above will change the trucks payload."
^^This is true, will not change the payload sticker.
The improvements made to OPs truck will improve handling and capability, of his truck, compared to stock setup.
Jerry
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mdsonofthesouth
Maryland
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MitchF150 wrote:That's gonna be a lot of trailer for sure. I've got a 13 F150 EcoBoost with the "maxtow" option giving the truck a #7700 GVWR and #1900 payload.
I can tell you that I'm maxed out with a 26' #7000 GVWR trailer...
I do pack heavy, and it's only 2 of us, so my trailer does not need to be that big , but it's all up to what you feel comfortable with in the end.
Like has been said, you have towed with your truck before and know how it handles your last trailer. I think you'll be a bit surprised at it's actual weights on the new one when it's wet...
We all don't think we pack much.. But, how much do we all add over time?
Anyway, good luck with it and waiting 5 years to buy a new truck is gonna be a lot more $$ than just buying one now..
I'm not even looking at new trucks in my future.. I'll replace the engine, trans, whatever on my 13, as it'll be cheaper than even a used base model truck that's newer than what I got now and I don't plan on getting any larger in TT either.. But, that's just me and no growing family!
Good luck! Mitch
I just replaced the parts I listed recently due to not being able to buy for 3 or 4 years. My preference would be to not buy a new truck but the one I have is limiting me from what I need for the family. My next truck will likely be what I have for many years (have had this one since 2017) if all goes as planned. I'm not waiting for the crazy to resolve itself, rather I just cannot financially swing it. I still have 3 or so years left on my tractor payment and cannot more forward til that is done.
As for cost, right now everything is so inflated that it should go down a little but I doubt very much. IT sure is hard to process the same truck I wanted in 2019 was 48 to 50k is now 75k+ not including markups and I'd have to wait forever to get it. But I feel prices will eventually normalize a bit especially given the repo market.
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mdsonofthesouth
Maryland
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Desert Captain wrote:The big issue for the OP is what payload does your truck have. As noted earlier Ram 1500's are notorious for limited payload. Crew Cabs and 4 X 4's are heavy options that subtract from the original factory payload numbers.
"The tow vehicle is a 2016 Ram 1500 that has upgraded shocks, springs(TufTruck XHD), sway bars, Helper airbags and E-Rated tires. I will be using a weight distributing hitch just like I do with my current 26Ft Shadow Cruiser and my vehicle does have a brake controller/tow package."
None of the above will change the trucks payload.
Shortly after buying my 2019 Honda Ridgeline a guy I know tried to take me to task... "Why didn't you buy a real truck?" he asked. When I asked for his definition of a "Real Truck" he proudly pointed to his Ram 1500. When asked what his payload was he got kind of sheepish and said he wasn't sure.
I had him open the drivers door and there on the sticker it showed his payload to be 977#. My Honda is 1,477#. Almost made him cry. The OP is going to run out of payload with this trailer before he loads any gear or passengers. The other concern IMHO is that much trailer will be a textbook example of the tail wagging the dog... and not in a good way.
As always... Opinions and YMMV. Good luck.
Not once did I state or even hint that the changes I made would up my payload or towing. As for Ram payloads its all in the options. You have a LOADED limited with 3.21 gears and your payload will be ****. The thing I will give you that Ram messes up concerning payload is you can have identical vehicles with the same exact options and changing the gear ratio ALONE can drop the payload significantly. Sure a lower gearing will FEEL better, but after all the front and rear ends I have serviced and rebuilt as a mechanic or shade tree there is no discernable difference to warrant the change other than speed of acceleration. But Im sure someone will disagree with that.
As far as numbers go I have NOT weighed my truck with camper, but I have weighed my truck alone with a load in the bed and "empty" at the dump so I know given the numbers I have on hand that my truck will be within those limits. The one change to my current way of loading for a trip to make it work numbers wise is to hitch my bikes to the camper rear and keep the bed empty. But as I stated above the more I contemplate the more I become uneasy about it all despite the numbers lining up.
Thank you for your post.
MFL wrote:"None of the above will change the trucks payload."
^^This is true, will not change the payload sticker.
The improvements made to OPs truck will improve handling and capability, of his truck, compared to stock setup.
Jerry
This is why I did them. Plain and simple I have 115k HARD miles and my suspension was worn out and now Ill have less sag allowing better front end dynamics when towing and hauling. Nothing more nothing less.
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APT
SE Michigan
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Joined: 06/09/2010
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Do not recommend.
I can show math that shows that you will probably exceed rear axle rating, GVWR, and maybe receiver rating. 7200 pounds dry, 8500 pounds loaded 1100 pounds of TW, family onboard and a bed full of camping gear, etc.
I can summarize the feedback from RV.net of owners that typically tow 8500 pounds with half ton trucks - not many are comfortable at 65mph. Light steering, wandering, wind and passing wind impacts.
The modifications you have made will improve the comfort level at or above any of the ratings I mentioned above, but that is hard to quantify. So that is a risk that is difficult for any of us to uniquely confirm with your exact combo of vehicle, trailer, WHD + adjustments, loading.
A & A parents of DD 2005, DS1 2007, DS2 2009
2011 Suburban 2500 6.0L 3.73 pulling 2011 Heartland North Trail 28BRS
2017 Subaru Outback 3.6R
2020 Chevrolet Bolt
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bikendan
Goodyear, Arizona
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mdson, is there a reason you haven't posted your actual door sticker payload capacity?
I'm in the same place as you. The DW wants a particular TT to replace our current TT. I'm up against similar numbers and have a F150 Ecoboost with Max Tow package.
It's 29ft long but is about 2000lbs heavier than the 25ft TT we have.
I'd like to upgrade to a 3/4 ton but now isn't a good time for that.
* This post was
edited 02/16/23 12:01pm by bikendan *
Dan- Firefighter, Retired">, Shawn- Musician/Entrepreneur">, Zoe- Faithful Golden Retriever(RIP">), 2014 Ford F150 3.5 EcoboostMax Tow pkg, 2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255 w/4pt Equalizer and 5 Mtn. bikes and 2 Road bikes
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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Now isn’t a good time to flat out buy something you don’t need, if not able to realize the value of something you already own, to offset the high cost with high return.
IE upgrading significantly will cost disproportionately more.
But has little to do with cost if one doesn’t have to buy “new” or significantly upgrade.
The whining about vehicles prices is warranted iMO but using it as an excuse is just lame.
You get more for your existing vehicle just like you pay more for a different one…..
But if you are selling a half ton, hurry up, they are leveling out and values aren’t as inflated as they have been. Easy to see new vehicle prices dropping on 1/2 tons but not on HDs yet.
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