oldave
Tx
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OutofTime wrote:I can check on this today. I have checked for vacuum leaks and did replace a few rotted out lines. I've also redone all the gaskets on the tbi, including the base plate gasket.
I have had success finding vacuum leaks by using a handheld propane torch that is not lit ( no fire ) and running the propane along any possible leak areas, RPMs will increase at a vacuum leak.
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allbrandauto
maryland
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the popping noise could be a worn camshaft exhaust lube very common would have to remove valve covers and check lift
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udidwht
Renton Highlands, Wa.
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There is a plethora of TBI info on the following site: http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/forumdisplay.php?10-GM-EFI-Systems
Found the following regarding fuel regulator spring identification...
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?3145-TBI-Fuel-Pumps-Specifications-and-Regulator-Springs!
1994 Fleetwood Southwind Storm
P-30 chassis 7.4L 454 TBI 58,301 miles and counting....(as of 06/08/19)
VIN# 1GBJP37N4R3314754
Flight System Generator man 360 (PM me)
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OutofTime
Florida
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Updates
After much sweating and swearing the water pump is off. Next step will be to pull the timing cover and check for a jumped tooth and/or sloppy chain.
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udidwht
Renton Highlands, Wa.
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OutofTime wrote:Updates
After much sweating and swearing the water pump is off. Next step will be to pull the timing cover and check for a jumped tooth and/or sloppy chain.
There is a cross member underneath that can be removed for easier access to front of engine. This is the cross member to remove...
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f65/what-did-you-do-to-your-old-rv-today-133779-444.html#post5713099
Once out it gives this access...
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f65/what-did-you-do-to-your-old-rv-today-133779-443.html#post5712066
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OutofTime
Florida
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udidwht wrote:OutofTime wrote:Updates
After much sweating and swearing the water pump is off. Next step will be to pull the timing cover and check for a jumped tooth and/or sloppy chain.
There is a cross member underneath that can be removed for easier access to front of engine. This is the cross member to remove...
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f65/what-did-you-do-to-your-old-rv-today-133779-444.html#post5713099
Once out it gives this access...
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f65/what-did-you-do-to-your-old-rv-today-133779-443.html#post5712066
I pulled that crossmember at the very beginning so I could get clear access to the 5pm timing marks. I've also had the lower shroud dropped. Now I have the upper shroud off as well. A decent amount of real estate to get the timing cover off.
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Flyfisherman128
Broadalbin, NY
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So at the beginning of the thread you said you got nothing.. nothing as far as the motor goes or nothing on your timing light.. then further down the thread you said it kicks but won't run.. that sounds like a bad distributor module.. could be lots of other things but that's cheap and easy to change
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OutofTime
Florida
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Flyfisherman128 wrote:So at the beginning of the thread you said you got nothing.. nothing as far as the motor goes or nothing on your timing light.. then further down the thread you said it kicks but won't run.. that sounds like a bad distributor module.. could be lots of other things but that's cheap and easy to change
I know this thread is a bit of a saga at this point ![[emoticon]](https://forums.goodsamclub.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile") . Over the course of this process I have replaced the entire ignition system with brand new ACDelco parts. It will now start at the bump of a key. However I need to do further testing with the engine warmed up, which currently I can't do because the water pump bearings are completely toast. That's why I'm pulling the pump. Since the pump is out of the way it isn't that much more effort to pull the timing cover and check for a jumped chain or a sloppy one, which could very well be why the engine is still not running right.
To be clear, all the work I've done is making it run better, but it's not right.
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udidwht
Renton Highlands, Wa.
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OutofTime wrote:Flyfisherman128 wrote:So at the beginning of the thread you said you got nothing.. nothing as far as the motor goes or nothing on your timing light.. then further down the thread you said it kicks but won't run.. that sounds like a bad distributor module.. could be lots of other things but that's cheap and easy to change
I know this thread is a bit of a saga at this point . Over the course of this process I have replaced the entire ignition system with brand new ACDelco parts. It will now start at the bump of a key. However I need to do further testing with the engine warmed up, which currently I can't do because the water pump bearings are completely toast. That's why I'm pulling the pump. Since the pump is out of the way it isn't that much more effort to pull the timing cover and check for a jumped chain or a sloppy one, which could very well be why the engine is still not running right.
To be clear, all the work I've done is making it run better, but it's not right.
If you do the water pump don't forget to replace the clutch fan as well. With north of 200K on the engine the timing chain very well may be the issue with the miss in the ignition system.
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OutofTime
Florida
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Fan clutch has already been swapped as part of doing the water pump. Plan is to replace pump, hoses, fan clutch and then do a flush with water, then fill with fresh coolant. That will stop the coolant leaks. Eventually the hydroboost and the steering lines will need to be replaced. Probably some brake lines as well. Only then will I not get covered in grease every time I poke under the front.
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