Cptnvideo
Arizona - most of the time
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Joined: 11/05/2006
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3 tons is correct. To add, 48 volt systems in a house make total sense. But not in a RV that comes equipped with 12 VDC components designed to run off 1 or 2 batteries.
The OP wants 1500 watts solar and 12 kwh batteries, which is similar to what I have. My 12 volt system has a grand total of 16 feet of 4-0 wire. So I don't see wire size/cost to be the issue as some on here do. And no 48-12 or 120-12 converter to overload or fail.
Bill & Linda
Arizona
2019 Dodge Ram Laramie 3500 dually 4x4 diesel
Hensley Trailer Saver BD5 hitch
2022 Grand Design Solitude 378MBS
1600 watts solar, Victron 150/100 MPPT controller, GoPower 3kw inverter/charger, 5 SOK 206AH LiFePo4 batteries for 1030 ah
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2oldman
NM
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Cptnvideo wrote:3 tons is correct. I don't know why one is correct and others 'incorrect.' If one wants a higher voltage system, who cares?
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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2oldman wrote:Cptnvideo wrote:3 tons is correct. I don't know why one is correct and others 'incorrect.' If one wants a higher voltage system, who cares?
Since you can’t seem to take no for an answer, I’ll try to explain this with an elementary comparison.
First, you’re right, there is nothing fundamentally “incorrect” here. However most (can’t say all since the detractors such as yourself are seemingly pushing for a solution to a non existent issue…a few ft of larger gauge wire…lol).
But there is absolutely the ability to take the “long way” around the block so to speak. And also the more expensive way…
Example.
If you can drive from point a to point b on a flat straight road for 10 miles in your leaf, but instead you choose to take your diesel truck and take the 30 mile route to point b which includes some curvy roads and significant elevation changes, it’s not the “wrong” way, it’s just not the most cost effective or efficient way.
And as most of us aren’t wiping out butts and kindling campfires with Benjamin’s, then it would seem to make sense to not only, NOT take the long way around, which is more costly upfront, but also achieve the same goal by the simplest means possible as well as preserving future value by not doing something out of the box that is totally unnecessary.
Hope this helps! Cheers!
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold
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Cptnvideo
Arizona - most of the time
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Old man, I didn't say anyone was incorrect. If you're quoting me, please quote all of the post.
I don't see any benefit to adding components (that can possibly fail) to convert back to 12 volts when a 12 volt system is adequate for what the OP is trying to do.
My 12 volt setup works very well in my 50 amp RV and the OP is buying a 30 amp RV.
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2oldman
NM
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Cptnvideo wrote:I don't see any benefit to adding components (that can possibly fail) to convert back to 12 volts when a 12 volt system is adequate for what the OP is trying to do. I don't know what the OP is trying to do. He's been a bit vague.
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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Cptnvideo wrote:Old man, I didn't say anyone was incorrect. If you're quoting me, please quote all of the post.
I don't see any benefit to adding components (that can possibly fail) to convert back to 12 volts when a 12 volt system is adequate for what the OP is trying to do.
My 12 volt setup works very well in my 50 amp RV and the OP is buying a 30 amp RV.
I’m with ya…
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Cptnvideo
Arizona - most of the time
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From what I have interpreted, he wants a helluva solar setup for a 30 amp RV and he has heard of 24 & 48 volt systems.
While there are advantages to those systems, I just don't think they would apply in his case.
My limitation is my 3kw inverter output. My 12 volt batteries can supply more than the current the inverter needs to produce 25 amps.
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Cptnvideo,
Charge controllers are more efficient and cheaper at 48 volts.
Inverters are more efficient at 48 volts.
Inverter / chargers are more efficient at 48 volts.
At about 600 watts of solar, MPPT controllers start looking extremely attractive.
For the OP with 2.5 times that amount it is a no brainer.
If a dc 48 to dc 12 converter failed, the OP could easily reconnect the OEM converter to power 12 volt loads. In my case, that is exactly what I did when my Magnum inverter/charger decided to burn up.
Even a tiny 12 volt battery would be enough to supplement the OEM converter for use when operating slides.
The chances of both the converter and the dc to dc device failing at the same time is pretty small.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
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3 tons
NV.
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I would only add that for those worried about 12v voltage sag ‘when under a SUDDEN HEAVY load’, Lithium is your battery of choice…Example, a lone Aims 100a/hr Li is capable of 200a for up to 10 sec - Because of this (from only one battery !!), and the relatively stable voltage under load, it’s a bit of a stretch to imagine a real world amperage deficit scenario (despite PT’s belabored ‘fear’ campaign - lol)…
3 tons
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TurnThePage
North ID
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2oldman wrote:Cptnvideo wrote:I don't see any benefit to adding components (that can possibly fail) to convert back to 12 volts when a 12 volt system is adequate for what the OP is trying to do. I don't know what the OP is trying to do. He's been a bit vague.
Sorry. Don't mean to be vague. I'm closing in on retirement, and intend to adventure a LOT. I'm considering adding a small (8-9000 BTU) mini-split, which should run quite nicely on the system I'm planning. When I started this post, I wasn't specific about my needs, I just wanted other points of view on the various options. I'm still leaning toward keeping it 12v, but am also learning along the way. I could easily change my mind before I've even acquired a single component. This discussion is probably as good as I've seen about this subject. Thank you all for that.
2015 Ram 1500
2022 Grand Design Imagine XLS 22RBE
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