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 > Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

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SJ-Chris

San Jose, Ca

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Posted: 03/04/21 11:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Front seat covers for a Cruise America Majestic.....

I have had 4 different RVs. Each time in the past I have ever wanted to put seat covers over the front seats it has always been a struggle to find ones that fit just right. Much harder than you might think!

Well, I wanted to share some "Cruise America RV" info that some of you might find helpful if you want to do something about your front seats. I have two 2015 Majestic 28a RVs. I wanted to get seat covers for one of them because the front seats (driver and passenger) were looking a little worn. I found the absolute PERFECT fit. Here it is:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084WVK4DD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now the strange thing is that the words in the ad say "Not for RV". But in looking at the photos and the description it looked identical to the seats that were in my Majestic 28a. I took a chance and ordered them. Much to my surprise....they fit like an absolute glove. In fact, I cannot imagine a seat cover fitting any better.

So if you happen to be thinking about seat covers and the photo in that link look like your front seats, give it a shot.

Just trying to pass along any good info I can to fellow Cruise America RV owners.

Enjoy!
Chris


San Jose, CA
Own two 2015 Thor Majestic 28a Class C RVs

Booner

Boonville, MO

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Posted: 03/08/21 11:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Jecraig4734 wrote:

There are two sets of these wires. They each go to the back corners of the rv. Could they be for the taillights/turnsignals? Why would there be three in a set?


Where are these wires you speak of Located?
On my unit (the 25 foot model), the wires for the tail lights run along the frame on the underside of the unit in a sheathed bundle. From this bundle comes four wires to each corner of the rv; one for the running light, one for the stop light and one for the turn signal. The forth wire is for the ground. You may not have the fourth wire as the light fixture itself may be grounded to the frame.

Jecraig4734

Illinois

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Posted: 03/09/21 04:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

They ran along the top of the fresh water tank. They ended being the wires for the cargo lights in the basement. I couldn't use them be a use the ran from the switch to the other light, so they would only work work if the switch was on.

Booner

Boonville, MO

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Posted: 03/10/21 02:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Jecraig4734 wrote:

They ran along the top of the fresh water tank. They ended being the wires for the cargo lights in the basement. I couldn't use them be a use the ran from the switch to the other light, so they would only work work if the switch was on.


OK then.
Read my post to you at the bottom of page 148 which will tell you how to wire something using the interior lighting circuit.
I'm assuming you have a light fixture under the cabinets that are over your bed. This 12V circuit is always hot and all you have to do is splice into it before the light switch. The wire that goes to the switch will be the hot wire.
-or-
Wait a day or two and I'll take some pictures of how I wired in a USB outlet by my bed using the light circuit. I want to charge my phone at night while I listen to podcasts.

You never responded to my question as to what you need the new outlet for. Something like a USB plug, or perhaps a radio isn't that much of a extra-load for the circuit. If you want to plug in an electric blanket or coffee pot-that may be too much and they should have their own circuit.

TwistedGray

Monterey Bay, CA

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Posted: 03/10/21 02:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

And, now we have power!

I decided not to add a secondary battery or a solar system but to instead just connect to the main coach battery. I have an inverter mounted under the seat and connected to the coach battery. I have a remote power switch and a voltmeter (connected to the coach battery through the inverter) mounted just behind the back cushion to the black plastic cover, and the surge protector cable is ran through the seat belt slot.

I posted some pictures in the Facebook Group "Cruise America 19G Owners" - https://www.facebook.com/groups/402432987512698/.

Total cost was $275 to have access to power outlets WITHOUT having to run the generator or be connected to shore power. Pretty awesome to sit there with my phone connected, laptop connected, heated throw on high and watch the voltage drop 0.1 over the course of like four hours : )

https://www.facebook.com/groups/402432987512698/

Booner

Boonville, MO

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Posted: 03/10/21 05:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

TwistedGray wrote:

And, now we have power!

I decided not to add a secondary battery or a solar system but to instead just connect to the main coach battery. I have an inverter mounted under the seat and connected to the coach battery. I have a remote power switch and a voltmeter (connected to the coach battery through the inverter) mounted just behind the back cushion to the black plastic cover, and the surge protector cable is ran through the seat belt slot.

I posted some pictures in the Facebook Group "Cruise America 19G Owners" - https://www.facebook.com/groups/402432987512698/.

Total cost was $275 to have access to power outlets WITHOUT having to run the generator or be connected to shore power. Pretty awesome to sit there with my phone connected, laptop connected, heated throw on high and watch the voltage drop 0.1 over the course of like four hours : )

https://www.facebook.com/groups/402432987512698/


I'm not a Facebook member and it's a private group so I can't look at what you've done, so what's the wattage of your inverter?

I've got two inverters that I could put in my rv, a 800 watt and a 1800 watt. I think I'll do the 800 only so I'm not putting too much stress on my house battery. Later on this spring I'll figure out how to add an additional battery and put about 150 watt solar panel on the roof.

TwistedGray

Monterey Bay, CA

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Posted: 03/11/21 09:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Booner wrote:

I'm not a Facebook member and it's a private group so I can't look at what you've done, so what's the wattage of your inverter?

I've got two inverters that I could put in my rv, a 800 watt and a 1800 watt. I think I'll do the 800 only so I'm not putting too much stress on my house battery. Later on this spring I'll figure out how to add an additional battery and put about 150 watt solar panel on the roof.


That was my fault when creating the Facebook group; I wanted to keep it private for the security of individuals. With that said, I see your point for those without Facebook. Unfortunately I cannot change the group to PUBLIC - Facebook precaution (once private, always private).

With that said...here are some photos.

Just shows the surge protector. The cable goes through the seat belt slot, so there's not modification needed.
[image]

I attached the remote on/off switch for the inverter and the voltmeter to the back of the plastic piece here. It's cracked, and CA has sent a replacement, so this allowed me to check fitment, etc, before committing. Also, I was not interested in having the outlets under the dinette area or off to the side in the hallway.
[image]

The inverter and associated cables - the only cable we had to modify was the battery cable. Based on someone else's recommendation we used heavy duty jumper cables, snipped the ends, and wired appropriate connectors. That cable was an absolute overkill and hard to work with. Anyways, it worked either way.
[image]
[image]

I went with this power inverter because I will use it to boil water with my tea kettle, and that runs at 1500 watts for a brief period. I wanted some security and for the power inverter to be solid without being concerned in the future if I did ever add a secondary battery.

You can easily pull the cables from the primary coach battery and wire up a battery here as well (maybe a 6v...a 12v would not fit without modification to the seat belt cage/harness.

Happy to provide Amazon links, but you should be able to find everything pretty easily - inverter, voltmeter, surge protector, power strip, and I bought the expanding foam and battery hardware (connectors to attach to the battery posts) from the local hardware store. Everything else (screws, wood) was scrap from the house/garage.

MtnBikeMarty

phoenix, az

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Posted: 03/11/21 02:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My wife wants to paint the interior of our CA to cover up the faux wood paneling and brighten up the inside, anybody have any suggestions on type of paint?
MtnBikeMarty

TwistedGray

Monterey Bay, CA

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Posted: 03/11/21 07:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MtnBikeMarty wrote:

My wife wants to paint the interior of our CA to cover up the faux wood paneling and brighten up the inside, anybody have any suggestions on type of paint?
MtnBikeMarty


Hey Marty,

This was the first project that I undertook. You should be fine with any paint and primer combo. It is gonna be an exhaustive process because there are so many corners, so many things to accidentally paint. PREPARATION is obviously key OR take the 5ft approach : )

One word of advice - do not bother to remove the wallpaper (just sand it a bit to provide a better surface to adhere the paint to).

Otherwise, be prepared to learn a few interesting things along the way such as the number of different/random screws used throughout or find multiple holes for one thing (ie: they, whoever they is in this story, screwed new holes to re-mount things rather than using existing holes...as far as filing those old holes, nah...just leave em was their attitude. So, I filled in probably a dozen or so holes.

Examples include (on mine, 19G): the mount for the dinette on the wall that takes it from dining table to bed was removed at some point, adjusted, and reinstalled about a half inch away. Someone made a mistake at some point and there were a complete batch of holes documenting that.

I found similar situations with almost all of the curtain rods, strap mounts, etc. I don't know how many different screws (different heads) I found either of varying lengths, too, despite them being for the same application. I convinced CA to send me a box of screws though, so that was nice...and I have now decided I will only use square headed screws. (Why are we using Phillips and flat head when such a better solution exists? (I'll thank CA for that enlightenment.)

In short, be prepared for a project that is not as simple as it is in your home ... BUT I will say this, it completely changed the look and feel of the RV. It now looks more like a studio, apartment, home, etc.

ps: two coats may fly, three is better! I have had a mind to remove all the cabinetry to do another coat on them, but I really don't want to spend another evening with a paintbrush in my hand.

Here is an example of the transformation. I have a few videos on the Facebook page I linked before, and I'm hopefully going to turn it into a public page so you can easily view the videos (fyi).

[image]

MtnBikeMarty

phoenix, az

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Posted: 03/11/21 08:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

TwistedGray wrote:

MtnBikeMarty wrote:

My wife wants to paint the interior of our CA to cover up the faux wood paneling and brighten up the inside, anybody have any suggestions on type of paint?
MtnBikeMarty


Hey Marty,

This was the first project that I undertook. You should be fine with any paint and primer combo. It is gonna be an exhaustive process because there are so many corners, so many things to accidentally paint. PREPARATION is obviously key OR take the 5ft approach : )

One word of advice - do not bother to remove the wallpaper (just sand it a bit to provide a better surface to adhere the paint to).

Otherwise, be prepared to learn a few interesting things along the way such as the number of different/random screws used throughout or find multiple holes for one thing (ie: they, whoever they is in this story, screwed new holes to re-mount things rather than using existing holes...as far as filing those old holes, nah...just leave em was their attitude. So, I filled in probably a dozen or so holes.

Examples include (on mine, 19G): the mount for the dinette on the wall that takes it from dining table to bed was removed at some point, adjusted, and reinstalled about a half inch away. Someone made a mistake at some point and there were a complete batch of holes documenting that.

I found similar situations with almost all of the curtain rods, strap mounts, etc. I don't know how many different screws (different heads) I found either of varying lengths, too, despite them being for the same application. I convinced CA to send me a box of screws though, so that was nice...and I have now decided I will only use square headed screws. (Why are we using Phillips and flat head when such a better solution exists? (I'll thank CA for that enlightenment.)

In short, be prepared for a project that is not as simple as it is in your home ... BUT I will say this, it completely changed the look and feel of the RV. It now looks more like a studio, apartment, home, etc.

ps: two coats may fly, three is better! I have had a mind to remove all the cabinetry to do another coat on them, but I really don't want to spend another evening with a paintbrush in my hand.

Here is an example of the transformation. I have a few videos on the Facebook page I linked before, and I'm hopefully going to turn it into a public page so you can easily view the videos (fyi).

[image]


Thanks TwistedGray! BTW your interior looks great now. And just what we want to do...brighten up the inside.
Thanks again. MtnBikeMarty

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