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Air bags how to use them

rtaylor0830
Explorer
Explorer
I am thinking of putting airbags on my 2015 f350 it rides fine but it squats when I let the weight of the toyhauler. My question is how much air needs to be put in and how hard are they to install. Also when you get to a campsite do you need to let the air out and refill them after hooking back up to leave. Will a small compressor work for this. I don't want the onboard compressor.
24 REPLIES 24

VernDiesel
Explorer
Explorer
If you work with different weight trailers and have ever used good axle to frame bags especially on rough roads you won't even re sell your old Timbren bump stops. You will dispose of them so as not to do the dis service to the next guy.

I know if a guy has a problem and finds a solution it's great until compared to another solution that is much better. I mean somebody still thinks a block of wood under his springs is a great solution and he could be correct to a point. And it's true the block of wood would never have an air leak.

Working with a rather soft coil spring as opposed to a stick & slide leaf spring makes this even more apparent.
Transportr TT & boats RAM EconoDiesel Factory TBC, Tow mirrors, Hitch camera, Axle to frame air bags, Tune w turbo brake, Max tow 9,200 CGAR 7,800 CVWR 15,950 axle weights 3,340 steer 2,260 drive Truck pushed head gasket at 371k has original trans at 500k

IdaD
Explorer
Explorer
Look into Timbrens, OP. No fuss whatsoever and they work great.
2015 Cummins Ram 4wd CC/SB

Towin_Toys
Explorer
Explorer
mkirsch wrote:
My understanding is that proper airbag use is to level the truck, removing the rear end sag, not bringing it back to full unloaded ride height.

At full unloaded height the bags will be taking all of the load, and the springs will be taking none, causing a poor ride at the very least.


You are correct, at least as to my experience. I don't run mine back up to full unloaded ride height.....too stiff and doesn't handle as well as when it is somewhere between unloaded height and level. It all depends on my total weight and and tongue weight which varies by trip depending on how much fresh water I have, which toy is loaded, etc.

Definitely have both sides plumbed separately unless you like extra body roll and sway. Or do what I did and plumb separately then add HD Helwig sway bars front and rear. Then it will handle like a slot car.
KMO
'17 Chevy Silverado High Country 2500 HD Duramax 4x4 CC
'18 Northwood Desert Fox Toy Hauler
'16 Polaris RzR 900
'11 KTM 990 Adventure
'06 Softail Deuce 98"
'08 KTM 300 XC-W(e)

1stgenfarmboy
Explorer
Explorer
I don't know if anyone said this but if you want to control sway they need to be plumbed separate so the air don't squish "transfer" from one side to the other.

I had them on my 1 ton when i had a truck camper and it did help but made the truck ride very harsh.
1993 Dodge W350 Cummins with all the goodies
2014 Ram 1500 Laramie Longhorn 2wd 395hp
2017 Forest River Surveyor 243 RBS
2001 Super Sherpa & 2012 DL650A go along also

cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
mkirsch wrote:
My understanding is that proper airbag use is to level the truck, removing the rear end sag, not bringing it back to full unloaded ride height.

At full unloaded height the bags will be taking all of the load, and the springs will be taking none, causing a poor ride at the very least.



I keep reading bring it back to stock height when loaded with the airbags, not sure mine are capable of that. They are 5000 lb. capacity with the weight of truck ,plus the pin weight, I can't see them being able to handle the entire weight. The springs still would be bearing some of the weight also. Granted they certainly would not have to work as hard, but not working at all is doubtful in my mind.

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
My understanding is that proper airbag use is to level the truck, removing the rear end sag, not bringing it back to full unloaded ride height.

At full unloaded height the bags will be taking all of the load, and the springs will be taking none, causing a poor ride at the very least.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
AIR BAGS: HOW TO USE THEM

Towin_Toys
Explorer
Explorer
I have the Air Lift with the internal bump stop along with the onboard air compressor with the wireless control. 55#'s of air when fully loaded (full water, fuel, toys, etc), and 45 to 50#'s on the return trip after dumping the majority of the tanks. I love the compressor and the wireless control. So quick and easy.
KMO
'17 Chevy Silverado High Country 2500 HD Duramax 4x4 CC
'18 Northwood Desert Fox Toy Hauler
'16 Polaris RzR 900
'11 KTM 990 Adventure
'06 Softail Deuce 98"
'08 KTM 300 XC-W(e)

cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
Willcamp4 wrote:
I should point out that I have not used the Firestones, but a friend of mine swears by them. With that said, I have had two Ford trucks and installed the Air Lift systems on both. With both I also used the systems without the on-board compressors, opting to adjust the air levels with an outside air pump. My advice...use the on-board compressor. I have used both the Air Lift compressors with the plumbing that runs into the cab and the new WirelessOne system. The older style worked well and I had it set up as the dual system. The WirelessOne system is plumbed so both bags have the same air pressure.
Having used those systems as described I have two comments. One is that unless I was carrying a top heavy load like a Cabover camper I like the WirelessOne system. It's a slightly easier install and works great. Secondly, having the on-board compressor is a great feature that makes it a breeze to adjust, without even having to stop. Also, you don't have to get out pumps or stop at various locations to make adjustments. Along the same lines, the final selling point for each was having to adjust the air pressure at a gas station, and the pressure gage/air fitting tore the Schrader valve out.

Adjusting the pressure to be used is simple and only requires a measuring tape. Measure the height of a point above the ground at the rear of the vehicle when unloaded. Then hook up the trailer to the fully loaded vehicle. Add air to the air bag system until the height at the point previously measured to is the same. Enjoy and you will also love the system. Expect it to take longer to install than those who have cool tools like vehicle lifts. It is always slower to do it laying on the ground.


I was agreeing with you right up to the point of the measuring tape. I don't concern myself at all with whether I am back to the unloaded height. The way these new trucks are setup, its not necessary to get back up to the unloaded height.

IMO if the truck is sitting level, then there is really no need to have airbags, if when loaded ,and the rear is sagging ,then air bags are needed to at least get to level, no need to get the rear riding higher then the front when loaded. Level is good enough.

Willcamp4
Explorer
Explorer
I should point out that I have not used the Firestones, but a friend of mine swears by them. With that said, I have had two Ford trucks and installed the Air Lift systems on both. With both I also used the systems without the on-board compressors, opting to adjust the air levels with an outside air pump. My advice...use the on-board compressor. I have used both the Air Lift compressors with the plumbing that runs into the cab and the new WirelessOne system. The older style worked well and I had it set up as the dual system. The WirelessOne system is plumbed so both bags have the same air pressure.
Having used those systems as described I have two comments. One is that unless I was carrying a top heavy load like a Cabover camper I like the WirelessOne system. It's a slightly easier install and works great. Secondly, having the on-board compressor is a great feature that makes it a breeze to adjust, without even having to stop. Also, you don't have to get out pumps or stop at various locations to make adjustments. Along the same lines, the final selling point for each was having to adjust the air pressure at a gas station, and the pressure gage/air fitting tore the Schrader valve out.

Adjusting the pressure to be used is simple and only requires a measuring tape. Measure the height of a point above the ground at the rear of the vehicle when unloaded. Then hook up the trailer to the fully loaded vehicle. Add air to the air bag system until the height at the point previously measured to is the same. Enjoy and you will also love the system. Expect it to take longer to install than those who have cool tools like vehicle lifts. It is always slower to do it laying on the ground.
Willcamp4
2012 Ford F-250 Super Duty, Crew Cab, Lariat, 6.7L PSTD, Air Lift rear suspension.
Alpenlite Valhalla Limited Fifth Wheel, two Solar panels, four six-volt batteries, two Honda EU2000i generators

cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
nremtp143 wrote:
I have had airbags on both of my last two duallies and it makes a huge difference in ride quality on rough roads. I have Firestone bags as they were the cheapest at Summit Racing when I bought them in '10. After a few trips with them and the bicycle/foot pump, I bought a Viair 10007 onboard air system with the Firestone dual pneumatic gauges and haven't looked back. I also plumbed in an air coupler underneath the passenger side rear door with a ball valve so I can air up tires for the rig, bicycles or pin box with no problem. It is an expense, but after seeing all of the manifold troubles with the wireless one, I went with this setup. Keep in mind that MANY people still have no trouble with the wireless one. I've used this same system on two different trucks as I made it where I can remove it pretty easily.



3 years now with the AirLift airbags with the internal jounce ,and wireless air system. To date has been flawless. Reading reviews there were issues with the wireless, but that seemed to have been ironed out.

I have had both types of air system, by far the best has been wireless for me. Ease of use, ease of installation etc. It just makes sense to have onboard air, you found out like me, its not very user friendly to do the manual thing, plus the air available for other applications.

nremtp143
Explorer
Explorer
I have had airbags on both of my last two duallies and it makes a huge difference in ride quality on rough roads. I have Firestone bags as they were the cheapest at Summit Racing when I bought them in '10. After a few trips with them and the bicycle/foot pump, I bought a Viair 10007 onboard air system with the Firestone dual pneumatic gauges and haven't looked back. I also plumbed in an air coupler underneath the passenger side rear door with a ball valve so I can air up tires for the rig, bicycles or pin box with no problem. It is an expense, but after seeing all of the manifold troubles with the wireless one, I went with this setup. Keep in mind that MANY people still have no trouble with the wireless one. I've used this same system on two different trucks as I made it where I can remove it pretty easily.
2016 Montana 3790RD, Legacy Edition, G614s, TST TPMS
2008 Thor Vortex 26FS
2013 F350 DRW 6.7L 4x4, Edge CTS, B&W Companion, Viair 10007 Air System, Firestone Air Bags
2001 Excursion Limited 7.3L 4x4, V/B Springs
2001 Silverado 3500 DRW CCLB 8.1L/Allison 4x4

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
I think that the Firestone bags are a lot easier to install on a Ford than the Air-Lift. There is a bolt at the top that can be a pain.

mtofell1
Explorer
Explorer
Great info so far - I love my Firestone's. I usually run with 40-50# in them with an 11K 5th wheel. I had the same setup without them and it wasn't terrible. The bags just help stiffen up the "hinge" between the truck and trailer. You'll really like it better going over bumps and rolling sections of road. And, of course, it brings the back of the truck back to level.