Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Class C Motorhomes: Steel vs Aluminum Wheels
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 > Steel vs Aluminum Wheels

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bobndot

USA

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Posted: 02/24/19 10:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ron, Tnx for that info.

Slowmover

Fort Worth, TX

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Posted: 04/26/19 04:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

CENTRAMATIC balancers all around. (BALANCE MASTER nicer yet). Quite common now in Class 8. My 579 Pete has them at every position. The shop at Alvarado, TX is great to deal with. (And my 35’ Silver Streak is so equipped).

Have a look at STENGEL BROTHRS “Wheel Centering Tools”. Even if you have to buy your own, reducing Vibration is worth every effort. Research as a topic in big truck resources.

With whatever you all have been using in MOHO-land to keep duals at same pressure, such as CROSSFIRE.

I’d imagine Roger Marble has ideas.


1990 35' SILVER STREAK Sterling, 9k GVWR
2004 DODGE RAM 2WD 305/555 ISB, QC SRW LB NV-5600, 9k GVWR
Hensley Arrow; 11-cpm solo, 17-cpm towing fuel cost

Gjac

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Posted: 04/27/19 08:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

To me the main advantage that has not been mentioned yet is the manufacturing process and tolerance. The steel wheels are stamped in a die and may be with in .030 of an inch. The Al wheels either cast or forged are machined within .005. This makes for a wheel that is more accurate and easier to balance at high speed using less weight. Having said that, having hit a big pothole with mine it is easier to straighten a steel wheel with a hammer without cracking the wheel because the steel is more ductile that a cast Al wheel which is more likely to crack. The forged Al is stronger than cast and more ductile than cast but not as dutile as the stamped steel. The Al wheels look nicer but for me when I consider the cost vs performance benefit I would stay with the steel wheels.

Slowmover

Fort Worth, TX

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Posted: 04/28/19 06:20am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gjac wrote:

To me the main advantage that has not been mentioned yet is the manufacturing process and tolerance. The steel wheels are stamped in a die and may be with in .030 of an inch. The Al wheels either cast or forged are machined within .005. This makes for a wheel that is more accurate and easier to balance at high speed using less weight. Having said that, having hit a big pothole with mine it is easier to straighten a steel wheel with a hammer without cracking the wheel because the steel is more ductile that a cast Al wheel which is more likely to crack. The forged Al is stronger than cast and more ductile than cast but not as dutile as the stamped steel. The Al wheels look nicer but for me when I consider the cost vs performance benefit I would stay with the steel wheels.


Steel wheels have become rare in Class 8. They don’t pay.

time2roll

Southern California

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Posted: 04/28/19 09:38am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ronfisherman wrote:

Here is picture of a cracked aluminum wheel.
[image]
Tire was still inflated. Wheel had to be replaced.
My MH had Aluminum wheels. Lot less problems than SS liners.
I have had a steel wheel crack and leaking air. Was glad to then justify moving to aluminum.


2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
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