Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Class A Motorhomes: Electrical issue (AC Power)
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 > Electrical issue (AC Power)

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cavie

Port Charlotte Fl/ Hindsdale MA

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Posted: 04/28/19 10:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OP has already use a tester inside in post #1

* This post was edited 04/28/19 10:30pm by cavie *


2011 Keystone Sprinter 323BHS. Retired Master Electrician. Retired Building Inspector.

All Motor Homes are RV's. All RV's are not Motor Homes.

time2roll

Southern California

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Posted: 04/28/19 10:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

cavie wrote:

OP has already done that in post #1
Missed it.

Yes the OP needs to correct the cord connections that were probably repaired incorrectly. If this seems scary then find someone that actually knows the difference between hot and neutral for standard home wiring.


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D.E.Bishop

Eagle Rock, CA

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Posted: 04/28/19 11:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Racer-X, with the extension cord disconnected from the RV's power cord, disassemble the male end of the cord. The cord should be a 10-3 or three wires of #10 gauge. The wires should be covered with black, white and green insulation. The black wire should go to a screw in the male plug that is brass in color, the white to a screw that is silver in color and the green should go to a green colored screw.

If everything is good so far, open the box that is permanently mounted to the cabinet wall and which the power cord is attached. The wires in there should be hooked up color to color. If they are, hire a mobile repair guy because you're headed into the ATS or Automatic Transfer Switch and you don't want to go there.

All this can be searched for and followed on your search engine and on YouTube if you would feel better seeing a close up picture of the terminals and wires. It's not, I repeat, not, at all dangerous if the 120 vac is disconnected.

Let us know what you find, Okay?

PS: When you have the plug and the junction box open, check that all connections are tight.


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Racer-X-

North Georgia, USA

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Posted: 04/29/19 09:33am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I believe the cord is molded at the plug end.

I won't be back to work on this one until later this week, probably Thursday. I'll inspect both ends of the shore power cord and the connection to the RV. I suspect that's where the problem will be.

On a related AC Power issue. We've hung a flat screen LCD TV on the wall behind the dining table. I used the tri-split rivets to hold the bracket for it to the wall. I think that's the best fasteners for that job. It seems to be secure and strong.

There's a power outlet in that wall on the bathroom side. Will I be able to get power from there and install a new AC power outlet on the side toward the table. And why are all the AC power plates in this thing "single outlet" with a faux second outlet (molded to look like one, but the socket slots aren't open, they are solid plastic). Can I replace any of them with dual outlets? Or even dual + USB power type outlets for charging phones, tablets, etc.

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