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otrfun

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Posted: 10/06/19 10:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

With our Ram 3500 SRW empty, only about 80% of the tread contacts the pavement with 80 psi in the rear tires. Easy to see the contact pattern driving on pavement after driving on a dusty, dirt road. Gonna have a rough time convincing me I'm getting even tire wear and/or maximum traction with only 80% of the tread in contact with the pavement with 80 in the rear tires (empty). We typically drop the rear tires down to 35-40 psi to get 100% tread contact and a softer ride with the truck empty. Been doing this for 50k miles and get consistently even wear (within 1/32nd in. across the entire width of the tires).

As for the front tires, OEM recommendation is 60 psi (Cummins). On our truck 65 psi results in the most even wear on the front. On those occasions we get excess wear on the outside edges of the tire, we may run 70 psi for a few thousand miles to even things out.

Cummins12V98

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Posted: 10/06/19 01:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

noteven wrote:

I run MAX psi in my tires.

I try to run MAX speed as well. Put Q rated 99mph MAX tires on my 18000lbs MAX toyhauler. Ol Dodge has a time getting to MAX but with MAX throttle and MAX manifold psi it tries. Does better on MAX 80mph roads. Gets hard on fuel but MAX is best.

Do everthin to MAX I say.

Signed,
Max


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wilber1

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Posted: 10/06/19 11:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Me Again wrote:

wilber1 wrote:

AlmostAnOldGuy wrote:

How about the inflation table

Not interested in running over inflated. Ride is more harsh and less performance.

Load inflation tables just give the maximum loads for different pressures, they are not recommended pressures.

Vehicle recommended pressures are a compromise between load capability, handling, stopping and ride.


The door jam sticker is for the MAX GAWR of each axle individually. Our 2001 RAM paper work actually had an included document to show inflation for lighter loads.

If you believes in leaving an axle weighing 3200-3400 when empty at 80 PSI, why are you not inflating your fronts to 80 PSI? Oh, wait manufacturer said you only need 60 PSI for that lighter axle load!! Which reminds me, I need to lower my rears to 42 PSI as I will not be towing again for 7 months.

[image]


Read my post again, I am not advocating running max pressure all the time, just pointing out that load inflation tables are just that, maximum load ratings at different pressures. If you tailor your pressures for your actual load, you are running your tires at their maximum because that is what those tables mean. They are not recommended pressures, they are the maximum load the tire can handle at that pressure.


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Me Again

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Posted: 10/07/19 07:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wilber1 wrote:

Me Again wrote:

wilber1 wrote:

AlmostAnOldGuy wrote:

How about the inflation table

Not interested in running over inflated. Ride is more harsh and less performance.

Load inflation tables just give the maximum loads for different pressures, they are not recommended pressures.

Vehicle recommended pressures are a compromise between load capability, handling, stopping and ride.


The door jam sticker is for the MAX GAWR of each axle individually. Our 2001 RAM paper work actually had an included document to show inflation for lighter loads.

If you believes in leaving an axle weighing 3200-3400 when empty at 80 PSI, why are you not inflating your fronts to 80 PSI? Oh, wait manufacturer said you only need 60 PSI for that lighter axle load!! Which reminds me, I need to lower my rears to 42 PSI as I will not be towing again for 7 months.

[image]


Read my post again, I am not advocating running max pressure all the time, just pointing out that load inflation tables are just that, maximum load ratings at different pressures. If you tailor your pressures for your actual load, you are running your tires at their maximum because that is what those tables mean. They are not recommended pressures, they are the maximum load the tire can handle at that pressure.


If one uses the chock test or drive on white paper test you will find that having the pressure close to the inflation table will match the correct contact patch and is the point that the tire has the best balance of performance for handling and braking. Over inflated tires have a greater chance of impact damage.


2015 RAM 3500 CC SB SRW Our Rig New 2017 Bighorn 3575el. Commuter trailer 2019 Laredo 225MK. Retired and enjoying it!


Cummins12V98

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Posted: 10/07/19 08:47am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

" If you tailor your pressures for your actual load, you are running your tires at their maximum because that is what those tables mean. They are not recommended pressures, they are the maximum load the tire can handle at that pressure."

If you contact GY Tech they will tell you it's fine to use those numbers but to also add 5psi to what the chart dictates.

Lantley

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Posted: 10/07/19 08:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cummins12V98 wrote:

" If you tailor your pressures for your actual load, you are running your tires at their maximum because that is what those tables mean. They are not recommended pressures, they are the maximum load the tire can handle at that pressure."

If you contact GY Tech they will tell you it's fine to use those numbers but to also add 5psi to what the chart dictates.

Again I agree with you to a point. I keep my tires at max. pressure at all times. I'm not going to through the trouble of airing down.
But I do believe max. pressure give me maximum performance. Whenn Im going down I-81 in PA or I 95 through SC. I want a solid tire that can withstand the impact of the potholes and moon craters on these roads.
Before upgrading to a better tire I suffered blowouts on the RV due to these rugged roads.
The charts work in an ideal world,unfortunately I have yet to find that ideal world.


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wilber1

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Posted: 10/07/19 09:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cummins12V98 wrote:

" If you tailor your pressures for your actual load, you are running your tires at their maximum because that is what those tables mean. They are not recommended pressures, they are the maximum load the tire can handle at that pressure."

If you contact GY Tech they will tell you it's fine to use those numbers but to also add 5psi to what the chart dictates.


They are just giving a fudge factor in case you are out on your weights. Goodyear doesn’t know what application the tire is being used for, they are just giving maximum weights for specific pressures. Do you think NASCAR uses tire load charts or do they use the optimum pressures to give the best performance for their particular vehicle? Vehicle manufactures specify pressures that give what they consider to be the best compromise between load capacity, wear, handling, braking and ride for that particular vehicle. Not all vehicles using the same tire will use the same recommended pressures for that very reason.

Cummins12V98

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Posted: 10/07/19 11:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wilber1 wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

" If you tailor your pressures for your actual load, you are running your tires at their maximum because that is what those tables mean. They are not recommended pressures, they are the maximum load the tire can handle at that pressure."

If you contact GY Tech they will tell you it's fine to use those numbers but to also add 5psi to what the chart dictates.


They are just giving a fudge factor in case you are out on your weights. Goodyear doesn’t know what application the tire is being used for, they are just giving maximum weights for specific pressures. Do you think NASCAR uses tire load charts or do they use the optimum pressures to give the best performance for their particular vehicle? Vehicle manufactures specify pressures that give what they consider to be the best compromise between load capacity, wear, handling, braking and ride for that particular vehicle. Not all vehicles using the same tire will use the same recommended pressures for that very reason.


Yes they do add 5psi because the load can change going down the road. Follow the chart with proper inflation based on load and the tire will wear even, better ride and stopping plain and simple.

Not sure what NASCAR has to do with the subject.

Bert Ackerman

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Posted: 10/07/19 12:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cummins12V98 wrote:



Not sure what NASCAR has to do with the subject.


You should be sure what Nascar has to do with it, because to get 100K from BFG's and 120K from Michelin's they had to be matched perfect and staggered special.

Cummins12V98 wrote:



My 98 4x4 with 3rd gen tires and wheels I ran 72 front 35-40 rear unloaded. I would get 100k BFG's and 120K Michelins.



Cummins12V98

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Posted: 10/07/19 12:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bert Ackerman wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:



Not sure what NASCAR has to do with the subject.


You should be sure what Nascar has to do with it, because to get 100K from BFG's and 120K from Michelin's they had to be matched perfect and staggered special.

Cummins12V98 wrote:



My 98 4x4 with 3rd gen tires and wheels I ran 72 front 35-40 rear unloaded. I would get 100k BFG's and 120K Michelins.



I used inflation charts, rotated about 15k and did a CHIT load of Freeway Commuting. Sometimes it felt like NASCAR. [emoticon]

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