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 > 12V power into the bed?

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joebedford

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Posted: 10/05/19 06:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 2011 Silverado 3500HD and need to get more 12V into the bed of my truck than the 7-pin connector will provide.

Do I have to run a new line from a spare slot in the the breaker / fuse panel or is there somewhere I can splice into near the box?

midnightsadie

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Posted: 10/05/19 07:16am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I needed 12v for a winch, I went to the battery added a 20amp in line fuse back to the bed this way nothing else is on that fuse just in case there was a melt down.

trail-explorer

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Posted: 10/05/19 07:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You need a totally upgrade system like what this Silverado owner did.


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Posted: 10/05/19 08:08am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There is big difference between running power for let's say additional light in the bed and let's say 12k lb winch who can draw 400 amp.
Specify what you need as the application will make whole World of difference.





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Posted: 10/05/19 09:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As said, if you can give us an idea what the power is for we can possibly give a better answer. For a generic answer check for a fuse and repay panel under the hood. See if there is a fused power post that you can add an additional wire and ring terminal to pull your power. If you only need minimal power you could try a fuse tap.
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To use a fuse tap you remove an existing fuse from the fuse block and plug the fuse tap into the empty slot. Then you plug the previously removed fuse in the fuse tap. This restores the function of the removed fuse. After that you plug a second fuse into the fuse tap and run now fused power out the pigtail to your new accessory.


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Posted: 10/05/19 03:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have two ham radios in my car and I ran separate wires Direct up to the battery with an in-line fuse in there.


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joebedford

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Posted: 10/05/19 07:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I was thinking 40-50A to run a cooler and some smallish tools. Maybe a small inverter too.

otrfun

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Posted: 10/06/19 08:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

40-50 amps is a bit much for most OEM fuseboxes/panels. Not fun replacing a melted fuse box. I'd recommend bypassing it and running a cable (along with an appropriate in-line fuse) directly from the battery terminal. My guess it's about a 18-20 ft. run from the battery to the rear of the truck. I'd suggest using 2 AWG (or larger) cable to keep your voltage drop minimal at 50 amps.

burningman

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Posted: 10/06/19 11:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

otrfun wrote:

40-50 amps is a bit much for most OEM fuseboxes/panels. Not fun replacing a melted fuse box. I'd recommend bypassing it and running a cable (along with an appropriate in-line fuse) directly from the battery terminal. My guess it's about a 18-20 ft. run from the battery to the rear of the truck. I'd suggest using 2 AWG (or larger) cable to keep your voltage drop minimal at 50 amps.


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Kayteg1

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Posted: 10/06/19 11:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Everything in this life can be done in several different ways, but for fridge I would run ignition-activated circuit. You might tap into lighter circuit for that if that is how your truck works.
Than for tools & inverter you might want constant power, especially when you have diesel with dual batteries.
Meaning 2 separate cables and inverter size will dictate the size on the bigger one.

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