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 > Taaadaaa! Took the plunge. Airbags on the Class A

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fred42

Charlotte, NC, USA

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Posted: 10/22/20 01:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RustyMacIntosh wrote:

...The install was not exactly as planned. Yes, there were pre-drilled holes on the frame. But not exactly matching up. Once the top bracket was mounted, and we squeezed the airbag down onto the bottom bracket mounted on the axle housing, it was all straight forward, no pun intended....


Rusty,

I do not have handling issues of any kind but the front leans an inch or two lower on the drivers side. No visible damage to the springs. I was considering a front only airbag install.

I see the kit:

1990-2007 Ford F53 Firestone "Ride-Rite" Air Bag, front Model: 2070

requires a 3/8 hole be drilled in the frame. The Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 88140/57140 appears not to need drilling as you said.

Other than that issue, did you or others intentionally avoid the Firestone product?

thanks,

* This post was edited 10/22/20 01:35pm by fred42 *


2007 Tiffin Allegro 28DA


jeromep

Eastern Washington State

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Posted: 11/18/20 05:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fred42 wrote:



Rusty,

I do not have handling issues of any kind but the front leans an inch or two lower on the drivers side. No visible damage to the springs. I was considering a front only airbag install.

I see the kit:

1990-2007 Ford F53 Firestone "Ride-Rite" Air Bag, front Model: 2070

requires a 3/8 hole be drilled in the frame. The Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 88140/57140 appears not to need drilling as you said.

Other than that issue, did you or others intentionally avoid the Firestone product?

thanks,


Found this entire thread interesting. I purchased a 95 Bounder 34j which had the Ride-Rite air bags front and rear. Previous owner said to run them at 70 lbs. So far I've not had any issue with that recommendation. It's a pretty firm ride, but crosswinds are a bit easier to handle than I had expected with a firmer ride. Previous owner had purchased a '14 Bounder and had not yet done anything with the suspension and was already complaining to me about how much wallow the new motorhome had compared to the old one.

MrWizard

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Posted: 12/25/20 01:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I never got to do the rear airbag install, the first stimulus check went to other expenses, this next stimulus when/if it arrives is going for the lifts, even if it takes the whole check, 2020 has been a rough year all the way around, one more week, then we welcome 2021 and everybody I know is hoping and praying it Will be a better year all around.
Sure need to Lift our spirits the whole world has got The Covid-19 Blues

Merry Christmas too All


Radiate The Happy
....

Connected using Verizon and AT&T
1997 F53 Bounder 36s


RLS7201

Beautyful Downtown Gladstone, MO

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Posted: 12/25/20 09:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MrWizzard, I just saw the thread again and no I don't have pictures of my rear air bag install. I elected to go with the Firestone air bags. Hardest part is removing the duals. Pretty much a bolt on deal. Maybe I drilled one hole on each side.
I elected to mount the valve stems on the rear of the wheel flairs.
I would go out and take a pic or 2 for you but I woke up to 7°F, this morning. Will be rolling from beautiful downtown Gladstone, MO to not so beautiful downtown Quartzsite in a couple of days.

Richard


95 Bounder 32H F53
460/528 stroker
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First brake job
1941 Hudson


MrWizard

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Posted: 01/11/21 03:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Stimulus is here, and I'm checking air lift kit #s
Again to be sure, I'm ordering as soon as I can be sure I got the right numbers

MrWizard

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Posted: 01/14/21 02:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I ordered the Airlift kit, part# 57208, I went to the company website too look it up F53 class motorhome rear 1990 ~ 1998 chassis, the downloaded instructions say to drill 4 holes for each top bracket, I would rather not do that much work, but I wanted to buy the one the company said was the correct one, hoping to do the project this weekend, ordered from Amazon, $319 before taxes, Kit has everything except the drill and the drill bits


[image]
[image]Click For Full-Size Image.

* This post was edited 01/16/21 02:44am by MrWizard *

MrWizard

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Posted: 01/15/21 04:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My airlift load lifter 5000 air spring kit 57208
Has arrived

But I'm wondering if my 3/8" Ryobi Cordless is strong enough to drill the holes in the frame/chassis, or do I need to get a larger stronger drill for making the 8 new holes, 4 holes each side , for the upper mounting bracket, using a 3/8" Drill bit, I suspect the toughfest part of this project is going to be removing the dual wheels, new tires were mounted in July, of course the the store uses air impact tools, perhaps a New 20v cordless impact drill driver is the answer for the lug nuts, and drilling the holes, awaiting suggestions and opinions,
Since I full time, no large volume air compressor and tank, no air tools, no air drill,no air powered impact driver, I have heavy 1/2 drive impact sockets used with a 3ft long 1/2" drive breaker bar too loosen or tighten lug nuts,
2 bottle jacks and the hydraulic levelling jacks, blocks of wood, I've been thru the tire removal before, when doing a brake job, I know how heavy that job is
But the only time I ever did something remotely close to this, was holes in the bumper of my 68 mustang for a trailer hitch and that was a long time ago with a new car, you do the math, I was much younger then, experience changes Devil may care "I got this"
Into a more cautious approach.

* This post was edited 01/15/21 04:59pm by MrWizard *

kdk

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Posted: 01/15/21 05:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Drill a 1/4" pilot hole first, then the 3/8" hole. Your drill wll do it.











'""


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Dutch_12078

Winters south, summers north

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Posted: 01/15/21 07:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As KDK said, do the pilot hole and then the finish hole. I did 16 half-inch holes in the frame of a previous motorhome with a Makita cordless drill to install a Bigfoot jack system using the same process. The job sucked down batteries pretty quickly, but with a couple of spares and a charger on hand it wasn't a problem.


Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate


MrWizard

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Posted: 01/15/21 11:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks I can try that, I was thinking of pilot holes, just wasn't sure my RYOBI drill has enough ummph for the job ahead of me, only got one battery, a replacement with little use, I better put it on the charger for a top OFF, RYOBI 18V ONE+/one plus battery (3000 MaHr18v , 54 watt HR) with pilots I do drill each hole twice, but less work per drill cycle, your right enlarging is easier than drilling straight thru with the larger bit
Thanks for the reminder

* This post was last edited 01/16/21 02:27am by MrWizard *   View edit history

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