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braygor

Maryland's Eastern Shore

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Posted: 10/18/20 05:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When I turn on the furnace, blower comes on for a few seconds, then the gas and ignitor - it ignites and burns for about 5 sec (with ignitor clicking entire time), then gas and ignitor shut off, blower continues for 10 seconds, then it cycles two more times, then shuts off. After that, the LED on the board blinks 3 times, indicating Ignition Lockout Fault. I have good gas flow and it's clear that the gas is igniting, as I get hot exhaust. I changed the control board because that seems to be a common fix and it's pretty easy (just not on the wallet). Unfortunately, that didn't do it. So I'm thinking the board is not getting the message that the gas is igniting, which leads to thermocouple. Anyone familiar pulling one of these out? Is the thermocouple built into the ignitor?


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BFL13

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Posted: 10/18/20 05:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Model/year of the furnace? Some have separate heat sensor probes going to the circuit board, while the newer way just has the sparker, but it "reads" the flame magically, so your post is not clear on that. You changed the CB and it did not fix it, so is it the old way you can change the probe that lies alongside the sparker?

That flame sensor probe ( if fitted) has its own wire that can be checked for connection too.


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louisiana

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Posted: 10/18/20 05:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Change your propane regulator

Matt_Colie

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Posted: 10/18/20 06:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Braygor,

Even if you don't want to change out the regulator, at least check that it is providing the 11"wc that it should. If it is at all old, get a 2 stage unit to replace it and many things will work better.

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A1B00902

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Posted: 10/18/20 06:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Same thing happened with me, each year before we go south,but after 3 tries it stays on, I think that the igniter was damp/dirty, after it dried it worked.





braygor

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Posted: 10/18/20 06:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BFL13 wrote:

Model/year of the furnace? Some have separate heat sensor probes going to the circuit board, while the newer way just has the sparker, but it "reads" the flame magically, so your post is not clear on that. You changed the CB and it did not fix it, so is it the old way you can change the probe that lies alongside the sparker?

That flame sensor probe ( if fitted) has its own wire that can be checked for connection too.


Trailer is 2006, furnace is original. CB has four connections - the harness, one to the black cylinder (spark?) and two small lines, one red and one blue.

enblethen

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Posted: 10/18/20 07:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Check the alignment of the flame senor to insure it is directly in the flame.
Black should be ground
red goes to gas valve
white to limit switch
blue connects to the blue from limit switch that ties to the thermostat.
This is according to furnace manual I have.
Exact model of your furnace would help!


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doxiemom11

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Posted: 10/18/20 10:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We had to change the circuit board when ours did that.

wa8yxm

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Posted: 10/19/20 05:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ok Starts. then shuts off (3 times) then locks out Each time it lights but then shuts off.. Sounds very very very familure (As in I had that problem).

Suspect list:
An obstruction in the burner orifice (Gas jet) or elsewhere can cause a weak flame. I do not think this is it

A deffective thermocouple may not detect the flame. I've heard of this but again I do not think it is common.. If it's all cruded up with carbon it might be and issue.

Bad connection between Thermocouple and mother board (NOTE on a single wire system the wire is the ignition wire) this can do it. After all ignition is like 1000 volts AC and Sense is 1/2 volt DC so the kilovolt will overcome a bad connection and actually make it worse.. However again I think rare.> Still easy to check (just pull and reconnect the connectors a few times each one on each end of the wire)

Bad control board (Motherboard) DING I found my winner..
THeory (And support to follow) is that if the swichover from SEND SPARKS to Look for .480 volts from thermocouple goes flakey then the sensor chip gets hit with up to 1500 volts and POP goes the wafer. So no heat sense.

Solution was a new board from DINOSAUR boards.

Support for my theory: ON the Dino broad right about where I suspect that sensor chip is there is a nifty gas discharge tube. This tube is a "Surge Suppressor" type device (like the MOV in a power strip) that clips and limits the voltage to something the sensor chip can withstand.

My Guess is that Dinosaur Boards and I think alike on this issue.

Other comments: I am a trained Certified Electronics technician who has designed and built some of his own hardware. My initial impression when I took the Dino board out of the box was QUALITY!!!.. and nothing since has changed that impression .. Oh that was 2012 (Feburary) when I opened that box. it still works.


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braygor

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Posted: 10/19/20 06:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

enblethen wrote:

Check the alignment of the flame senor to insure it is directly in the flame.
Black should be ground
red goes to gas valve
white to limit switch
blue connects to the blue from limit switch that ties to the thermostat.
This is according to furnace manual I have.
Exact model of your furnace would help!


Thanks for all the info. Model is Atwood 8525-IV DCLP

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