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learntorv

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Posted: 01/08/21 12:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

enblethen wrote:

Going with the Smartplug, you may want to buy a spare. Loosing a specialty cord will be virtually impossible in a hurry up replacement.


Been there, done that. Through a series of events, I left my cord in Orlando and drove to south Florida to the next campground. As we were driving to our site, friends texted us a picture of our cord on the ground.

That was a fairly warm night until we could get re-connected with our cord the next day!

Gdetrailer

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Posted: 01/08/21 12:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SPRey wrote:

GD I respect your opinion and fully disagree with your conclusion; your experiences, rig and objectives are yours--not mine.

There are many paths to the same destination my friend, not just one; but many, many paths.

Utilizing a standard plug designed before WWII is within your prerogative; I just like upgrading old technology with new when it makes sense, especially if I am replacing something.


Modern "technology" as all well and good up to the point that there is no universal connection available and hence the reason you have to "Kludge" your setup with an "adapter" to get back where you started..

Sure, you can put your own "smart plug" outlet at your own place, but you can't replace a campgrounds, a relatives or a friends place.

So, unless you are just planning to camp in your own yard, your conversion really does not net any better connection, period.

There is NOTHING wrong with the gold standard plugs that were "developed" before WW2, those plugs are more than enough contact capable to withstand MUCH more than what they are rated..

Even supposed 15A plugs can withstand 20A and even 25A of continuous current. 15A and 20A plugs were designed with the idea to stop someone from connection a device that required more than 15A to a 15A circuit that was protected with a 15A fuse.

The some contact area is featured on 15A and 20 amp plugs..

30A 120V RV connections do have more contact area than say a 15A/20A plug, if you look carefully, you will notice that 30A RV plugs share the same size blades as 50A 240/120V plugs..

The only REAL "problem" with 30A RV plugs is the fact that RV campgrounds 30A outlets tend to get very worn out and never replaced as they get worn. Doesn't help that the sockets are exposed a lot to weather and folks often do not turn off the breaker before plugging in or unplugging.. That causes a lot of heavy arcs and the weather takes a toll on things with corroding the contact surface.

I learned a long time ago to use a 50A to 30A adapter and use the parks 50A connection whenever possible and ALL "overheating" of my 30A shore cord plug went away. The good news about this is if or when my 50A to 30A adapter fails, I can just buy another one pretty cheap.

If you have experience meltdown of your 30A plug, it wasn't due to the fact that the contact surface is too small, it was due to WORN OUT 30A outlets that you plugged it into..

I have never had my own 30A outlet at home melt my trailer plug, but I can tell you that I have had that happen at campgrounds..

50A to 30A adapter fixed the campground issue..

Your "smart plugs" are nothing more than slick marketing double speak and hype.. I don't see those as becoming a "National standard" anytime soon which means you have an "orphan" setup and everywhere you go, you will have to use multiple connections with adapters that insert more resistance negating everything you paid for..

Lantley

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Posted: 01/08/21 01:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SPRey I can agree that the smart plug may make a more secure connection vs. the Marinco.
However the Marinco work fine as long as yoe make the extra effort to ensure the locking ring is snug and secure. Honestly many don't which allows for a lose connection. A 90º connector at the RV also reduce the stress at the twist lock connection.
What really kept me from going the Smart plug route is the smart plug is a unique proprietary cord that does not fit many of the adapters/pigtails I already have.
I do not want to abandon all the adapters I have already invested in. I do not want to be without adapters because you never know what you may run into when it comes time to plug in.


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TravelinDog

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Posted: 01/08/21 02:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Seems like the OP didn't get the response he was looking for.
I agree it's a solution looking for a problem that doesn't exist.
How many million of rv's and TT have the standard plugs with ZERO problems?

StirCrazy

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Posted: 01/08/21 07:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SPRey wrote:

tions.

#1 Replace the nondetachable power cord with one that can be plugged and removed. Don't like bugs and critters crawling in my castle and the insulation in the cord storage hole is "economical" at best. You can feel the cold air drafting.

#2 Replace the RV plug (it was getting rather warm to the touch while plugged in) which means inefficient electric contacts. My TT was manufactured in 2000, so lets just assume both the cord and molded plug are probably "tired".

We usually dry camp (seldom visit RV parks with hookups) and since 1995 (when we started RVing) never been ripped off or had any of my gear walk off--save some firewood, but we had lots.



so I agree with wanting a detachable cord, since I have one I love it, tuck it away and your done.

you have to define warm. anything electrical drawing power will produce heat. , the plug could be worn out but as was mentioned its more likely the pedistal thats work out. also, what are you running in the camper when you say it is warm? the higher amprage draw the more heat your going to get and thats why electrical parts are only rated to a spicific amprage rating. if they get to hot it can break down the insulation and then all kinds of fun stuff happens. but if you have 30 amp service and your running a bunch of stuff your darn right its going to get warm no matter what plug system you have.

the last issue if you usaly dry camp.... why are you worried about it? evey 5 years this smart plug thing pops up then dissapears, its a nich product that I have never actualy seen in use in the boating areas on the island or inland. maybe they are big in the US?

Steve


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GrandpaKip

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Posted: 01/09/21 07:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sorry, but if you’re going to all the trouble to install a new inlet to replace the mouse hole, I would still recommend the Marinco. As far as old technology, people have learned that things that work well really don’t need to be replaced. Look around your house at all the electrical plugs. They basically haven’t changed for decades. Because they work. Simple as that.
I am certainly in favor of new technology or new designs that make improvements over existing ones, but I don’t believe this cordset does that.
In the end, as long as it’s safe, what pleases you is all that really matters.


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Posted: 01/09/21 10:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You see, we live in Willamette Valley and this past summer I watched hornets walk up the cord and into the cubby hole. So, absolutely, it is time to seal that point of entry. Which means the conversion from nondetachable to detachable power cord is the best solution, which means I must perform a "power inlet conversion" (period).

If we limit our selection to what Camping World offers (RV choices)--then we have these 3 options for 30 amp service:

1. Twistlock (1/8 turn twist type, cira 1938 hospital plug)

[image]

https://www.campingworld.com/30-a-rv-pow........lectrical-hardware%2Felectrical-adapters

2. STS locking twist type (same cira 1938 hospital plug guts)

[image]
https://www.campingworld.com/hubbell-boa........-power%2Fdockside-adapters-plugs-outlets

3. Smartplug (circa 2008 and has 20 times the metal contact than the above twistlock connectors)

[image]
https://www.campingworld.com/30-amp-non-........al-hardware%2Felectrical-hatches-outlets

Now what fails? Where is the failure?
[image]

[image]

[image]

Reason for failure is: corrosion on the metal blades or contacts (plug and/or receptacle), or bad connection between the wire and the wired device (again plug and/or receptacle). Sorry GD, these failures have nothing to do with bad receptacles at RV parks. I agree, many RV parks do not up keep up with their maintenance, but the failures I am discussing, have nothing to do with the NEMA TT 30p plug, circa 1970....rather I am discussing the twist lock plugs designed before WWII that have a tendency to fail.

Check out the actual metal surface contact of those twist lock plugs...rather embarrassing I say! 30 amps of power concentrated in that narrow dimple contact.

[image]

[image]

Now check out Smartplug's 30A plug
[image]


Let's assume the cordset I bought on Walmart is bunk (I assume they are, price is way to low...but you never know, might be inventory closeout sale and easy to reverse credit charge for full refund), then the next step is to drop a few Benjamins and pick the perfect power inlet and cordset, like the one Camping World has.

[image]

https://www.campingworld.com/30-amp-30%2........2Felectrical-hardware%2Felectrical-cords
The worst thing I can do is reuse a power cord I have used for the past 20 years and wire a Smartplug connector to it. Safety first dude; as I plan be around the next 30 or so years to celebrate my 100th birthday.

I also direct readers to this article, DIY Shore Power (circa 2020). Yeah it is written for boaters (not RV'ers) but it discusses all the STS power inlet options.
https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/DIY-Shore-Power


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StirCrazy

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Posted: 01/09/21 10:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SPRey wrote:

You see, we live in Willamette Valley and this past summer I watched hornets walk up the cord and into the cubby hole. So, absolutely, it is time to seal that point of entry. Which means the conversion from nondetachable to detachable power cord is the best solution, which means I must perform a "power inlet conversion" (period).



Reason for failure is: corrosion on the metal blades or contacts (plug and/or receptacle)


didn't want to repost all the pictures and stuff for no reason.. so yes as I said getting rid of that permanat cord is reason enough to change cords, since you re starting from new get what you want. dont think the smart cord is any more resistant to corosion though. I spent the norning on the boating forums and everyone started switching to smart cord, now there are just as many smartcord or smart plug (what ever there called) failure pics. in the rv world the failures are not as frequent with either style of plug but the boating world (especialy ocean areas) there are tones of failures and whats the main cause corosion in conjunction with high amprage draw. and that is just a lack of spending the time taking care of issues when they pop up. you can get sprays that prevent corosion nd every time you hook up or unhook you should be doing a visual inspection. Dont think getting a smart plug will exempt you of thing work, it wont. but it would be easier to plug in and out.

Steve

Lynnmor

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Posted: 01/09/21 10:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My trailer came with a twist lock detachable cord. I had failures with the blades in the cord end, the wires loosened in the inlet and the cheesy plastic ring was troublesome. I installed a locking hatch and modified it to exclude pests, then hard-wired a cord. You can argue about the merits of various contacts all you want, but I prefer a continuous wire where it passes thru combustible materials. Pulling out only what I need, easily wiping the cord clean and no need to carry and find a storage place are additional benefits.





Lantley

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Posted: 01/09/21 11:24am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lynnmor wrote:

My trailer came with a twist lock detachable cord. I had failures with the blades in the cord end, the wires loosened in the inlet and the cheesy plastic ring was troublesome. I installed a locking hatch and modified it to exclude pests, then hard-wired a cord. You can argue about the merits of various contacts all you want, but I prefer a continuous wire where it passes thru combustible materials. Pulling out only what I need, easily wiping the cord clean and no need to carry and find a storage place are additional benefits.

I agree the plastic ring is troublesome. My thought is the ring is the root of all evil with the twist lock connector.
Most people don't take the time to ensure the ring is snug and tight. If the ring is not properly snugged the connection becomes loose and the problems begin.
If you take the time to use/secure the twist lok properly it works fine.
My current connection is 8 years old and still working.

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