DC-DC Charger Wiring Input Suggestions

[moonlitsouls]

Hope all is well, I’ve attached a diagram to my truck camper , I’m going to use Anderson connections to create a detachable connection for the wires from the starter battery to the charger. Where do you guys think I should route the wire ? What’s the best way to come into the camper? Thanks a lot






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[deltabravo]

I used Anderson connectors when I added a high amp wiring upgrade to my truck.

When I upgraded to Battleborns earlier this year I installed a Victron DC to DC Charger in the camper

[moonlitsouls]

alright guys thanks a lot for the ideas. i think i will feed the cable through the bed of the truck right behind the rear cab window , feed the wire into the battery compartment , then use anderson connections inside the compartment itself , which should keep it safe.

[skidsteerpilot]

I recently (4mo ago) installed Renogy 40a DC/DC charger.

F-350 chassis/cab w/flatbed and Northern Lite 10-2.

It went as follows.

Under hood, red 4awg from battery "+" post --> WindyNation 60a ANL fuse --> 300a solenoid --> 120a Anderson plug. Black 4awg from chassis ground --> Anderson plug. 300a solenoid is under hood and has 12awg trigger wire to upfitter switch and one to ground.

In camper, from Anderson red --> Renogy --> 60a Windynation ANL --> battery. From Anderson black --> battery.

We have flooded batteries so also have a temp probe from Renogy to batt compartment.

The solenoid is under the hood and wired to one of the upfitter switches in the cab, so the whole operation can be turned on/off from the upfitter switch in cab. The Anderson plug and corresponding receptacle (in camper side) both have all weather covers so when not in use they are protected. The Anderson in camper side is next to the 7pin plug for convenience.

The final step to this will be to install a high-idle switch so when sitting, we can increase the rpm's and charge without worrying about the exhaust system buildup. May or may not be worth it, still uncertain.

So far, it seems to work nicely, but haven't put it to its paces yet either.

This was a good reference article:
https://www.adventurousway.com/blog/rv-electrical-upgrade-part-3-dc-charger-truck-12v-socket

[NVR2L82AV8]

I used a set of these two-pole Pollack connectors.

Male and Female 2-Pole Pollack Connector

I mounted it (female end) on the underside of the left wing. From the Anderson connector in the truck bed I have a short pigtail with the male Pollack connector on the other end. I connect it up during when loading the camper.

[time2roll]

Kayteg1 wrote:
I don't know how protection breakers can lead into disaster?
Putting 40-50 amp breaker on 30 amp wire might.

Yes those short stops are a bit known for failing open and sometimes closed. Or just overheating.

Most have at least #8 that can go 50 amps. Possibly a wire/breaker upgrade will resolve a few issues and be easier than pulling big wire and fuse all the way from the truck.

[moonlitsouls]

hey guys , im using a renogy 60a dc-dc charger , and i upgraded the stock altn to 250amps , im going to put the dc-dc charger right near my existing battery bank , the part im confused about is where to mount the anderson cable to make this as simple as possible , my camper stays on the truck 95% of the time so im not too worried about water and stuff. maybe i can drill a hole in the battery bank compartment door and just leave them plugged up inside there , theres room for it

[Kayteg1]

The truck charging circuit had to have circuit breaker somewhere in fuse box.
I never really check it as it was always resetting itself eventually.
Converter doesn't have any visible circuit breaker, so it could be overheating sensor who was shutting it off.
I don't know how protection breakers can lead into disaster?
Putting 40-50 amp breaker on 30 amp wire might.

[time2roll]

OK that self resetting breaker is in the TC right? These self resetting breakers are a disaster waiting to happen. Get a real breaker such as Bussmann Hi-Amp of the correct rating (amazon). Probably 40-50 amp is appropriate depending on the wire size and other charging equipment.

[Kayteg1]

time2roll wrote:
I would use the existing charge wire and place the DC-DC charger near the battery in the TC.
20 amp rating should be sufficient.

I think Ford has 30 amp breaker on its charge circuit, yet had a situation when deeply discharged 2 camper batteries would keep cycling the breaker and after 3 or 4 hr of driving/charging the batteries were still low.
The situation repeated when I got shore power as 40 amp converter was cycling as well and it wasn't till next late morning when finally the charge stabilize.
I researched B2B chargers for my boat project, where I add "house" batteries and have 30 amp alternator. I was hoping B2B could limit amperage to preset value, what happen to be illusion.
I finally ended with battery combiner and 20 amp automatic breaker.
All that with voltage meter on the cluster, so I will not get surprised the same way I was in the camper.

[time2roll]

I would use the existing charge wire and place the DC-DC charger near the battery in the TC.
20 amp rating should be sufficient.

[Kayteg1]

I see pictures of carport, but no wire diagram?
Why are you using B2B charger? Do you have lithium battery?
On my Ford I was having idea of using on-board inverter to run 120V inside and use camper converter for faster charging where the small trailer wire was not adequate. But that was never important enough to me and sold the truck before doing it.

[theoldwizard1]

If you have the Power Pole connectors use them. Periodically clean grease the contacts.

[Bradymydog]

Living in the NE with all the salt on the road, I did not use Anderson plugs when I wired my DC-DC charger as there was no way to adequately weather seal the connectors or cable penetrations when not connected. I installed two Pollak 2 pole recepticals, one on the camper and one in the bed of the truck. Each is weather sealed and I don't have any pigtail to worry about when the camper is off the truck which is most of the time in my case. I then made a connector cable with the female connectors on each end. Works great for me, but not the least expensive solution.

I also looked into trolling motor connectors but wanted something with a higher amp rating.

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Pollak/PK12801.html?feed=npn&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google%20%7C%20Shop%20-%20Wiring&adgroupid=84618835800&campaignid=1672412098&creative=394587238933&device=c&devicemodel=&feeditemid=&keyword=&loc_interest_ms=&loc_physical_ms=9001738&matchtype=&network=g&placement=&position=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnoqLBhD4ARIsAL5JedInXyn3TtLtTAXS013RVl9eO0mH-XMJQtjQJLEBR7yN215etQmDhbMaAsxnEALw_wcB

[c_traveler2]

I ran my 4gauge/Anderson connection near the same place that the camper plug is at.