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 > Antifreeze NOT Bypassing Water Heater

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Sped

Sterling, MA

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Posted: 11/17/21 10:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I got the red valve on bypass and the blue valve on winterize. It’s sucking up the pink juice and spitting it out the water heater drain on the outside of the camper.

These valves seem so basic, plastic, and sort of bombproof….
Can these valves break go bad?

Am I missing something obvious?


Dan

markowwes

Vegreville, Ab. Canada

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Posted: 11/17/21 11:35am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There should be 3 valves to turn, close the cold going into the tank and the hot going out and open the bybass. that will circulate around the tank.

jimh406

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Posted: 11/17/21 11:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mine only has one valve. I guess it's possible to be bad. Mine is not plastic.


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bukhrn

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Posted: 11/17/21 01:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jimh425 wrote:

Mine only has one valve. I guess it's possible to be bad. Mine is not plastic.
Mine also has 1 valve, and it Is plastic.


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jimh406

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Posted: 11/17/21 02:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

On second thought, I have two. One at the water pump at the front of the TC and pickup from the RV Antifreeze bottle and one to bypass the water heater inside.

ticki2

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Posted: 11/17/21 02:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have two valves , one a
t the bottom to let cold water enter the water heater and one at the top for hot water to exit . The handles of the valve face the water heater when it’s in use . To bypass the heater both handles face inline with the horizontal pipes . This shuts off the water tank but allows cold water to flow in both hot and cold faucets .


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Geo*Boy

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Posted: 11/17/21 02:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jimh425 wrote:

On second thought, I have two. One at the water pump at the front of the TC and pickup from the RV Antifreeze bottle and one to bypass the water heater inside.

X2

valhalla360

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Posted: 11/18/21 01:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

markowwes wrote:

There should be 3 valves to turn, close the cold going into the tank and the hot going out and open the bybass. that will circulate around the tank.


There could be multiple configurations.
- 1 two way valve to stop water entering a the tank and route it to the bypass with a check valve at the tank exit, so water can't go into the tank thru the exit.
- 2 valves. A two way valve to stop water entering the tank and route it to the bypass with one at the exit, so water can't enter the tank.
- 3 valves. One on the entrance, one on the exit and one in the bypass line.

We've had all 3 configurations over the years.

The 3 valve option had an issue in that the rubber valve seal would come loose from the handle, so I had to pull it apart and reattach it or it wouldn't work right.


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towpro

Compass PA

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Posted: 11/18/21 08:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

https://rv101withmarkpolk.com/2019/10/24/understanding-rv-water-heater-by-pass-systems/


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Slymer

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Posted: 11/18/21 09:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That is a little weird. Over the years we have had 1, 2, and also 3 connections to do a proper HWTank bypass. I have no clue as to why some are different. With our Arctic Fox 811, there is just one, so it could not be easier. Good luck. I would put the pink stuff away until you sort it out. Maybe hookup a city water line & close all taps but open the hot water tank & you can play with the valves until water stops running out of the tank. Then you’ll know where you’re at.

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