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 > Grey tank ABS pipe leak

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bucky

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Posted: 12/07/21 03:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I found a miracle tape to fix a similar leak when 2500 miles from home. Same small drip. Silicone tape was the answer. As you wrap it tight is fuses itself to the layer before it and has crazy pressure stats. It's made by several different companies and is available at WM, hardware stores, and of course Amazon. The link below is the Rustoleum version but there are several others. I always travel with some now. It's called rescue tape.

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GrandpaKip

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Posted: 12/07/21 08:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bucky wrote:

I found a miracle tape to fix a similar leak when 2500 miles from home. Same small drip. Silicone tape was the answer. As you wrap it tight is fuses itself to the layer before it and has crazy pressure stats. It's made by several different companies and is available at WM, hardware stores, and of course Amazon. The link below is the Rustoleum version but there are several others. I always travel with some now. It's called rescue tape.

clicky

I also keep this on hand, house and rv. I “temporarily” fixed a drain pipe 5 years ago with rescue tape under a vanity.


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frisco_dave

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Posted: 12/07/21 09:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

same- got a roll of rescue tape in the rv toolbox


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wnjj

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Posted: 12/08/21 09:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It’s a bit of effort but you can cut lengthwise cuts in the bell end and pry it off in pieces. I’m not sure if there’s enough room to work in there.

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Posted: 12/08/21 12:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

On our previous 5er, the drain pipes going TO the tanks were long, didn't drain well, so I had a couple of small freeze cracks develop. I used Recue Tape for a "temporary" fix - but the spots I taped never leaked again. I did drain the pipe, then cleaned it with alcohol just so there weren't any greasy spots.

frisco_dave

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Posted: 12/12/21 04:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Update:

Below is a pic of the whole grey tank run- just as JBarca said- 2 elbows, and then out into the drain valve.

The grey tank itself is bolted into the frame- 3 bolts on each side, for a total of 6. I didn't really feel any movement in the tank itself. Felt pretty solidly attached to the frame. The more I thought on it, I do think the dips in the road on the last trip caused excessive bouncing of the trailer at 60mph speeds, and- what did the pipe in.

Where the crack is (to the right in the below pic, almost against the "collar"), there is no hub to which the pipe is going into. The "collar" is physically part of the pipe. This leaves out the option of using a boring tool to clean out any pipe in the hub (I did order the tool though. Good to have in the arsenal).

While I'm fairly certain that the Fernco coupling (hub one end, pipe the other) will fit over the "collar", once I cut the pipe, if the Fernco coupling doesn't fit, then I'm screwed.

And hence...going with the "fiber screen mesh with abs cement, 3 layers" solution from JBarca 1st. I'll drill a small hole at each end of the crack, and then go from there. Will also add a Fernco coupling (pipe one end, pipe the other) in the middle of that run to give flexibility.

In another post, saw Gdetrailer also suggested cutting an abs pipe lengthwise for a 1/2 moon, and applying that over the patch (abs cement on the 1/2 moon and the pipe, and then slipping the abs 1/2 moon onto current pipe, thus forming a bond). Potentially a next step down the road if needed.

[image]

time2roll

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Posted: 12/12/21 06:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That sweeper elbow in the foreground of the picture probably should be supported. When the pipe is full there will be significant weight on the tank joint bouncing down the road.

If you go with ABS cement repair.... skip the screen and get some thin sheet ABS and roll it to make an envelope around the pipe. Heat gun will do the trick. Gob it up with Plastic-mend and use a couple hose clamps to hold it in place while it hardens. Keep the end gap narrow and fill with more Plastic-Mend. And of course clean and prep the area.


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Lantley

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Posted: 12/12/21 06:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I agree to avoid the same problem in the future. That 3" line needs to be supported. A clevis hanger or corrugated pipe stap will do the trick.


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frisco_dave

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Posted: 12/12/21 07:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Had seen some pics from JBarca, and he used the pipe straps for support. Was gonna do the same, but hadn't thought about supporting the elbow. Thanks for the callout.

mobeewan

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Posted: 12/13/21 01:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

frisco_dave wrote:

Update:

Below is a pic of the whole grey tank run- just as JBarca said- 2 elbows, and then out into the drain valve.

The grey tank itself is bolted into the frame- 3 bolts on each side, for a total of 6. I didn't really feel any movement in the tank itself. Felt pretty solidly attached to the frame. The more I thought on it, I do think the dips in the road on the last trip caused excessive bouncing of the trailer at 60mph speeds, and- what did the pipe in.

Where the crack is (to the right in the below pic, almost against the "collar"), there is no hub to which the pipe is going into. The "collar" is physically part of the pipe. This leaves out the option of using a boring tool to clean out any pipe in the hub (I did order the tool though. Good to have in the arsenal).

While I'm fairly certain that the Fernco coupling (hub one end, pipe the other) will fit over the "collar", once I cut the pipe, if the Fernco coupling doesn't fit, then I'm screwed.

And hence...going with the "fiber screen mesh with abs cement, 3 layers" solution from JBarca 1st. I'll drill a small hole at each end of the crack, and then go from there. Will also add a Fernco coupling (pipe one end, pipe the other) in the middle of that run to give flexibility.

In another post, saw Gdetrailer also suggested cutting an abs pipe lengthwise for a 1/2 moon, and applying that over the patch (abs cement on the 1/2 moon and the pipe, and then slipping the abs 1/2 moon onto current pipe, thus forming a bond). Potentially a next step down the road if needed.

[image]


[image]

The "collar" is not physically part of the 1-1/2 inch pipe. The tank has a 3 inch female connection bonded to it. There is a 3 inch male x 1-1/2 inch female eccentric reducer glued into the 3 inch female fitting bonded to the tank. The 1-1/2 inch pipe is then glued into the 1-1/2 inch female socket end of the reducer. You can cut the pipe off and bore the socket out as I recommended with the tool you bought that I recommended.

This is the fitting the 1-1/2 pipe is glued into.
3 inch male x 1-1/2 female eccentric reducer

* This post was edited 12/13/21 01:47am by mobeewan *

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