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Coleman Airxcel thermostat and controller box installation

tuseggrolls
Explorer
Explorer
I did search, but I still need help to figure out what I did wrong, or probably, I didn't know enough. It has been a week of trying.

I want to replace the mechanical manual control knobs of the Coleman Airxcel Mach 3 Plus to a Coleman Airxcel 8330-3862 T-Stat Wall Digital Heat/Cool, and also replace the control box with the Coleman 9330C755 Control Box.

My problem: I could not find how to power the thermostat, as there is no +_12VDC in the current set up, only a -12vdc.

Any information of how to do the wiring would be appreciated.
Please help
Nick







16 REPLIES 16

tuseggrolls
Explorer
Explorer
Hoohah!
It's working beautifully!
Thanks so MUCH for your wonderful help.
Nick

A1RVTraveler wrote:
tuseggrolls wrote:
A1RVTraveler wrote:
That would be easy.

Connect the red wire on the thermostat to the Battery + on the battery.

Connect the green wire on the thermostat to the B- terminal on the control box. Add a second wire from the B- terminal to the Battery -
on the battery.

Hook up the 120VAC and everything will run assuming you have also hooked up the compressor, low fan, high fan, white furnace (heat strip) wire and freeze sensor.


The green wire from thermostat is currently connected to GH (HIGH Fan) on the control box?
I just want to make sure.


Sorry

Green wire is GH
Blue wire is Ground

tuseggrolls
Explorer
Explorer
tuseggrolls wrote:
A1RVTraveler wrote:
tuseggrolls wrote:





https://manualzz.com/doc/4039528/pro-1-t701-installation-guidepro-1-t701-installation-guide

I wish I have done more research before spending too much money for this task.
I have a residential thermostat, PRO T701. powered by batteries. I look at the wiring is not that complicated, and I like it, as it's already powered by its own.
Do you have any info/suggestion that I can use this one with the above control box?
Thanks much--much in advance
Nick

tuseggrolls
Explorer
Explorer
A1RVTraveler wrote:
tuseggrolls wrote:
A1RVTraveler wrote:
That would be easy.

Connect the red wire on the thermostat to the Battery + on the battery.

Connect the green wire on the thermostat to the B- terminal on the control box. Add a second wire from the B- terminal to the Battery -
on the battery.

Hook up the 120VAC and everything will run assuming you have also hooked up the compressor, low fan, high fan, white furnace (heat strip) wire and freeze sensor.


The green wire from thermostat is currently connected to GH (HIGH Fan) on the control box?
I just want to make sure.


Sorry

Green wire is GH
Blue wire is Ground


Thanks so much for all the help.
I will try again, next week.

A1RVTraveler
Explorer
Explorer
tuseggrolls wrote:
A1RVTraveler wrote:
That would be easy.

Connect the red wire on the thermostat to the Battery + on the battery.

Connect the green wire on the thermostat to the B- terminal on the control box. Add a second wire from the B- terminal to the Battery -
on the battery.

Hook up the 120VAC and everything will run assuming you have also hooked up the compressor, low fan, high fan, white furnace (heat strip) wire and freeze sensor.


The green wire from thermostat is currently connected to GH (HIGH Fan) on the control box?
I just want to make sure.


Sorry

Green wire is GH
Blue wire is Ground

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
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Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

tuseggrolls
Explorer
Explorer
A1RVTraveler wrote:
That would be easy.

Connect the red wire on the thermostat to the Battery + on the battery.

Connect the green wire on the thermostat to the B- terminal on the control box. Add a second wire from the B- terminal to the Battery -
on the battery.

Hook up the 120VAC and everything will run assuming you have also hooked up the compressor, low fan, high fan, white furnace (heat strip) wire and freeze sensor.


The green wire from thermostat is currently connected to GH (HIGH Fan) on the control box?
I just want to make sure.

A1RVTraveler
Explorer
Explorer
That would be easy.

Connect the red wire on the thermostat to the Battery + on the battery.

Connect the green wire on the thermostat to the B- terminal on the control box. Add a second wire from the B- terminal to the Battery -
on the battery.

Hook up the 120VAC and everything will run assuming you have also hooked up the compressor, low fan, high fan, white furnace (heat strip) wire and freeze sensor.

tuseggrolls
Explorer
Explorer
Another question, should I be able to use a 12v battery to power the thermostat?
If so, where should I connect the negative lead to?
Thx

tuseggrolls
Explorer
Explorer
A1RVTraveler wrote:
The orange and white wires plug into the control box. This is the 120VAC power that comes from the control box and powers the heat strip (not a furnace) located in the Air-conditioner.

The red wire I refer to is the typical 12V wire at the LP furnace. Coleman thermostats are typically powered from this 12V power source.

You can use any 12V you can find but you have to run it to the thermostat. Coleman thermostats need 12V to the red wire. Then the thermostat sends 12V up the ceiling control box. The ceiling control box then sends 120VAC to the AC compressor, low and high fan and the heat strip depending on your thermostat settings.

Just curious, do you also have an LP (Propane) furnace, If yes, is there another thermostat to control it?


Aaaah!
No, I don't have a furnace, but can I use a 120vac to 12vdc converter in this case.
If I can, then the 12vdc will connect to the thermostat red wire (12vdc), but where the negative wire should be connected to?
Thanks

A1RVTraveler
Explorer
Explorer
The orange and white wires plug into the control box. This is the 120VAC power that comes from the control box and powers the heat strip (not a furnace) located in the Air-conditioner.

The red wire I refer to is the typical 12V wire at the LP furnace. Coleman thermostats are typically powered from this 12V power source.

You can use any 12V you can find but you have to run it to the thermostat. Coleman thermostats need 12V to the red wire. Then the thermostat sends 12V up the ceiling control box. The ceiling control box then sends 120VAC to the AC compressor, low and high fan and the heat strip depending on your thermostat settings.

Just curious, do you also have an LP (Propane) furnace, If yes, is there another thermostat to control it?

tuseggrolls
Explorer
Explorer
A1RVTraveler wrote:
The blue wire from the thermostat goes to ground anywhere on the RV and also must be connected to the (B-) wire on the control box.


It appears option 2 is the best in my case, but I am not sure where is the red wire that you've mentioned, except the orange wire...and I am not even sure that I am looking at the right part.
Please see the attached photos.
Thanks much again
Nick
BTW: I measure with a voltmeter, and I can't get a 12vdc anywhere.:M



A1RVTraveler
Explorer
Explorer
The blue wire from the thermostat goes to ground anywhere on the RV and also must be connected to the (B-) wire on the control box.

tuseggrolls
Explorer
Explorer
A1RVTraveler wrote:
As a repairman, I run into this issue every time someone wants to change from ceiling controls to a wall thermostat.

You have to run a 12VDC wire from somewhere.

These options come to mind.

1. Run a 12V wire from a source near the new thermostat location. You might be able to use a light source. Just make sure you use 12V that comes to the light switch, not the 12V leaving the light switch to the light.

2. Run 12V from the furnace to the thermostat. Tap into the red furnace wire.

3. Run a new 12V line from the fuse panel.

4. I have added a 120VAC Duplex box (THINK WALL OUTLET IN HOUSE) in the ceiling assembly area. Use the 120VAC coming to the new Control box. Just splice it in series prior to the control box. You can now buy an 120VAC to 12DC adapter (Radio Shack) Plug the adapter into the Duplex box and then you have a new 12VDC source. Since you have to run a bunch of wires from the Control Box down to the thermostat, you can run one more wire for the 12V to the thermostat.

Hope this helps.


Thanks a million for the jnfo.

Options

1. I have no idea, as I don't have any 12vdc light in my trailer.
2. I wjll have study on this one.
3. Not an option in my case
4. If i can find a 12vdc source then I can run to the thermostat, but I have only 1 wire (red) left from the thermostat. Do i need a ground wire, too?

Thanks again

A1RVTraveler
Explorer
Explorer
As a repairman, I run into this issue every time someone wants to change from ceiling controls to a wall thermostat.

You have to run a 12VDC wire from somewhere.

These options come to mind.

1. Run a 12V wire from a source near the new thermostat location. You might be able to use a light source. Just make sure you use 12V that comes to the light switch, not the 12V leaving the light switch to the light.

2. Run 12V from the furnace to the thermostat. Tap into the red furnace wire.

3. Run a new 12V line from the fuse panel.

4. I have added a 120VAC Duplex box (THINK WALL OUTLET IN HOUSE) in the ceiling assembly area. Use the 120VAC coming to the new Control box. Just splice it in series prior to the control box. You can now buy an 120VAC to 12DC adapter (Radio Shack) Plug the adapter into the Duplex box and then you have a new 12VDC source. Since you have to run a bunch of wires from the Control Box down to the thermostat, you can run one more wire for the 12V to the thermostat.

Hope this helps.