At what pressure do you run your Sailun tires?

[kohana]

I'm replacing my E rated Michelin Ribs with Sailun 235/85/16G tires.
The scaled weight on my trailer wheels is just under 11200lb, about 2800lb/tire avg. My rims are G rated. I run the E tires @ 80lb but 110lb for the Gs seems way too much.
I'm thinking about 90lb, less on a cold morning (won't chase the pressure as I do now).
BTY the Michelins have been great for 6 yrs. but cost is over twice as much and they are close to their weight limits.
I would like to know what others are doing.

[Wild_Card]

As hard as a Sailun tire is I doubt we will see odd wear. I was just stating that the sidewall is max psi for max load.

[justafordguy]

I run 110psi in mine and they are showing no abnormal wear.

[fj12ryder]

Lantley wrote:

Wild Card wrote:

trail-explorer wrote:

allen8106 wrote:
What ever the maximum cold pressure printed on the sidewall is the correct pressure, unless your wheels are not rated for that high of pressure.

DITTO

Thats not how it works.

The tire is rated for 4480# per tire at 110 psig. If you are not carrying 4480# per tire you are over inflated.


Edit
The 4480# per tire is just a number...i dont rmember what the exact capacity is.

That's how it works on paper in reality ST tires are notoriously cheap. Until I went to the top of the line tire like a Sailun. I had blow out issues. I want maximum capability and maximum margin therefore I air my tires to max. pressure.
I understand it is possible to over inflate your tires however my wear patterns are fine.
Trying to dial in load to tire pressure is pointless. We know the tires do not carry the same weight because the RV is not balanced that way.
Why bother filling the tires to some lower pressure in an effort to have pressure match load. If the load on each tire is different the pressure in each tire should be different as well if you truly wanted to match load to pressure.
I avoid all that nonsense and air to max pressure in order to get maximum capability and margin. Why derate the tire by lowering the air pressure? If I wanted a less capable tire I would have purchased some el cheapo vs. buying a Sailun and reducing the pressure to less capable ratings.
3 years at max. pressure so far no issues.

If you're carrying 2,000 lb. on a 4,000 lb. rated tire and you're looking for a bit smoother ride, why not air the tire down? Have you ever seen an empty semi trailer hit a big bump? They get some serious bounce, not necessarily the best thing for a 5th wheel full of stuff. Nobody says you have to be precise about it as long as you know you have sufficient pressure for the load you're carrying. If you don't know your load, and don't care to find out, then you're probably better off running max air pressure.

I've run mine at 90 psi to 100 psi since they've been on there, which is 4 years and probably 20,000 miles. They look perfect. And at the lower pressure I do get less movement in the toyhauler. Works for me.

[cummins2014]

Lantley wrote:

Wild Card wrote:

trail-explorer wrote:

allen8106 wrote:
What ever the maximum cold pressure printed on the sidewall is the correct pressure, unless your wheels are not rated for that high of pressure.

DITTO

Thats not how it works.

The tire is rated for 4480# per tire at 110 psig. If you are not carrying 4480# per tire you are over inflated.


Edit
The 4480# per tire is just a number...i dont rmember what the exact capacity is.

That's how it works on paper in reality ST tires are notoriously cheap. Until I went to the top of the line tire like a Sailun. I had blow out issues. I want maximum capability and maximum margin therefore I air my tires to max. pressure.
I understand it is possible to over inflate your tires however my wear patterns are fine.
Trying to dial in load to tire pressure is pointless. We know the tires do not carry the same weight because the RV is not balanced that way.
Why bother filling the tires to some lower pressure in an effort to have pressure match load. If the load on each tire is different the pressure in each tire should be different as well if you truly wanted to match load to pressure.
I avoid all that nonsense and air to max pressure in order to get maximum capability and margin. Why derate the tire by lowering the air pressure? If I wanted a less capable tire I would have purchased some el cheapo vs. buying a Sailun and reducing the pressure to less capable ratings.
3 years at max. pressure so far no issues.

And I have run my G614's , and now my Sailuns at 95-105. I know for a fact that I am not that close to max weight on any tire. Its worked okay for me for nearly seven years now. Yet IMO I do need a G rated tire with my fifth wheel at around 13500, depending on the loading for the trip.

I agree I wouldn't run them at 80 psi, but I see no need unless you absolutely need the max weight rating out of the tires to run 110 psi. I run close ,but not at 110 psi. cold.

[Lantley]

Wild Card wrote:

trail-explorer wrote:

allen8106 wrote:
What ever the maximum cold pressure printed on the sidewall is the correct pressure, unless your wheels are not rated for that high of pressure.

DITTO

Thats not how it works.

The tire is rated for 4480# per tire at 110 psig. If you are not carrying 4480# per tire you are over inflated.


Edit
The 4480# per tire is just a number...i dont rmember what the exact capacity is.

That's how it works on paper in reality ST tires are notoriously cheap. Until I went to the top of the line tire like a Sailun. I had blow out issues. I want maximum capability and maximum margin therefore I air my tires to max. pressure.
I understand it is possible to over inflate your tires however my wear patterns are fine.
Trying to dial in load to tire pressure is pointless. We know the tires do not carry the same weight because the RV is not balanced that way.
Why bother filling the tires to some lower pressure in an effort to have pressure match load. If the load on each tire is different the pressure in each tire should be different as well if you truly wanted to match load to pressure.
I avoid all that nonsense and air to max pressure in order to get maximum capability and margin. Why derate the tire by lowering the air pressure? If I wanted a less capable tire I would have purchased some el cheapo vs. buying a Sailun and reducing the pressure to less capable ratings.
3 years at max. pressure so far no issues.

[kedanie]

There are posters here that list all kinds of various federal regulations. Most, if not all of those apply to manufacturers and dealers. Once the RV has passed the first sale the current owner is pretty much free to install whatever tires or equipment they choose. There are no enforcement police out there that will pull,you over and inspect your current setup for safety regulations. You are pretty much on your own to insure the safety of your RV. Now, if your RV is grossly unsafe and you are involved in an accident, the legal system ma take you to task for operating an unsafe vehicle.

Keith

[Wild_Card]

trail-explorer wrote:

allen8106 wrote:
What ever the maximum cold pressure printed on the sidewall is the correct pressure, unless your wheels are not rated for that high of pressure.

DITTO

Thats not how it works.

The tire is rated for 4480# per tire at 110 psig. If you are not carrying 4480# per tire you are over inflated.


Edit
The 4480# per tire is just a number...i dont rmember what the exact capacity is.

[kedanie]

fj12ryder wrote:
So basically I can put on whatever tire I want to, but the trailer company can't.

Short answer is yes. After first sale, the owner can install whatever they want. The only thing that can be checked is if the load rating for the tires is enough for the axle rating GAWR.

Keith

[fj12ryder]

Most of the links are standard CYA-lawyer-driven statements. I did read through part of the RMA .pdf, but I lost all faith in it when I came across this statement: "Therefore, ST tires should not be replaced with any other type tire." 🙂

AFAIC if I replace my tires with tires capable of carrying the load, I'm good. I really don't give a hoot about a regulatory agency that assumes no one could find their behind with both hands and a flashlight.

[Us_out_West]

I start out the day at 90psi 'cold'.

Of course the tire temps rise when getting down the road and running in the low 100's works well for us.

Lots of miles and zero issues on our Sailuns' and they look good now...would purchase again.

[trail-explorer]

allen8106 wrote:
What ever the maximum cold pressure printed on the sidewall is the correct pressure, unless your wheels are not rated for that high of pressure.

DITTO

[CALandLIN]

fj12ryder wrote:
So basically I can put on whatever tire I want to, but the trailer company can't.

I would say it depends a lot on your particular perspective. Are you a tire engineer with oodles of “on hand” experience?

There are hundreds of documents that suggest we follow the rules. Safety is normally on top of such a list.

DOT, NHTSA, FMVSS, in that order set the rules for our vehicles roiling on tires. Committees that include experts from within the tire & vehicle communities get together ever now and then and hash over how everything is working and discuss ways to improve on safety.

Here is an interpretation I got from NHTSA. It’s short and to the point.

"Industry standards generally form the basis for demonstrating product safety and
quality before courts, regulators, retailers, consumers and others."

There are documents that set precedent for tire safety inspections. For this post I’ll use 570.62 From the vehicle in use regulation (an active document). It says, in part, that during a tire inspection that ;

“A mismatch in size and construction between tires on the same axle, or a major deviation from the size recommended by the vehicle or tire manufacturer, is a cause for rejection.”

Let’s say you’re thinking about Michelin tires and you read this
Click Here!

Or you’ve found some really reasonably priced tires from Cooper, Click Here!

I can’t continue, people will quit reading. I’ll leave you with this one, it’s good all the way to the end.

RMA

[fj12ryder]

So basically I can put on whatever tire I want to, but the trailer company can't.

[CALandLIN]

fj12ryder wrote:
"Tire industry standards suggest - with strong wordings - that OE tires be inflated to the vehicle manufacturer recommendations - almost always what the side wall says."

IMO this is very much a CYA by the industry, both trailer, and tire. No one wants a lawsuit based on the statement that "They said my tires didn't have to be inflated that much", after the tire self-destructs because it was under inflated for the load it was carrying. Easiest, and probably recommended by the lawyers, to say "Fill 'em full".

Sez who? Why does it matter as long as my tires equal or exceed my GVWR. If I have 13,000 lbs. on three axles why do I need tires that can carry 24,000 lbs.? Please cite the regulation. And 6 "E" rated LT tires at 3,000 lbs. will equal my GVWR of 18,000 lbs. And more than equal when you figure 3,600 lbs. off for pin weight.

But, who is covering what? FMVSS instructs the vehicle manufacturer to use tires with a load capacity equal to or greater than the vehicle's GAWRs. Then they tell them to use an appropriate amount of inflation pressure in each tire to insure they can carry the load of the GAWRs.

"Replacement tires must have a load capacity equal to or greater than the OE tires provided. Plus sized tires should have an inflation pressure set at a value that provides enough load capacity to equal or exceed what the OE tires provided."

In every tire manufacturers SOP there is a statement that requires replacement tires to have a load capacity equal to the OE tires or greater than that load capacity. They are not going to trump the vehicle manufacturer's OE tire selection. Why? Because NHTSA has given the vehicle manufacturer sole responsibility for OE tire selection.

NHTSA requires automotive tire fitments to have some load capacity reserves. Trailer's do not get that luxury. Besides that, tires are not selected for any vehicle's GVWR. They are selected to support the axle they are fitted to.