Dump valve replacement gone bad

[mielock]

I was mostly concerned about how to get a new dump valve in place with seals intact between two immovable objects until I tried to remove the faulty one, which I did not succeed. After removing the 4 bolts, the valve will spin, but the amount of force I applied to unseat it with no outward movement made me stop and ask for help. I've watched YouTube videos that show one or both sides of the valve to have flexibility in the plumbing, but for me, absolutely zero flex. The plumbing on either side of the valve is not moving anywhere. Any suggestions how to remove the valve and get the new one installed without seal issues?

[magic43]

In this instance, Fernco fittings can be drastically shortened with no ill effects.

[ranchertx]

Something that works really good for cracks in pipes is Gorilla Tape. Clean it good and rough it up a little with sandpaper. It will last for a long time until you can replace the cracked pipe.

[Dave_H_M]

But I am thinking that maybe downstream of that fitting shown there would be room to install the Fernco coupling. OOPS me and op were at it sat the same time.

[mielock]

Thanks for all the replies, which is much appreciated. As a result of the suggestions, I've determined that I can cut a 3" pipe that tees into the main outlet on the opposite side. It will be about 2' of loose pipe to handle, but at least I know it'll work. Thanks again for all who chimed in.

[3oaks]

In mielock's case, looking at the picture, there doesn't appear to be enough room to install a 3" Fernco coupling. The length of the existing 3" pipe is too short between the bell ends of flanged fitting for the one side of the knife valve and the next pipe fitting.

[Cummins12V98]

" I would likely cut the 3" drain pipe with a saw and reconnect using a 3" fernco connector"

EXACTLY!

I would NOT slide metal between the parts you could scratch the mating surfaces and cause a sealing problem with the new valve.

CUT THE PIPE!

[Carl_n_Susan]

Halmfamily wrote:

therink wrote:
If it were me and I couldn't loosen the drain pipe enough to get flex to unseat the valve, I would likely cut the 3" drain pipe with a saw and reconnect using a 3" fernco connector.
The use of aluminum flashing between the valve seats to remove and reinstall is good advice.

This is how I replaced my 3" valve. Much easier to do if you need access in the future, loosen the two clamps and pull the pipe apart.

This is what I did too. The other advantage is you can control the tightness of the valve connection (i.e. the pressure from the 3" pipe which squeezes the valve housing) to ensure it isn't difficult to open.

[magic43]

I second the motion about adding a 3" Fernco fitting. It makes future valve work a snap.

[enblethen]

OP will still have his leak at the tank. It would better oin the long run to have a professional remove all the gunk, fix the inlet Grommet with one of the tank grommets and replace the valve.

[Halmfamily]

therink wrote:
If it were me and I couldn't loosen the drain pipe enough to get flex to unseat the valve, I would likely cut the 3" drain pipe with a saw and reconnect using a 3" fernco connector.
The use of aluminum flashing between the valve seats to remove and reinstall is good advice.

This is how I replaced my 3" valve. Much easier to do if you need access in the future, loosen the two clamps and pull the pipe apart.

[rhagfo]

ol Bombero-JC wrote:

24fb freedom wrote:
Try looking further down the line to see if there is any brackets you can remove to give it some play.

Been there, done that - loosen brackets to allow movement.

Might be time to re-engineer the entire tank & plumbing set-up.

Whether you drop the tank or not.....
A "standard" (not remote) valve closer to the final exit section
of 3" pipe is great "old school" - easy to access for anything!..:C

.

X2!

I have a leaky grey water valve, the drains on my grey and black tank face each other and connect to a "Y" between the tanks.
I used the I got one of the exit valves, and for now that works, but I really want to correct the valve issue and replace it.

[ol_Bombero-JC]

24fb freedom wrote:
Try looking further down the line to see if there is any brackets you can remove to give it some play.

Been there, done that - loosen brackets to allow movement.

Might be time to re-engineer the entire tank & plumbing set-up.

Whether you drop the tank or not.....
A "standard" (not remote) valve closer to the final exit section
of 3" pipe is great "old school" - easy to access for anything!..:C

.

[newman_fulltime]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Best have some more epoxy on hand..by the time you get that valve out and new in you leak will be back.

Drain line is too rigid hence the hairline crack at tank connection.

Line should be supported but have a little flex to absorb road vibrations.
As suggested...check for bracing that can be loosen/removed on line downstream to allow for some movement.

Have you seen the new two piece tanks that slide back and forth in the rails I have had several that the top seams are broken on from the slidding

[Old-Biscuit]

Best have some more epoxy on hand..by the time you get that valve out and new in you leak will be back.

Drain line is too rigid hence the hairline crack at tank connection.

Line should be supported but have a little flex to absorb road vibrations.
As suggested...check for bracing that can be loosen/removed on line downstream to allow for some movement.