Failing frame on KZ Durango

[jennifer80516]

We noticed the coroplast sagging while changing out the waste tank valve and low and behold the entire frame under the water tank is failing. No telling when the it will snap and we will lose the tank. I've searched a little and have unfortunately found that this is not uncommon.

Why this isn't addressed by the MFG and whoever licenses them is beyond me since this is a safety hazard if it falls while driving.

We need to re-engineer supporting 460# approx. for the 55 gallon tank. Why KZ thought two widely spaced bars was enough, but clearly not. If you have already done this repair, I'd love to see how you fixed it. Please post some photos!

Thanks and happy camping.

[jennifer80516]

Nice, I saw that fix on another string, but like the added plate too.

[jjj]

On my first ever trailer the black tank was the same way. It looked like it was going to fall out. Not knowing what to do I had a old 3 in.wide tow strap. I cut it into sections and ran them from one support under the tank to the other side and bolted them onto the tank supports. As it started to fill up with liquid the tank would start to sag and would be supported by the straps. It work as long as I had that trailer.that was an old 70's trailer and they are still that way

[azrving]

These pics are from another members post iirc and may give you more ideas. You do have a wide span between the rails. The steel in these pics is probably at least 1/8 inch.

OP, as you said, how in the world do they think this is ok? Unbelievable!! If they do think it's ok maybe they should move the drain to the center of the tank or has water now started to run up hill? Duuuhhhh


Whoever these pics belong to: NICE job on your modifications.





They added a plate here:

[Redwoodcamper]

Sad thing is it would have taken the factory about $30 in steel and ten min to brace it up correctly. Any welding shop or garage fabricator could fix that very easily.

[azrving]

While under there you may want to look everything else over good. Not only the other tanks but also the frame and especially the areas around the spring brackets. Cracks may not be real obvious so look for flaws or lines in the paint.

[ford_truck_guy]

I used 3/16" X 1-1/2" aluminum flat on my "08" KZ fifth Wheel.. The tanks are just setting inbetween the 2 rail flanges.

[azrving]

Depending on what the cross supports are riding on you may be able to add more of them. My sons were angle iron with a notch cut out at each end. I was able to slip them up in on top of the side to side pieces. I smoothed the edges and put pieces of inner tube rubber on all of them to provide a little protection for the tank. I cut them long enough that they had to be wiggled into place and they couldn't move. With the weight of just the tank on them they didn't move anyway.

If your main rails are too flimsy you may need to remove the tank and start at square one in making it strong enough. That's a pretty wide span on your set up. Some local steel supply places will sell odds and ends or cut it for you. You're probably looking for something like inch to inch and a half angle in about 3/16 or 1/8 inch thickness. Post more pics as you get into it or have a welding shop help out.

[jennifer80516]

Thank you. I will check out that link. We plan to add more support, but not sure of what shape material and connections. I'm afraid to weld next to a thin plastic tank.

We replaced all the coroplast underneath two years ago (they sell at Home Depot now), with washers like you said because we lost a section on the freeway while transporting rescue dogs. KZ didn't use washers at all so no wonder it ripped off. Worst timing ever since we were meeting halfway to pick up 30 dogs from a kill shelter and were late since we had to rig something up on the side of the freeway.

For the amount of money these things cost, you think they would spend a couple more bucks making customers confident in the quality.

[azrving]

It's because these things are CHEESY! Mine is sort of old school and tough yet I added support to it. My sons 2003 FW was bellied down in between the support bars and I added three pieces of angle iron plus checked the rest of it. I wouldn't think about pulling any new or used rig until I remove any coverings and check everything. There aint no half arse like rv half arse.

We get used to our modern motor vehicles and think that rv's may be the same. When I was a kid I had a go cart and mini bike that constantly needed repairs. I then bought a 1968 Suzuki and rode it everywhere without a problem. RV's are still in that mini bike era or even cheaper and our vehicles are literally like space craft.

On the other hand it can be argued that we couldn't afford to have an rv built like our vehicles so what do we do? Be handy or have a lot of money.....

[Mortimer_Brewst]

Here is a link from another forum that has pictures of some solutions that hopefully will be helpful. It's a long thread. I think pages 5 and 7 had some good pics.
Should you need more Coroplast, you can get 4 x 8 sheets of it at sign shops. Prices on it varied widely when I worked on our KZ. I spent around $16 per sheet. I had to add structure to have something to screw into. Stainless steel screws and fender washers worked well.

[Sandia_Man]

Wow, that is pretty severe for just a single 55 gallon FW tank, obviously way under-engineered. We have a pair of these tanks (110 gal total) on our TH and we often carry them fully filled since we prefer dry camping and boondocking, even when staying at RV parks with hookups we always carry at least one tank full, I would be livid as well if I saw this too. We don't have an underbelly on our rig making it easy to see all of our tanks, although each tank is supported by a single rail on either side, their is no evidence of the slightest sag when filled to max. Unfortunately, this has occurred more than it should to many members of this forum, seems that some manufacturers put them on just for looks as they are not properly supported for long term use. Hopefully the repair isn't too tasking.