Howdy. New Owner With Questions Not Found in the Manuals.

[longbedbob]

My wife and I recently purchased a dealer holdover 2019 Cruiser Aire.

It is currently parked at our weekend cabin while we demolish the old structure and rebuild on site. I ran a dedicated 50 amp RV outlet so it is plugged into shore power.

We've spent a few weekends in and developed an idea for what camper living is about and some of the alterations we'd like to make.

I've also developed a list of questions that I can't seem to find answers to on my own.

1. I have the Renogy 200 watt solar kit and two Interstate 100 AH deep cycle batteries. I understand that they are flooded, lead acid batteries that will require maintenance and that I am limited to 50% depth of discharge. However, my question centers around the charging aspect. Since we are away five days each week, I am concerned that the onboard three stage charge controller will "fight" to maintain a float voltage. Based on the Renogy controller, the battery is maintaing 13.7V. But is this due to solar or the "smart" onboard controller. I'm concerned that one source might be trickle charging while the other, operating at a different set point, might still be boosting. I suppose that I could always open the solar panel breaker, but the power is unreliable there.

2. I had been keeping an eye on the gray and black water tanks. My unit has two gray water tanks. The bath/shower water level was 2/3 and the kitchen tank was 1/3. However, last night the sink was backed up. On a hunch, I drained the front gray water tank and the problem was solved. This leads me to ask two follow up questions: a.) Why did my shower not overflow first? Is there a check valve in place to prevent that? b.) How do I calibrate the water tank sensors to better reflect the water levels? This is a no name, all in control panel with no obvious rheostats to adjust. Could the be on the hidden, back side of the panel?

3. The unit came with a wine chiller. Pardon the ignorance here, as I've never before owned one, but are they useful as a refrigerator? We thought it might work as a second refrigerator but it's been disappointing. No matter the temperature setting it never seems to get cold, yet runs almost all of the time. It might be suitable for chilling wine, but I can't imagine storing food inside for long. I want to ditch it for either a proper dorm style refrigerator or maybe use the space for storage.

4. Back to batteries....if I add two additional flooded batteries for a total of 400AH (200 usable) and a 3000 watt true sine wave inverter, would that be enough surge capacity to handle a microwave without overworking the batteries? I understand that Li Ion would be ideal. Given that this is essentially a trailer that won't move much, I am not concerned about the weight gain but do fuss about the nearly $2000 price tag for the equivalent storage capacity.

I'm sure that there are other questions that will come with time, but knowing how to address these issues will allow to move on to discover others.

Thanks.

[Super_Dave]

At demolition, a post in the ground and a temp panel box. A contractor will do the exact same when new construction starts so just do it now.

[CA_Traveler]

Many of us have advised others to first do a energy audit prior to solar and battery upgrades. My first purchase was a battery monitor that helped define and verify my audit.

[CA_Traveler]

OP No shore power is different than unreliable power so lets back up. Do you need/want power while you are not there and if so for what like refer on propane or AC, etc.

Are you sure you can't have temporary power after demonolation? You're OK with using gens for 6 years for A/C? Without a very large off grid solar farm and battery setup you won't have A/C except with a gen. Or what you already have may be OK to supplement the gen. Perhaps best to go with what you have and develop a plan when the needs are clear.

[pianotuna]

Li batteries won't do anything to produce power. I'd encourage you to use much more solar with conventional batteries. Cost of Solar is under $1 per watt--so single LI would finance a large (for an rv) solar farm.

[longbedbob]

Lots of responses here. Thanks.

Apologies if I don't hit every one.

1. Consensus seems to be there's no harm with using different controllers with different set points for the various stages of charging.

2. Don't trust the levels. 2/3 is the new full. BTW, the shower does drain into the same tank as the bathroom sink. The black water tank was empty. It's never been used but I opened the valve anyway, because some showers do drain there. Dealer said there could be a check valve to help prevent these sorts of oversights from overflowing onto the floor.

3. The wine cooler is an Everchill unit. It is supposed to cool to near freezing but the glass door makes cooling inefficient. It will disappear at some point and be replaced by a conventional dorm fridge.

4. Short power is available until we demolish the old structure. Then it could be 6 months or 6 years until there will be another functioning RV outlet. I do have several generators, including an inverter model that has been converted to run on propane. We tested it for a weekend. 5 hours of daily usage with the AC at max setting and some microwave and TV used 3.5 gallons over on an 11 hour period. Pretty efficient, I'd say. Anyway, rather than add two more panels and two more flooded batteries, perhaps I'd better bite the proverbial bullet and upgrade to Li Ion batteries first. The most painful part would be over with and I'd have the same capacity as I currently do, but would have a better discharge rate and not need to concern myself with battery maintenance. A second battery and set of panels would happen if there was enough electrical demand.

Thanks again for the assistance.

[humblerb]

Agree with Dave on the gray tanks. When we set up, I open both gray tanks and leave them open. I try to remember to close them the day before we are scheduled to leave. If I forget, I close them and turn on the faucets in the kitchen and bathroom and let them fill before breaking camp.
Just something to flush the drain lines after emptying the black tank.
The reason the shower didn't back up is, they are two separate tanks. That is why you have two drain handles.
You just have to learn the tank levels by experience, because the sensors across the board are extremely unreliable. Be sure not to let the black back up, for obvious reasons.

[Rwake901]

It is my understanding that most “wine coolers” only cool down to around 40 degrees. I purchased one for my work and that’s what the instructions said.

[Super_Dave]

CA Traveler wrote:
Dave, He posted unreliable shore power.

Must have missed that. Generator as alternate power source is still my answer if microwave and air conditioning is in play.

[CA_Traveler]

Dave, He posted unreliable shore power.

[Super_Dave]

1) Why not leave it plugged into shore power 100% of the time?
2) Are you dumping into a septic system for the cabin? I leave my gray valves open until a day before dumping my black tank for flushing the line purposes.
3) Put a thermometer in it and see what temperature you are really getting.
4) Still not understanding concerns about batteries if you have shore power. Since you are living in the trailer, a generator of ocassional use would be the best solution for off grid power.

[CA_Traveler]

I've had 3 compatible battery charge sources: solar, alternator and gen/charger while driving. No problems. And shore plus solar is SOP.

The typical idiot tank level sensors only serve one purpose: The salesman tells you what a great monitor system you have. My fresh water one is reasonable.

The ideal wine tempeature is 57F and it's not a refer.

MW will be fine. But be aware that they can draw 150A DC so the typical few minutes of use is best. But be aware that at those draws proper wiring is critical - ie short and big.

[Big_Katuna]

We had a wine cooler. We used it to store bottled water. We replaced it with a 2’ cubic foot fridge/freezer which can be adjusted to be a fridge OR a freezer.

Ignore the Guages.

[StirCrazy]

I have 470 ah of batteries ( 4, 6V 235AH ) with a 2000 watt inverter. We can use the microwave and coffee pot as long as it isnt to crazy. I also have 480 watts of solar and when the 5th wheel isnt being used it is pluged in and I have had no issues with the solar power and chager both feeding for the last 4 years.

Steve

[pianotuna]

1. My solar charge controller "plays well" with the OEM converter in my RV.

2. The idiot lights for water levels are rather rarely accurate, except for the fresh water tank.

3. Sorry don't know

4. I won't likely ever get LI. My next set of jars will be based on SiO2 which can be charged and used at -40. Currently SiO2 are about 1/3 the price of LI. The 3000 watt inverter will easily power the microwave. The inverter would be happy with 400 amp-hours, so long as the cables to it are short and FAT.