Rough Ride

[pyoung47]

Last fall, I installed a set of Sailun tires on my Montana, upgrading to G rated tires. I’m running only 90-95 pounds in the tires. They are shaking the camper quite a bit. Last week, we cravked three crock pots on the way home. Does anyone else experience this?

[RollandB]

Cummins12V98 wrote:


Load and proper inflation is the way to go. There is a reason they make load/inflation chart for every tire.

This is exactly what Sailun told me when I inquired on the appropriate psi to run out ours. In fact they provided a bit of education to the different wear problems from over inflation (not just what you would expect from more wear in the center of the tire). The psi I run is less that the OP has his set at.

An FYI, I put Sailun on ours two years ago. Balance and the fifth wheel had factory shocks on each tire. A year ago I replaced the shocks with Monroe Gas Magnums when I put on a SRE4000 equalizer. Axle max is 6000, weight on the two axles is about 11,000 lbs. We haven’t had anything inside break and not one door or drawer opened since the Sailun s were installed.

At the time I was replacing two year old Marathons, GY had just come out with the Endurance so very little feedback on them. Plus, I wasn’t thrilled to add to GY pockets after they profited from selling **** Marathons to thousands.

[ol_Bombero-JC]

laknox wrote:

pyoung47 wrote:
Last fall, I installed a set of Sailun tires on my Montana, upgrading to G rated tires. I’m running only 90-95 pounds in the tires. They are shaking the camper quite a bit. Last week, we cravked three crock pots on the way home. Does anyone else experience this?

WAY overkill on the tires. Bet it's placarded for D tires, so E tires would have been much more appropriate. I'd say run them at 70-80 and see how it rides. Sell the Sailuns and get some Endurance.

Lyle

Ditto on the "overkill"!..:R

WHY the G rated tires??..:h

Lowering the psi probably won't help...:(

Shocks are good - if you don't have them already - but not going to solve the "overkill".

Trlr in his profile = 29 ft and he had E rated tires previously.

If true - why unhappy with 'em?

(IMO X-2) Sell those "G" tires, and go back to a quality "E"...:W

.

[Cummins12V98]

jaycocamprs wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:


2.5 years with an excellent record is not long enough?

Not when I'm replacing 5 year old tires. Even Marathons were good for maybe 2 years,

2.5 years and not one non road hazard failure that has been mentioned I think that's good enough.

I have two years on my Boat Trailer ENDURANCE tires. They hold air well never needing to add, TowMaster spare needs air often. I also am in and out of Salt Water constantly plus tow at 70.

[jaycocamprs]

Cummins12V98 wrote:


2.5 years with an excellent record is not long enough?

Not when I'm replacing 5 year old tires. Even Marathons were good for maybe 2 years,

[Cummins12V98]

jaycocamprs wrote:
Well I also running Sailuns on 6K axles. When I replaced the R-250's there were not alot of "quality" choices. The Sailuns were quite a bit less the Michelin XPS Ribs and Bridgestone Duravis R-238s. Not sure if I want to beta test the Goodyear Endurance, and the other ST's are JUNK.

2.5 years with an excellent record is not long enough?

[jaycocamprs]

Well I also running Sailuns on 6K axles. When I replaced the R-250's there were not alot of "quality" choices. The Sailuns were quite a bit less the Michelin XPS Ribs and Bridgestone Duravis R-238s. Not sure if I want to beta test the Goodyear Endurance, and the other ST's are JUNK.

[RCMAN46]

"BALANCE YOUR TIRES! Tire shops do not usually balance trailer tires BUT if you don't it can shake the camper to bits"

X2 on this statement from another poster.

The cost is minimal and I am sure it will correct the problem.

I balance my trailer tires and run balance beads to compensate for the fact trailer drums if the trailer has drum brakes that are not balanced.

I have several times forgot and left items on the dinning room table. Even after a couple hundred miles I have found the items are still on the table.

[Cummins12V98]

ACZL wrote:

Me Again wrote:

ACZL wrote:
If a tire is rated for 110 psi and ran less psi, wouldn't this cause a issue due to "under inflation"? Still think a name brand E ply LT tire is best bet. Ran LT's on our '06 Cedar Creek (13,800 fully loaded) at 80 psi for 12 years and no probs.

I ran Michelin XPS Ribs and Bridgestone Duravis R250s on our 12,400 lb 5er for years. Original LT235/85R16E china bombs called for 65 psi. I found that the Ribs were wearing a little more in the out edges so I upper inflation to 71 PSI and had even wear. Inflation is based on the load the tires actually carry, not their maximum inflation. In several calls to Michelin, they always stated that over inflation for the load carried can lead to impact damage and reduced braking ability.

Tires state MAX Load XXXX at YYY PSI. On passenger car and LT tires there on inflation charts that are universal across all brands for the same size and load range tire.

Along came cheap ST tires and it is my belief that inflation to max side number is just a bandaid that manufactures tried to stick on the tires, because high failure rates. Finally after many years there are now better ST tires available.

Inflation charts for ST tires seem to vary by manufacture if they exist at all, as they comply with different standards(think lesser).

Still a little puzzled because most blowouts from what I gather are due to underinflation.

Load and proper inflation is the way to go. There is a reason they make load/inflation chart for every tire.

[fj12ryder]

ACZL wrote:
...
Still a little puzzled because most blowouts from what I gather are due to underinflation.

That's speculation, since it's pretty hard to tell what happened to cause a blowout after the fact. Most are put down to under inflation, and the subsequent heat rise and flex induced blowout.

But obviously it's pretty hard to nail down exactly what the cause was. And tire makers use under inflation as an excuse to get out of having to pay for lousy tires.

[Bipeflier]

BALANCE YOUR TIRES! Tire shops do not usually balance trailer tires BUT if you don't it can shake the camper to bits.

Running G rated tires at less than maximum pressure will not likely cause shaking as long as the pressure used is adequate for the trailer weight. Goodyear publishes an inflation chart for their G614's for that very purpose. On mine I run 90 psi.

[ACZL]

Me Again wrote:

ACZL wrote:
If a tire is rated for 110 psi and ran less psi, wouldn't this cause a issue due to "under inflation"? Still think a name brand E ply LT tire is best bet. Ran LT's on our '06 Cedar Creek (13,800 fully loaded) at 80 psi for 12 years and no probs.

I ran Michelin XPS Ribs and Bridgestone Duravis R250s on our 12,400 lb 5er for years. Original LT235/85R16E china bombs called for 65 psi. I found that the Ribs were wearing a little more in the out edges so I upper inflation to 71 PSI and had even wear. Inflation is based on the load the tires actually carry, not their maximum inflation. In several calls to Michelin, they always stated that over inflation for the load carried can lead to impact damage and reduced braking ability.

Tires state MAX Load XXXX at YYY PSI. On passenger car and LT tires there on inflation charts that are universal across all brands for the same size and load range tire.

Along came cheap ST tires and it is my belief that inflation to max side number is just a bandaid that manufactures tried to stick on the tires, because high failure rates. Finally after many years there are now better ST tires available.

Inflation charts for ST tires seem to vary by manufacture if they exist at all, as they comply with different standards(think lesser).

Still a little puzzled because most blowouts from what I gather are due to underinflation.

[Me_Again]

ACZL wrote:
If a tire is rated for 110 psi and ran less psi, wouldn't this cause a issue due to "under inflation"? Still think a name brand E ply LT tire is best bet. Ran LT's on our '06 Cedar Creek (13,800 fully loaded) at 80 psi for 12 years and no probs.

I ran Michelin XPS Ribs and Bridgestone Duravis R250s on our 12,400 lb 5er for years. Original LT235/85R16E china bombs called for 65 psi. I found that the Ribs were wearing a little more in the out edges so I upper inflation to 71 PSI and had even wear. Inflation is based on the load the tires actually carry, not their maximum inflation. In several calls to Michelin, they always stated that over inflation for the load carried can lead to impact damage and reduced braking ability.

Tires state MAX Load XXXX at YYY PSI. On passenger car and LT tires there on inflation charts that are universal across all brands for the same size and load range tire.

Along came cheap ST tires and it is my belief that inflation to max side number is just a bandaid that manufactures tried to stick on the tires, because high failure rates. Finally after many years there are now better ST tires available.

Inflation charts for ST tires seem to vary by manufacture if they exist at all, as they comply with different standards(think lesser).

[ACZL]

If a tire is rated for 110 psi and ran less psi, wouldn't this cause a issue due to "under inflation"? Still think a name brand E ply LT tire is best bet. Ran LT's on our '06 Cedar Creek (13,800 fully loaded) at 80 psi for 12 years and no probs.

[Cummins12V98]

pyoung47 wrote:
Thanks for all of the replies. I'm going to play with air pressure a bit, and see if I can mitigate some of the issues. Selling/replacing the tires is not a realistic option, since I don't want to throw $700-800 bucks away.

I went from "E" to "G" GY's. The "E" tries were ran at 80psi because the load dictated that. The G's were ran at 85 because load dictated 80 and GY recommends when up sizing load range to add 5psi to what the chart says.

The tires wore perfectly and ride was great over many thousands of miles. Weigh your rig!