Best house battery?

[drumz]

Hi guys.
I'm sure this discussion is somewhere on here, I can't seem to find it.
Anyway my house battery has died. It was a Lifeline AGM deep cycle. These batteries are pricey and heavy! Someone told me that I don't really need an AGM battery, that a good quality deep cycle is cheaper,lighter and will actually hold a better charge.
I did some research and found that AGM batteries are better for vibration resistance, but really your engine battery takes the same amount of shakes and bumps that the house battery would right?
So what are your thoughts? Pay the extra for a AGM, or just go with a top of the line deep cycle?
Jerry, Penna.

[pianotuna]

pnichols wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
My next set will be SiO2. They can withstand 620 cycles to stone bone dead. Self discharge rate is 1.6% per month.

Don ... yeah, I kindof agree ... if:

1. They were available in Group 31 size instead of Group 27 size,
and

2. They could be charged directly by any good old run-of-the-mill engine alternator without burning up the alternator,
and

3. They could be charged if you wanted to and without damaging them or the converter by any good old run-of-the-mill 13.8 volt converter that used to come in many RVs.

IAW ... if certain SiO2 batteries were finally true 12V DROP-IN REPLACEMENTS for 12V deep cycle AGM batteries (the AGM batteries that charge good enough from a stock fixed voltage converter and don't ruin stock alternators) ... then I might consider the SiO2 batteries, eventually.

IMHO ... I feel that Battle Born batteries aren't quite there yet unless you have plenty of $$$$ to spend AFTER spending the $$$$ for the BB batteries themselves. :S

1. Actually they have a 100 amp-hour which might be a group 27, but I don't see why a group 31 would be more useful. Batteries are available in a wide range of sizes and voltages, even up to 270Ah 12V 8D batteries

2. SiO2 batteries charge similar to other lead acid chemistries – 14.4V – 14.7V boost/bulk and 13.5V – 13.8V float charge. Like lithium ion, no equalization is needed. Charging rate is C/4.

3. No problem charging from an alternator, because the alternator will see the chassis battery first--and taper accordingly.

They do not require charging to 100%.

The 100 amp-hour can have a draw rate of 900 amps.

[pnichols]

pianotuna wrote:
My next set will be SiO2. They can withstand 620 cycles to stone bone dead. Self discharge rate is 1.6% per month.

Don ... yeah, I kindof agree ... if:

1. They were available in Group 31 size instead of Group 27 size,
and

2. They could be charged directly by any good old run-of-the-mill engine alternator without burning up the alternator,
and

3. They could be charged if you wanted to and without damaging them or the converter by any good old run-of-the-mill 13.8 volt converter that used to come in many RVs.

IAW ... if certain SiO2 batteries were finally true 12V DROP-IN REPLACEMENTS for 12V deep cycle AGM batteries (the AGM batteries that charge good enough from a stock fixed voltage converter and don't ruin stock alternators) ... then I might consider the SiO2 batteries, eventually.

IMHO ... I feel that Battle Born batteries aren't quite there yet unless you have plenty of $$$$ to spend AFTER spending the $$$$ for the BB batteries themselves. :S

[pianotuna]

My next set will be SiO2. They can withstand 620 cycles to stone bone dead. Self discharge rate is 1.6% per month.

[whemme]

My opinion on a lot of these types of questions is that if there truly was a one and only one best house battery, it would be the only one left on the market.

[pnichols]

drumz wrote:
Well we don't use the motorhome that much. We vend at festivals, so we boondock alot. Sometimes we get electrical hook ups, it's rare though. The battery compartment is under the unit. And I guess I would rather not mess with checking water and stuff.I think the smoke/propane alarm runs down the battery, cause it's always dead after a few weeks of sitting. We don't leave the rv plugged in, as thats how our old rv caught on fire.
Isn't there a maint free deep cycle?

There are maint free liquid acid (non AGM) batteries - their tops are sealed so no access to their interior water/acid mix and no water needs to be, or can be, added.

However, probably you're best bet for a maint free RV battery would be an AGM battery (there isn't any liquid inside them).

Now regarding an AGM battery: A deep cycle type AGM battery is what you should use in your RV. That is ... a "true" deep cycle AGM battery - not a "combination" deep cycle/starting AGM battery that can be both a starting battery and (kindof) a deep cycle battery. AGM batteries come in both types.

I have a "starting" type AGM battery under the hood in my pickup. In my RV I have true deep cyle AGM batteries not intended for engine starting use. Of course they are zero maintenance and don't even have to be on a maintenance charger for months at a time - if it isn't convenient when one's RV isn't being used.

A true deep AGM battery will not be inexpensive, however. I had to get mine at a battery distributor. You probably can't walk into a Walmart or auto store and find these type AGM batteries. One source for them is marine supply stores. Other sources might be golf cart or industrial equipment battery suppliers.

For instance, the ones I have in our RV are popular for marine use, but almost never commonly found in RVs. Mine are "standard size" Group 31 12 volt true deep cycle AGM batteries that are rated at 115 amp hours each, and weigh about 72 lbs. each. The two of these hooked up in parallel provide 230 amp hours of storage, of which only about one-half of that 230 amp hours should be used at a time before charging.

[2oldman]

drumz wrote:
.I think the smoke/propane alarm runs down the battery, cause it's always dead after a few weeks of sitting...We don't leave the rv plugged in, as that's how our old rv caught on fire.

No battery will survive that for very long. You may be a good candidate for solar if you won't plug in.

[bobndot]

Yes, you can use a maintenance free wet cell. If you use two batteries, make sure they are both the same size and age otherwise the charging and depletion might be off sync.

Detectors : Pull the fuse when you store it or install a toggle switch on the detectors if its running down your batts.
Simply unscrew the detector, pull it off the wall and you will see the two thin wires powering it. Spice the toggle switch into the wiring and install the switch next to the detector. Use it when you need to.
Another option is to install a knife switch onto the battery terminal to kill the power when you park it.

[CA_Traveler]

time2roll wrote:

drumz wrote:
Well we don't use the motorhome that much. We vend at festivals, so we boondock alot. Sometimes we get electrical hook ups, it's rare though. The battery compartment is under the unit. And I guess I would rather not mess with checking water and stuff.I think the smoke/propane alarm runs down the battery, cause it's always dead after a few weeks of sitting. We don't leave the rv plugged in, as thats how our old rv caught on fire.
Isn't there a maint free deep cycle?

Ah Ha!

Really need to install a disconnect switch so the battery does not discharge. AGM can sit fully charged for 8 to 12 months and still operate fine if it is disconnected. Left for dead the battery sulfates causing permanent capacity loss.

Next to check would be your charging system and I assume you are using a generator to give a daily recharge. Post the converter model numbers for best answers. If you park in the sun 100 to 300 watts solar would make a huge difference.

Absolutely, I have full disconnect switches on both banks. :B

[CA_Traveler]

drumz wrote:
Isn't there a maint free deep cycle?

Absolutely AGMs. Sorry couldn't resist. :B

How about a maintenance free Marine Deep Cycle battery. It's deep cycle because the label say so!

Or just what is it?

OK Yes they exist even true Deep Cycle. Hold your nose and raise your CC.

[time2roll]

drumz wrote:
Well we don't use the motorhome that much. We vend at festivals, so we boondock alot. Sometimes we get electrical hook ups, it's rare though. The battery compartment is under the unit. And I guess I would rather not mess with checking water and stuff.I think the smoke/propane alarm runs down the battery, cause it's always dead after a few weeks of sitting. We don't leave the rv plugged in, as thats how our old rv caught on fire.
Isn't there a maint free deep cycle?

Ah Ha!

Really need to install a disconnect switch so the battery does not discharge. AGM can sit fully charged for 8 to 12 months and still operate fine if it is disconnected. Left for dead the battery sulfates causing permanent capacity loss.

Next to check would be your charging system and I assume you are using a generator to give a daily recharge. Post the converter model numbers for best answers. If you park in the sun 100 to 300 watts solar would make a huge difference.

[MDKMDK]

drumz wrote:
Well we don't use the motorhome that much. We vend at festivals, so we boondock alot. Sometimes we get electrical hook ups, it's rare though. The battery compartment is under the unit. And I guess I would rather not mess with checking water and stuff.I think the smoke/propane alarm runs down the battery, cause it's always dead after a few weeks of sitting. We don't leave the rv plugged in, as thats how our old rv caught on fire.
Isn't there a maint free deep cycle?

Deep cycles come as AGMs, too. Google is your friend.

[drumz]

Well we don't use the motorhome that much. We vend at festivals, so we boondock alot. Sometimes we get electrical hook ups, it's rare though. The battery compartment is under the unit. And I guess I would rather not mess with checking water and stuff.I think the smoke/propane alarm runs down the battery, cause it's always dead after a few weeks of sitting. We don't leave the rv plugged in, as thats how our old rv caught on fire.
Isn't there a maint free deep cycle?

[bobndot]

The 6v batts might be a little taller make sure you have room.


If you accidently deplete an AGM below 50% it might be more forgiving once its charged back up but I have found in the 12v models, that AGM and wet cells were both fine for my off grid camping needs.

What I do is carry a third 12v AGM battery that I run my 150w inverter off of when needed. I store it inside my toad and use it inside the rv on the floor out of the way.
That battery is charged with my solar system or my genny off a separate smart charger that accepts agm charging rates.
I use that for my 12v 40" tv that draws 5 amps :M.
That battery also operates my Dish Network recvr. off the little inverter. Doing it that way saves the coach bank for my stereo system , lighting, furnace if I should need it and vent fans.

[MDKMDK]

LiFePO4. They're now down to only about twice the cost of a top end AGM, if you're going that route. It will probably outlast your motorhome/RV. Do an internet search on lithium versus FLA, and there are more than a few videos that compare and contrast them.

[Gjac]

I don’t think the average rver can go wrong with he Sams Club 6v GC batteries. Mine are now 13 years old and still working fine. I dry camp 95% of the time but don’t watch tv or internet usage (minimal electrical reqs). If you don’t mine proper maintenance and adding water they will serve you well at a much lower cost. If you don’t want to be bothered with maintenance the AGM might be a better choice.