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Good, affordable place to set up for towing?

Danpaine
Explorer
Explorer
Hi there, Folks. My wife and I are interested in towing our car
for trips. I’m not terribly handy and am not confident about
Installing the tow package myself, and our usual RV service place
just quoted us over $6,000 to do the job, which seems outrageous.
Does anyone have any tips where I can go to get set up for a
reasonable price? Thank you.
2016 Forest River Forester
13 REPLIES 13

bobndot
Explorer II
Explorer II
We work as a team 🙂 Tnx for providing the links . Its always interesting to read the experiences of others in our field. That’s how we learn. At least me it is 🙂

Yes, whatever your comfortable doing. No mechanical problems in ten years of me towing it.
The rv dealer wired my plug setup but i did ask my GM dealer before having it done. Explained as , people were misplacing the fuse or forgetting it , Its just an alternate method to use.

Warranty , a valid point. Tnx for bringing it up, i forgot to mention that. Its something to think about especislly if you have no relation to your dealer.
In my case, the new car warranty would not be affected but that would depend on your relationship with your dealer.
My rv dealer hardwired my harness to my car. We figured it was one less thing to try not to forget. :B. I just coil it up and tie it securely with velcro straps. The engine hood closes just fine with the harness coiled and stored as well as when being used to tow.

At the end of the day , i prefer to leave the toad home. At 24’ , i can drive and park my rv at most places without incident. Its my DW that feels the need to have the extra 4 tires. The older i get, the less i want to do, to set up and break down is getting old. If we really have a special need for a car , i have an account with Enterprise. They deliver cars to my campsite. Its infrequent and you have to rent often to exceed the cost of a new tow setup. I keep telling myself KISS !

MDKMDK
Explorer
Explorer
If they put it in the Owner's Manual, under towing the vehicle, it's there for a reason.
If it were me, I would pull the fuse, as it's simpler than running a new battery charging line through the 7 pin wiring connector between motorhome and towed. There's no additional wiring, or inline fusing required, as would be for an extra separate battery charging circuit.
However, do whatever you feel comfortable with, since you're probably not under warranty on the Equinox any more, anyway.

Some more brief discussions on removing Fuse 32, or not.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f85/fuse-32-on-equinox-or-terrain-319950.html
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f85/fuse-32-in-the-equinox-and-terrain-who-needs-it-333497.html
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/equinox-fuse-32-a-317746.html
Mike. Comments are anecdotal or personal opinions, and worth what you paid for them.
2018 (2017 Sprinter Cab Chassis) Navion24V + 2016 Wrangler JKU (sold @ ????)
2016 Sunstar 26HE, V10, 3V, 6 Speed (sold @ 4600 miles)
2002 Roadtrek C190P (sold @ 315,000kms)

bobndot
Explorer II
Explorer II
If you include a 12v charge line thru your lighting harness there is no need to pull the fuse. I think you need to start and idle the GM’s every 200 towing miles.

MDKMDK
Explorer
Explorer
Don't forget to pull/replace Fuse 32 to keep battery from running down during travel. Key in ACC position, transmission in N neutral. All accessories off.
Good to go, from pages 259-260 "Dinghy Towing" the vehicle in the OM.
(before driving, after towing, idle engine for 3 minutes - plus some other caveats)
Mike. Comments are anecdotal or personal opinions, and worth what you paid for them.
2018 (2017 Sprinter Cab Chassis) Navion24V + 2016 Wrangler JKU (sold @ ????)
2016 Sunstar 26HE, V10, 3V, 6 Speed (sold @ 4600 miles)
2002 Roadtrek C190P (sold @ 315,000kms)

Danpaine
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the advice, everybody. I do have a good auto mechanic I do trust, I'll check with him - hadn't occurred to me a regular mechanic may take care of it. Towing a 2016 Chevy Equinox, by the way. Chose the vehicle because it can be flat-towed with no modifications.
2016 Forest River Forester

RetiredRealtorR
Explorer
Explorer
What will you be towing?
. . . never confuse education with intelligence, nor motion with progress

LadyRVer
Explorer
Explorer
On one set-up, I got a used Blue Ox tow bar, new base plate, a used Brake Buddy Classic supplemental braking system and all the wiring for around 1800.00, from a RV dealer. Their service dept did all the work. Lasted me for several years. Installed price. I would go that route again.

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
That's the "We don't know what it involves and we don't want to do it" price.

AJR
Explorer
Explorer
Bobndot, your write up above provided good advice.

I bought a used towbar years ago and still use it. I have always bought the baseplate (3 times) and had the local autobody repair shop install them. On every towed car I have had the local auto repair shop install the wires for magnetic mount tail lights and breakaway wires for my Brake Buddy.

I will say, if I were to buy a new towbar. It would be one of those advertised with surge braking. They sound much simpler to use.

I do not think setting up each car was close to $1500.
2007 Roadtrek 210 Popular
2015 GMC Terrain AWD

MDKMDK
Explorer
Explorer
If you wanna pull a late model Wrangler, 4 down/flat tow, it probably doesn't have a steering wheel lock. My 2016 doesn't. Makes towing much easier.
FYI.
Mike. Comments are anecdotal or personal opinions, and worth what you paid for them.
2018 (2017 Sprinter Cab Chassis) Navion24V + 2016 Wrangler JKU (sold @ ????)
2016 Sunstar 26HE, V10, 3V, 6 Speed (sold @ 4600 miles)
2002 Roadtrek C190P (sold @ 315,000kms)

bobndot
Explorer II
Explorer II
Any 'good automotive mechanic' can do this installation. It may sound complex and complicated but its bolt-on stuff and simple electric connections. I would buy your parts as listed below and find an rv mobile mechanic or ask around various car repair shops. You'll find someone a lot cheaper that 6K. A lot of mechanics own rvs and know what to do.

you have two options:
1. flat tow - all 4 wheels on ground .
only certain vehicles can do that, you'll need to verify your vehicle.

My new complete Blue Ox system cost me maybe $2500-$3000 for parts and took my auto mechanic 2-3 hours labor. Buying used will be less but you'll need to shop around on line.

2. dolly tow - you'll need to buy a tow dolly that hitches to the rv. Again cost of a new dolly and setup 'might be ?' a little less than flat towing and used will be less.
The cars front wheels drive onto the dolly while its rear wheels roll on the ground. You have a wider range of vehicles to tow , like most FWD cars with automatic transmissions can be dolly towed. The down side is parking a dolly and some maintenance, tires, brakes, bearings,lights.

if your choice is to flat tow , Supply us with year make model or google your vehicle to see if its flat towable or not.

if you want to flat tow , you'll need :
1.Baseplate You need to find an available baseplate to fit your car, this is most important part of this setup, due to availability.

This is the front hitch that gets bolted to the car. Its specific to your car. The rest is generic stuff with the exception of the electric lighting harness , if you choose to use one. You have an option or two with lights.

2. Tow bar ,
this is the metal adjustable 'all terrain type' set of V-shaped arms that connect to the the rv's 2"x2" hitch receiver and to the towed car. They have tow ratings to match the weight range of what vehicle you plan to tow.

3. the baseplate will usually have two ports to accept the tow bar arms allowing a solid connection to the rv.

4. safety chains,
these 2 chains or steel cables make a connection between the car and the rv hitch in case of an emergency breakdown of the tow bar. Its part of the breakaway safety system.

5. Breakaway switch.
This switch gets installed on the front of the car and gets wired into the cars brake system.
In case the towed car becomes separated from the rv, an attached cable will pull a pin on the breakaway switch causing the brakes to be applied on the towed vehicle.

6. Brake system.
Like a 'BRAKE BUDDY 2' its wireless, it simply sits on the toads floor and connects electronically plugs in thru the access port under the dash, then easily clamps onto the brake pedal.
the towed car will need something to apply its brakes when the rv brakes are applied. You add it and remove it when you need to tow. Its very simple and easy to do.

7. Lights on the 'toad', the towed car.
you will need to have lights on the toad as you would need lights on a trailer.
The car being towed needs a harness and electric cable to connect the toad to the rvs 7 way 12v connector.
You have 3 options, use a dedicated car harness, use magnetic lights
or drill holes in the taillight housing of the toad to accept bulbs dedicated for towing.
If you choose drilling holes and running some wire to the front of the car as i did, i turn on the cars running lights for added illumination at night or in rain. Otherwise you will only have tail lights, directions and brake lights which is fine for daytime towing.
A 12v charge line can be added to the harness of either setup to keep the cars battery charged while towing. A good idea for either setup !

You will need to unlock the steering wheel while towing the car. On my GM car, i need to turn the ignition one click to unlock the steering wheel to the AUX position. If you click it 2x, then you will be in the 'ON' position which will record your mileage on the towed car. There is no real need to do that. You don't need the entire dash to light up, you just need to unlock the steering.

If you need specif help as to what to buy or links that show you how to set up the towing system, let us know and we will send you any links you need.

Good place to start:
Etrailer.com , has all the towing parts you'll need and videos on installation of each part.
Youtube will also have how-to videos that show the set up the system of your choice.

Good luck, hope this info gives you a better idea of things ,
Bob

MDKMDK
Explorer
Explorer
If it's on an MB Sprinter chassis, make sure the vehicle you want to tow doesn't overwhelm your towing limitations. If you can get the RV weight down to under 10,500lbs loaded for travel, you should be able to pull around 4500lbs of towed, also loaded for travel with a little wiggle room to spare.
Mike. Comments are anecdotal or personal opinions, and worth what you paid for them.
2018 (2017 Sprinter Cab Chassis) Navion24V + 2016 Wrangler JKU (sold @ ????)
2016 Sunstar 26HE, V10, 3V, 6 Speed (sold @ 4600 miles)
2002 Roadtrek C190P (sold @ 315,000kms)

way2roll
Nomad III
Nomad III
Yeah, that's nuts. Any local garage should be able to manage it for you. Most base plates can be put on easily, but usually the front fascia needs to be removed. More time consuming than complicated. Lights and braking systems add to the complexity. That's why I went with the ready brute elite bars with built in brake. Only one mechanical cable to connect. You could get magnetic tow lights to further simplify the install.

On edit, you might find that buying the base plates yourself is cheaper than having them source them. Just call a shop and say you bought them, but ask them how much to install. Several phone calls should give you an average price.
2023 FR Sunseeker 2400B MBS