How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

[whiteknight001]

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[eyeteeth]

Very much doubt it was coolant. It's actually much more under control now. I checked the coolant level and it was seemed to actually be under a little pressure still... after cooling back down since yesterday.

[TreeSeeker]

Griff wrote:
In terms of the odor from steaming coolant leaks -- put some coolant, with antifreeze, in something metal that you can throw away. Heat it up to a full rolling boil. The steam coming off it will be very close to the odor that indicates radiator boil-over or coolant leaks

Be advised, even breathing ethylene glycol is not good for you--it is toxic.

Animals like the taste of it so clean up any spills. It only takes a little for toxic effects.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

In terms of the odor from steaming coolant leaks -- put some coolant, with antifreeze, in something metal that you can throw away. Heat it up to a full rolling boil. The steam coming off it will be very close to the odor that indicates radiator boil-over or coolant leaks.

Do this outdoors and definitely dispose of whatever you used to heat it up afterwards.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

eyeteeth wrote:
It’s Red... how clear do you want it?

Ok... it’s a little dark, but it’s still red on my towel. I will have to pull the dipstick and try taking a good whiff when I get back.

I just reread my first post. That was terrible. My fault I guess for posting from my iPad while out and about.

Smell is really going to tell if you're having problems.

It should be very clear ... you should be able to read the lettering on the dipstick through it. If it's dark, it (and the filter) needs to be changed. It may just be old. Burnt smell will really tell you the difference between just old fluid and possible problems.

[eyeteeth]

It’s Red... how clear do you want it?

Ok... it’s a little dark, but it’s still red on my towel. I will have to pull the dipstick and try taking a good whiff when I get back.

I just reread my first post. That was terrible. My fault I guess for posting from my iPad while out and about.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

eyeteeth wrote:
Well, this one thing after another is getting to me. I ended up need My a new PCB board for me generator, voltage regulator, and the tuffy... a stator. Bought a second genset to rob parts off. Everything there is happier, get it put back in, and drive the unit home.

On the way... doesn’t seem to want to go up hill well. In my driveway... I see a little smoke or steam from the engine compartment and am pretty sure I’m smelling clutch... but.... not sure.

I really don’t want to ask for all ya all’s opinion... but where to start... what to take a look at? Has maybe 75,000 miles...

Smell and look at your transmission fluid. Does it smell 'burnt?' Is it murky or clear?

Look for coolant leaks. Steam from coolant leaks has a distinct odor but it takes a bit of experience to recognize it and it's hard to describe.

[eyeteeth]

Oh yea, who was asking about A/C placement info stuff?

[eyeteeth]

Well, this one thing after another is getting to me. I ended up need My a new PCB board for me generator, voltage regulator, and the tuffy... a stator. Bought a second genset to rob parts off. Everything there is happier, get it put back in, and drive the unit home.

On the way... doesn’t seem to want to go up hill well. In my driveway... I see a little smoke or steam from the engine compartment and am pretty sure I’m smelling clutch... but.... not sure.

I really don’t want to ask for all ya all’s opinion... but where to start... what to take a look at? Has maybe 75,000 miles...

[BitsPerSecond]

StingrayL82 wrote:
Holy **** that was one ugly cord! I can't stand seeing that gauge cord with regular electrical tape around it, it should have heavy-duty heat shrink tube around it.

Be careful with interior work, one small project turns into a gutted rig, LOL! Ask me how I know. 🙂

That's why it had to go! Don't get me started on the tape. They didn't even use real tape, it was the cheap stuff.

(Edit: I feel I should note that when I said I "cut the end off the splice", I meant that I got rid of the splice and just put a new end on he now shorter cord.)

I need to see what the damage is, but worst case, I rebuild the entire overcab. I knew going into this project that it was a possibility. But I know what you mean.

There are a lot of wants that I'd like to do to the camper. But I also don't want to gut the whole thing right now. I've decided to tackle one thing at a time in the interior and while I have it apart I can do some extras. For instance, while I have the overcab apart I plan on sealing it up good, adding insulation, and running some wiring for future electric. I'll have those walls open anyway so it makes sense to do it all now. That is the plan anyway.

StingrayL82 wrote:
...If anyone is interested, here are the correct part numbers for the MB300:

Mopar 185° Thermostat - 3512998/4131239
Power Brake Booster - Cardone 54-73121
Brake Master Cylinder - Cardone 13-1339
Right Brake Caliper - Cardone 184073S
Left Brake Caliper - Cardone 184074S
Front Brake Pads - Bendix MKD86FM
Right Brake Cylinder - AC Delco 18E855
Left Brake Cylinder - AC Delco 18E889
Rear Brake Shoes - AC Delco 17314R
Front Brake Hoses - Raybestos BH36718
Rear Center Brake Hose - Raybestos BH36963
Exhaust Manifold Gaskets - Fel-Pro MS90460
Heater Hose, 1/2" x 6' - Dayco 80291
Heater Hose, 5/8" x 6' - Dayco 80292

Thanks! Not sure how many of those will be the same on the MB400, but I'll make a note all the same.

[StingrayL82]

VintageMopar wrote:
There was also about 8 qts left that are old stuff that was in the clutch packs, pistons, drums and torque converter.
Good call on the synthetic and it does call for dexron, but synth is superior

Thankfully mine is dry. My builder told me not to fill it, until the day I fire up the engine. His advice was to put 7qts in, start the engine in neutral, and immediately add 2qts. Then drop to 1st gear for several seconds, go to 2nd for several seconds, then Drive for several seconds, then Reverse for several seconds & finally Park. Shut the engine off and check the level & add as necessary. He said I want to be on the lower side of the dipstick when it’s cold, because the fluid expands when it’s warm.

[VintageMopar]

There was also about 8 qts left that are old stuff that was in the clutch packs, pistons, drums and torque converter.
Good call on the synthetic and it does call for dexron, but synth is superior

[j-d]

Eric Hysteric wrote:
You are in Germany now?

No Sir, we're back in Florida. Golden Wedding Anniversary trip. We flew to Zurich 21APR and had two days in that area. Then the Rhine cruise (Viking) to Amsterdam 01MAY. Got to see the Tulip Gardens but didn't take the windmill tour or boat ride around the canals. Took train to Hamburg 03MAY. SO much easier than flying Eurowings! Hospital 03-08MAY then we took a train trip down to Munich and Edelweiss Resort in Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Beautiful trip! Then on to Berlin for a couple days and flew out 22MAY. We hope to get back before the family transfers out in a year or so. If you've got PM up, I'll let you know if/when we can take that trip. Maybe I can get down there, shake your hand and look at that Dodge.

[Eric_Hysteric]

Thanks for the manual information and your posts!

"Dexron III fluid is the minimum one should use. For smoother shifting and less wear in winter, use Chrysler ATF+3 or ATF+4 (there are numerous “universal” fluids, and one which conforms to Dexron III and/or ATF+3/+4 should work). "
Source: Allpar

@j-d
yes, it's the 2nd dana axle i use full syntetic 75w140 fluid, because it has very good lubricating properties and the highest heat reserves.
You are in Germany now?

[StingrayL82]

StingrayL82 wrote:

Leeann wrote:

Eric Hysteric wrote:
Changed transmission fluid (6 quarts Mopar ATF+4)

The 727 does NOT take ATF+4. It takes Dexron. ATF+4 is for '90s and newer Chrysler transmissions with overdrive, which the 727 definitely is not.

The information in our service manuals is outdated, Leeann.

The guy who rebuilt my 727 only does Mopar automatics and is a drag racer. He and I discussed DexMerc vs Ford Type F vs ATF+4 as nauseam...his recommendations were that DexMerc (what replaced Dexron II, III & IV) is what you want, if you’re going the non-synthetic route.

If you want synthetic, ATF+4 is the best and works well in the 727...it’s what I bought. It does not destabilize like Dino oil under heat.

Ford Type F is what drag racers use, due to the lack of friction modifiers, so the trans grabs every gear hard, but it builds up heat quickly and isn’t good for road use.

He said absolutely stay away from Dexron VI, because the engineers developed it for the new transmissions, but it sucks and is causing major problems for all the transmissions...rubber seals swelling and blowing out.

[StingrayL82]

Leeann wrote:

Eric Hysteric wrote:
Changed transmission fluid (6 quarts Mopar ATF+4)

The 727 does NOT take ATF+4. It takes Dexron. ATF+4 is for '90s and newer Chrysler transmissions with overdrive, which the 727 definitely is not.

The information in our service manuals is outdated, Leeann.

The guy who rebuilt my 727 only does Mopar automatics and is a drag racer. He and I discussed DexMerc vs Ford Type F vs ATF+4 as nauseam...his recommendations were that DexMerc (what replaced Dexron II, III & IV) is what you want, if you’re going the non-synthetic route.

If you want synthetic, ATF+4 is the best and works well in the 727...it’s what I bought.

Ford Type F is what drag racers use, due to the lack of friction modifiers, so the trans grabs every gear hard, but it builds up heat quickly and isn’t good for road use.

He said absolutely stay away from Dexron VI, because the engineers developed it for the new transmissions, but it sucks and is causing major problems for all the transmissions...rubber seals swelling and blowing out.