Leveling a Class C?

[coolmom42]

If the rear of a Class C needs to be raised to level up when parked, is it necessary to raise all the wheels? Or is it adequate to get 1 tire on each side to the right level?

So far all my sites have been very close to level, but that won't last, for sure.

[pnichols]

coolmom42 wrote:

Gjac wrote:
After reading these 3 pages of posts and the 4 pages that Phil posted from IRV2 I guess the real question is when you consider the weight and space these leveling blocks take up in a small Class C, and having to get on your hands and knees to use the blocks would it be better when buying a newer C to buy one with automatic levelers especially for older folks?

You don't have to get on your hands and knees to use any of these varieties. (Believe me, I have 2 knee replacements and kneeling on them is very uncomfortable.) You can just slide them in from the side.

That's how I place and remove my step blocks. The toughest ones to physically line up correctly are the two inside ones on the rear dual tire sets.

The toughest leveling situation is when different step levels are required between tires at the four vehicle corners - when you of course have to drive forward or backward onto all of them simultaneously and stop just right while looking at the dual bubble sets mounted North-South and East-West in the cab. It took me many camping trips to get proficient at manipulating the three dimensional geometric relationships of this ... but don't despair, one can eventually get pretty fast and good at it!

[coolmom42]

Gjac wrote:
After reading these 3 pages of posts and the 4 pages that Phil posted from IRV2 I guess the real question is when you consider the weight and space these leveling blocks take up in a small Class C, and having to get on your hands and knees to use the blocks would it be better when buying a newer C to buy one with automatic levelers especially for older folks?

You don't have to get on your hands and knees to use any of these varieties. (Believe me, I have 2 knee replacements and kneeling on them is very uncomfortable.) You can just slide them in from the side.

[coolmom42]

IAMICHABOD wrote:
I have been using the Tri Levelers for more than 10 years and found that the steps are sufficient to sit level and stable on.

As noted when on the leveler just putting the RV in park and setting the parking brake at the same time will keep it from moving,in all these years I have never had a problem with any movement.

I had a set of wood ones I made up for my previous RV, as pictured above,I found that they were VERY heavy about 24 Lbs each, and hard to stow taking up way to much room.That is why I went the way I did with the Tri Levelers,light weight,easy to stow and I have yet to find a spot that needed any thing larger.

That's good to know.

[pnichols]

bobndot wrote:
If you install a set of bubble levels that you see from the drivers seat, like I did or Dusty did, there will little need to level other than move the rv into a suitable position. If you use decent private CG's many will already be level. I seldom use my hydraulic levelers and would not spend $5k for the option.

If you do use wood blocks or plastic blocks, use your awning strap rod to push them in place and attach a rope to them to remove them. Limited bending down.

Using the awning strap rod is a great idea! I'll have to try this, along with the extra thick kneeling pad I use.

[Gjac]

bobndot wrote:
If you install a set of bubble levels that you see from the drivers seat, like I did or Dusty did, there will little need to level other than move the rv into a suitable position. If you use decent private CG's many will already be level. I seldom use my hydraulic levelers and would not spend $5k for the option.

If you do use wood blocks or plastic blocks, use your awning strap rod to push them in place and attach a rope to them to remove them. Limited bending down.

I have a bubble system on my Class A now and it does help get close but I usually have to put the jacks down. I never go to private CG's mostly NFS or SP's which are usually not very level. Has anyone used air bags to level or say help level using minimal blocks?

[bobndot]

If you install a set of bubble levels that you see from the drivers seat, like I did or Dusty did, there will little need to level other than move the rv into a suitable position. If you use decent private CG's many will already be level. I seldom use my hydraulic levelers and would not spend $5k for the option.

If you do use wood blocks or plastic blocks, use your awning strap rod to push them in place and attach a rope to them to remove them. Limited bending down.

[Gjac]

After reading these 3 pages of posts and the 4 pages that Phil posted from IRV2 I guess the real question is when you consider the weight and space these leveling blocks take up in a small Class C, and having to get on your hands and knees to use the blocks would it be better when buying a newer C to buy one with automatic levelers especially for older folks?

[bobndot]

https://www.rvtravel.com/ok-support-just-one-dual-tire-leveling-block/

[ron_dittmer]

Hi coolmom42,

Every once in a while, your original question is asked.....Can you drive your rear tires on one ramp, such that one of the two tires is suspended in the air?

We have a smaller class-C motor home. You can see it by CLICKING HERE. The weight on our rear tires is not as much as with bigger and longer rigs. I am comfortable using one ramp per rear corner, suspending the inside rear tire in the air. My decision was based in-part on a phone call I made to the Michelin tire company.

At home we have rain gutters instead of curbs. My question was, "Is it okay to park so the outer tire is suspended over the rain gutter to avoid the rig parked out into the road? He said it was fine. I then asked about driving the rig on ramps. He said to use two ramps. Then I asked him what is the difference between my first question and second question. He admitted there is no difference, but that is what they are required to tell their customers.

I use Lynx levelers. They resemble Lego blocks as shown below. Each block is one inch tall. They offer blocks, flat top caps, and wheel chocks. When used in combination, it becomes a fairly decent ramp. They store in nice compact zippered bags and are very light weight.

I searched the web and found this picture of all 3 different Lynx components in use at the same time, but only one block high. You can stack this higher and higher. The official limit is 5 blocks, 5" high plus the top cap.


There are other products that accomplish the same thing. By chance I went with the Lynx product line. I am not saying it's the only good choice.

[pnichols]

ybconway wrote:
A couple of comments since I went through this. You can level on one tire but you put a lot of weight on the block. If you are on softer ground or sand the block can get pushed into the ground. The stepped blocks were all sold out up here so I bought a set of Rhino Ramps that were rated for 12,000 LBs. BIg mistake. They probably be alright on concrete but on soft ground they buckled and collapsed. I made some hardwood ramps from 4x6 which work well and at the end of the season I was able to find the proper stepped blocks but make sure that I have one under each tire. I've picked up some 1/2" aluminum plate that I'm going to cut into panels to put under the ramps. They may be a bit slippery so I'll try contact gluing some old inner tube to them.

"You can level on one tire but you put a lot of weight on the block."

Are you talking about having to raise up the duals in the rear (of a Class C)?

IMHO, both tires of a dual set should always be raised, for a couple of reasons.

[ybconway]

A couple of comments since I went through this. You can level on one tire but you put a lot of weight on the block. If you are on softer ground or sand the block can get pushed into the ground. The stepped blocks were all sold out up here so I bought a set of Rhino Ramps that were rated for 12,000 LBs. BIg mistake. They probably be alright on concrete but on soft ground they buckled and collapsed. I made some hardwood ramps from 4x6 which work well and at the end of the season I was able to find the proper stepped blocks but make sure that I have one under each tire. I've picked up some 1/2" aluminum plate that I'm going to cut into panels to put under the ramps. They may be a bit slippery so I'll try contact gluing some old inner tube to them.

[pnichols]

I originally tried the plastic/composite step levelers, but found that they eventually cracked and begun to shatter when used on rocky and pebbled surfaces such as we often encountered in rough campsites.

I found that the heavy duty homemade wooden plank ones were more durable for longterm use in the largest variety of camping situations.

[IAMICHABOD]

I have been using the Tri Levelers for more than 10 years and found that the steps are sufficient to sit level and stable on.

As noted when on the leveler just putting the RV in park and setting the parking brake at the same time will keep it from moving,in all these years I have never had a problem with any movement.

I had a set of wood ones I made up for my previous RV, as pictured above,I found that they were VERY heavy about 24 Lbs each, and hard to stow taking up way to much room.That is why I went the way I did with the Tri Levelers,light weight,easy to stow and I have yet to find a spot that needed any thing larger.

[pnichols]

coolmom42 wrote:
Thanks for all the input, everyone.

I've been looking at some of the "step" type blocks referenced above, for instance, the Tri-levelers. It looks to me like none of the individual steps are big enough, front to back, for a tire to sit level on it, and a tire is always going to be bridging 2 different levels. Obviously this works, since people use them, but to me it's not clear that it's stable. It's also not clear how the wheels can be chocked with this setup.

So if all the rear tires are up on the leveler, where and how do you chock the wheels?

Sorry, I haven't been able to post pictures yet. However mine look a lot like these:
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f87/made-me-some-leveling-blocks-today-513069.html

Once parked on any particular step of these type step blocks, your park gear and/or parking brake will keep it on that step.

[coolmom42]

Thanks for all the input, everyone.

I've been looking at some of the "step" type blocks referenced above, for instance, the Tri-levelers. It looks to me like none of the individual steps are big enough, front to back, for a tire to sit level on it, and a tire is always going to be bridging 2 different levels. Obviously this works, since people use them, but to me it's not clear that it's stable. It's also not clear how the wheels can be chocked with this setup.

So if all the rear tires are up on the leveler, where and how do you chock the wheels?