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RV sitting for two to three weeks in 10 degree weather

Cmccain13
Explorer
Explorer
Our family is going to be in the mountains in NM for a month or so, but not staying in the RV and will be staying in my in-laws house for tow to three weeks. possibly four. So do I still need to winterize? I can make sure its all emptied and drained. The issue is I'm from central Texas and it rarely ever freezes here, so I am very worried about cold weather and the effect it will have on our RV. I would hate for the first stop on our 2 year journey to be a disaster. Thanks for the help and if there is more info that you need let me know.
30 REPLIES 30

Monaramblee
Explorer
Explorer
Good point...if you use the pink stuff you xant go wrong and if you use the air method it can be 100 percent effective but it can go wrong
2008 Holiday rambler Vacationer XL
340 HP Cummins

PatJ
Explorer II
Explorer II
DrewE wrote:
I respectfully disagree about blowing out the lines being insufficient for 10 degree weather; if done properly, it's every bit as safe as pumping antifreeze, as air doesn't freeze and expand.


My neighbor, who has lived across the street from me for many years, and whose RV has experienced the exact same conditions as my RV for many years, would agree with Drew 100%. My neighbors success with blowing out is 100%. His toy hauler is much larger, "fancier," and more complex than my class C, and he has more plumbing fixtures. And we get very cold here, -20f nights with 0f days is not unheard of.

But my neighbor still buys two gallons of pink antifreeze to pour in all his traps. I winterize my entire rig with the same amount, so zero additional cost for me to be 100% certain. Two gallons of the pink and after pumping through the system, it flows in to the traps to protect them as well.

It is all personal preference. But if you flow pink through everything you can't go wrong IMO.
Patrick

garyhaupt
Explorer
Explorer
So many people fear the word..'winterize'. It is not a big deal And even if lines are blown, ant-freeze is cheap.

There are things to know...where drains are for your tanks, and lines and where to isolate your hot water tank. You really don't want to guess..the damage could be costly. Once you have been shown...the actual doing of it is quick.

Don't forget to pull the anode rod out of the hot water tank. That tank will split wide open.

Go find a buddy that can show you how/where to find all the drains and so on...and where to put in the anti-freeze. Or take it to an RV shop..but insist that they show you, so you know for next time.

Where you are parking it? Is there a power source? Run in a ceramic heater...open all the doors and cupboards and let the heater just run. You still need to winterize it...what if powers goes off...but it will thank you for the love.


Gary Haupt
I have a Blog..about stuff, some of which is RV'ing.

http://mrgwh.blogspot.ca/

ybconway
Explorer
Explorer
I did ours for the first time this year. Probably way over done but once you find all the cubies where the valves are it shouldn't be a problem. My unit has a extra pick up tube to the pump that you stick in the antifreeze jug and pump it around to all the fixtures. The worst was trying to find the drain for the fresh water. Was ready to take a jig saw to the bed frame.

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
DrewE wrote:
PatJ wrote:
I agree with those that say do a full winterize with pink antifreeze through each fixture, hot and cold and in the traps. "Blowing Out" has its place, I do it after each spring trip for those nights where the temps dip down to ~30f overnight low (and maybe 55 daytime.) You are talking about 10f and I assume possibly not warming above freezing during the day. Unless you are planning to leave the heat on, blowing out alone won't help you, you need a full winterize with the pink stuff in my opinion.


I respectfully disagree about blowing out the lines being insufficient for 10 degree weather; if done properly, it's every bit as safe as pumping antifreeze, as air doesn't freeze and expand. If your blowing out is okay for 30 degree lows but not for 10 degree lows, it stands to reason that the blowing out of the lines was not necessary for the brief nighttime dips below freezing at 30 degrees as the water in the pipes isn't losing enough heat to freeze during the few hours of cold.

I've gone through several Vermont winters, which usually have a number of below zero days, and have always blown out the pipes and used antifreeze only in the traps. I've had zero problems with the plumbing--no leaks, no breaks.


^What he said. Adding AF to the water lines is just more id10t proof.
But hey, the OP hasn't been back, sooo.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

whemme
Explorer
Explorer
As an owner of a motorhome you should know how to winterize it properly. Just use your ownerโ€™s manual and use common sense. If you are asking if you need to fill the 3 tanks with pink RV antifreeze you are not using common sense. If you donโ€™t know how to winterize, please take your unit to an RV dealer and have them show you how to do it. Then the next important thing is make sure they show how to un-winterize it next spring.

I had a friend that had a RV dealer winterize his motorhome and did not watch the procedure used. In the spring not knowing how to un-winterize it, he just started by filling his fresh water tank. He ended up flooding the whole interior with water.
2002 Born Free 26' RSB Motorcoach
2005 Chevrolet Malibu LS Toad

hoosiermark
Explorer
Explorer
You might want to consider your alternatives to this. Find a climate controlled storage for a month, leave the RV in warmer place and rent a van or car for the time needed, as mentioned travel by car and then go back and get it. All kinds of options if you check into things. Since you will not be using it during the time period you have options other then winterizing it. But unless you plan to always be in warm weather, it might be good to get some heating pads and things to make it a four season unit in the long run.

DrewE
Explorer
Explorer
PatJ wrote:
I agree with those that say do a full winterize with pink antifreeze through each fixture, hot and cold and in the traps. "Blowing Out" has its place, I do it after each spring trip for those nights where the temps dip down to ~30f overnight low (and maybe 55 daytime.) You are talking about 10f and I assume possibly not warming above freezing during the day. Unless you are planning to leave the heat on, blowing out alone won't help you, you need a full winterize with the pink stuff in my opinion.


I respectfully disagree about blowing out the lines being insufficient for 10 degree weather; if done properly, it's every bit as safe as pumping antifreeze, as air doesn't freeze and expand. If your blowing out is okay for 30 degree lows but not for 10 degree lows, it stands to reason that the blowing out of the lines was not necessary for the brief nighttime dips below freezing at 30 degrees as the water in the pipes isn't losing enough heat to freeze during the few hours of cold.

I've gone through several Vermont winters, which usually have a number of below zero days, and have always blown out the pipes and used antifreeze only in the traps. I've had zero problems with the plumbing--no leaks, no breaks.

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
For 10 f, full winterizing is a must do.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

PatJ
Explorer II
Explorer II
I agree with those that say do a full winterize with pink antifreeze through each fixture, hot and cold and in the traps. "Blowing Out" has its place, I do it after each spring trip for those nights where the temps dip down to ~30f overnight low (and maybe 55 daytime.) You are talking about 10f and I assume possibly not warming above freezing during the day. Unless you are planning to leave the heat on, blowing out alone won't help you, you need a full winterize with the pink stuff in my opinion.

You shouldn't need to pour it in the fresh tank if you have a place to hook up to winterize. Make sure to bypass your water heater. I can do my whole rig with 2 gallons. Don't forget the outside shower and low point drains.
Patrick

coolmom42
Explorer
Explorer
You need to completely winterize, and remove all food and toiletries that can freeze.

This is a good checklist for winterizing. Except turn off the water heater FIRST.
Single empty-nester in Middle TN, sometimes with a friend or grandchild on board

Charles2222
Explorer
Explorer
Me thinks it would be better to just drive your car up there for four weeks and go back home and get the RV,then head out on your trip

wolfe10
Explorer
Explorer
As others have explained, doesn't matter if you have a hard freeze for one over-night or 50, if you don't winterize, things will CRACK! PERIOD!
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38'FDDS
Ex: 1997 Safari 35'
Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240

Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/

Monaramblee
Explorer
Explorer
Either completely winterize it or do nothing. Simply draining the low drain points gives you zero protection. If using air you need to blow every drop of water out. I would use antifreeze to be safe.
2008 Holiday rambler Vacationer XL
340 HP Cummins