Hitch Advice

[Mikesr]

Recently took delivery on a Keystone Outback 325BH with a dry weight of 8400# and a hitch weight of 950# and is 37 feet long per manufacturer specs. TV is a 2005 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD 6.0 gas extended cab and 6.5 bed 4x4 with a 10.5 K tow rating.
Previously towed with an Equalizer hitch that had a 10 K Rating and 1000 lb bars. That TT was 7 K
With the purchase of the new TT we updated to a Blue Ox Sway Pro with 1500 Lb bars as per Dealer and Blue Ox recommendations. As mentioned in a previous post by me the TV had a light front end and some loss of steering above 55 MPH. Was advised to go up another link (to 10 links showing) on the Blue Ox, which is not possible. In order to get it to 9 links the back of the truck is EXTREMELY high and shows separation of the leaf springs just to hook and unhook the tension bars which are loaded with so much tension I feel unsafe trying to remove them.
Yesterday I spend ALL day with the dealer and they made a couple adjustments to the ball height of the Blue Ox and corrected some of the steering issues (not all) but this heavy load on the bars is still there and I feel unsafe to hitch and unhitch. I also placed 2 calls to Blue Ox to double check what the dealer was doing and they agreed and assured me the hitch was correct for the TT and TV at the specs given.
At the end of the day I came home with no camper. Frustrated and worried about my safety. The service manager was very helpful but my piece of mind was not satisfied.
He has now offered an even trade for installation of another WDH of my choice.
That's why I'm back here for advice.
The dealer stocks Reese Stait Line Dual Cam and Blue Ox.
He can order anything I want.
After looking over the Strait Line I'm leaning that way now. The bars look longer then Blue Ox and it looks much more adjustable (though not as simple as the Blue Ox)
As mentioned I liked the Equalizer I had but now need a12K with the 1200 # bars.
I know this is a long post but I trust you guys for some sound and safe advice.
Could my TV be undersized for this TT ? It tows it with no problems even on grades. Braking is great with my P3 controller. It's down to the weight distribution setup that will work for me.
I do understand I'm at the near the max of the truck but there is some margin. Could the overal age of the truck be a factor? Suspension is stock and original.
Thanks in advance for reading this and I welcome any and all advice.

[Papa_Fuzzy_Bear]

Papa Fuzzy Bear wrote:
Thank you gentlemen. I will take care of this as soon as I get home from work.

Sorry, I did not write sooner. I wanted to thank you so very much for all your advice. Oh, Man what a difference. No squeal, and trailer seemed to ride better.

Happy trails all.

[gmw_photos]

Interesting thread. I'm glad to hear the OP got his particular situation remedied to his satisfaction.

To others who may be new to this, I would make a couple of suggestions.

First, trying to set up a WD hitch without using a scale ( CAT scale is easiest, IMO ) is a guessing game.

Second, when unlatching my BlueOx, if I am too lazy to jack it up high enough, then yes it will release and rotate suddenly. I use a regular old craftsman 1/2" ratchet, with a 1 inch socket. Using a ratchet, when it does release, and suddenly rotate, it is rotating in the direction of the ratchet free wheeling. That makes it impossible to hurt you.

[Papa_Fuzzy_Bear]

Thank you gentlemen. I will take care of this as soon as I get home from work.

[downtheroad]

Yes, lube the bar ends that go into the hitch head... also lube the hitch ball itself.
I use this stuff...

[Hannibal]

I use a drop of Mobil-1 5w-30 on those similar spots on my Reese HP pivot points and chains. Much like the rik rak of a chain swing we sit on, the chains will make some loud pops and rik raks in slow motion. One drop on the first link of chain at both ends will quiet it down. They speak up pretty loudly when dry.

[Papa_Fuzzy_Bear]

Could someone help me. New TT hauler using Load Distribution hitch. We are about to take a little longer drive on our third camp out (over 2 hours) last night taking it to the house from storage I noticed hard popping and squealing when I turned. I had my DW loosen the anti sway bar but that was not it. I have a system like this but it does not have a grease port. Do you recommend putting grease in these locations as well as the ball?



Thank you all in advance for your assistance,
Robert

[73guna]

Yes I use a breaker bar, helped some, but still dangerous.
Just my opinion, but I would avoid using the Blue Ox with heavy tongue weights.
I may go back to Equalizer or look into Reese.

Thanks...

[Mikesr]

73guna wrote:
I feel your pain when hooking and unhooking with the blue ox.
Mine is down right dangerous sometimes. Ive been smacked quite a few times when releasing the bars.
There have beeen times when the rear tires are nearly off the ground and my tongue jack is only rated at #3500.
This may just be an issue with heavier trailers and blue ox.
It tows great, but Im nervous every hook/unhook.
Poor design in my opinion.

Thank you for your input. I feel less like a dummy now. 20 years plus of towing and 3 different types WDH and this Blue Ox was the worst design I ever saw. Yes it's simple and from what I see cheaper. But just like hand grenades and parachutes you don't want to go with low bid.
Highly recommend you try the Reese Stait Line Dual Cam. Night and day difference
Thanks again

[Mikesr]

I'm in agreement that the hitch is good and needs LOTS of tension on those bars to achieve optimal performance and weight distribution, but the manufacturer needs to step up and make this safer. I read in another post about the recommendations of a 24 inch cheater bar and how it works. In using the provided Blue Ox wrench first time getting the tension OFF the one side the wrench flew with such force it wedged into the propane cover WITH MY HAND ON IT, fortunately I had mechanic gloves on and just the tip of the glove was caught and I could pull my hand out of the glove. Scary stuff. I can not see where there is room in the rotation of that coupler nut to fully move a 24 inch bar without it wedging into either the propane tank, trailer body or the ground.
After examining the way the provided wrench fits over the nut it's very sloppy and loose.
I'm no dummy but it was confusing as to which way to turn the frame coupler nut to relive the tension, they don't even put a directional arrow saying TIGHT or LOOSE.
Told my dealer I felt unsafe hooking up and unhitching the Blue Ox and it really did not achieve the weight distribution I needed to tow safely.
Thanks again for all the input. I'm sure for some the Blue Ox works great, just not for me.

downtheroad wrote:
Been following this thread....
I really like our BlueOx. Had an Equal-i-zer and Reece Dual Cam on previous trailers....all were good, but the SwayPro is my top choice so far.

Yes, the hitch is designed to work best when the bars are loaded with a lot of spring pressure.

I agree with others, the supplied wrench is worthless. I use a ratcheting breaker bar from Harbor Freight. Makes loading the bars much easier and much safter.

[downtheroad]

Been following this thread....
I really like our BlueOx. Had an Equal-i-zer and Reece Dual Cam on previous trailers....all were good, but the SwayPro is my top choice so far.

Yes, the hitch is designed to work best when the bars are loaded with a lot of spring pressure.

I agree with others, the supplied wrench is worthless. I use a ratcheting breaker bar from Harbor Freight. Makes loading the bars much easier and much safter.

[camperforlife]

73guna wrote:
I feel your pain when hooking and unhooking with the blue ox.
Mine is down right dangerous sometimes. Ive been smacked quite a few times when releasing the bars.
There have beeen times when the rear tires are nearly off the ground and my tongue jack is only rated at #3500.
This may just be an issue with heavier trailers and blue ox.
It tows great, but Im nervous every hook/unhook.
Poor design in my opinion.

Are you still using the factory wrench? If you are throw it away before you get hurt and buy a 24" breaker bar. They called me this spring and quizzed me about what I did and didn't like about the hitch. I chewed their ear quite a while over the supplied wrench.

[73guna]

I feel your pain when hooking and unhooking with the blue ox.
Mine is down right dangerous sometimes. Ive been smacked quite a few times when releasing the bars.
There have beeen times when the rear tires are nearly off the ground and my tongue jack is only rated at #3500.
This may just be an issue with heavier trailers and blue ox.
It tows great, but Im nervous every hook/unhook.
Poor design in my opinion.

[peirek]

samsontdog wrote:
The 4 point Equalizer is the best hitch that I have ever used even better than the Hensley that I have sitting in my garage.

Contact Hensley if you are looking to reduce the clutter in your garage and put a few bucks in your pocket. They are always looking for used ones to rebuild.

[ktmrfs]

BarneyS wrote:
For lubing the Reese Dual Cam, you only want to use a bit of Vasoline on the cams. That makes it silent on heavy hitch weight rigs.

As far as the chains go, all they do is hold up up the cam arms a they do not move at all so no need to lube there. The chains move some on the regular Reese hitch but not on the Dual Cam.

The rest of the hitch DOES need lubrication however. You should put oil or a bit of grease on the trunnion ends where they insert into the hitch head. If using a round bar hitch the ends of the bars where they insert should be heavily greased. Also the ball should have a coating of grease on it. You can download the instructions for the Strait-line hitch here.
Barney

Great advice as always Barney.


I'll add one more point when using a Dual Cam setup

Label the bars drivers and passenger or left and right. Why, well each bar is close but not identical and you want them to fit exactly the same each time on the cam. and they will also wear in consistently that way.