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How much electiticy costs to run small RV heaters?

gettinmykxs
Explorer
Explorer
I have 3 small RV space heaters I bought from Camping World, designed for RV's. How much electric do these things actually run? I live on private property because I have had screwed luck finding a RV park here in Central CA as they are all full. So the guy I am renting too, is now complaining about the usage of electric. Mind you I sit in the dark most nights, without TV on, no lights, because he is throwing a fit over the electrical bill. Really? The guy owns his own home, it was built in 1964, has 3 refrig's
running, lights, an old out dated washer and dryer, does not have 220.....So my question is a small tiny space heater that I got from Camping world for less then 25. bucks a piece is running to much electric? When I was in a RV park my electric bill never went over 30 bucks a month, whats your take on this?
Susan, 04 Salem 37 ft'
pulled by a 08 Chevy 1 ton p/u
32 REPLIES 32

ol__yeller
Explorer II
Explorer II
Susan, just a slight correction to your terminology, your Landlord is providing 120V (Volts) not 120A (Amps). Most likely the connection via a power extension cord is 15A or maybe 30A.
I am NOT a mechanic although I do play one in my garage!

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi

1000 watts =3412 btu's.

About the smallest rv furnace is 20000 btu's

If you plan on running heaters it behooves you to replace the outlets in the RV.

tatest wrote:
Depends on the rate per KWH and how many heaters you need to run. For most RVs, 2-3 1500 watt heaters are close to the output their LPG furnace; larger RVs it can be several more.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

tatest
Explorer II
Explorer II
Depends on the rate per KWH and how many heaters you need to run. For most RVs, 2-3 1500 watt heaters are close to the output their LPG furnace; larger RVs it can be several more.

I'm in a place where electrity comes from coal-fired thermal plants and the coal has to come from West Virginia or Wyoming. We are sitting on top of oil wells that produce gas liquids, so burning LPG is usually cheaper, if electricity is billed on usage rather than "free" which means you've paid for it whether you use it or not.

Resultsfor you will depend on relative costs for energy where ever you are.
Tom Test
Itasca Spirit 29B

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
bob_nestor wrote:
Seems the OP is asking for information to counter her landlord's assertion that she's using an excess amount of electricity. The only way she can win that argument is to prove to him that his assertion is wrong and that can only be done by unplugging entirely. The risk though is that it could also prove her landlord to be correct, after all, in his mind an increase of $1/mo in his bill could be deemed "excessive". Arguing with him using facts and figures unrelated to what he's seeing, or thinks he's seeing in his bills will probably just end up angering him, as will trying to point out that he's not spreading his costs fairly with his other borders. It's his property, his bills and his feeling about where the costs should be spread that really matters.

Not trying to be mean, but the emotional arguments about being disabled, not being able to find someplace else to park the RV, trying to reduce usage by not using lights or TV, not being able to heat with propane because of a broken furnace, etc are really of no concern to the landlord and not his problem. His problem is he thinks he's seeing higher electrical bills because of the OPs use of electricity in her RV. That problem needs to be solved, not countered with argument.

So unless the OP has a legally binding contract, I believe there are three possible solutions: 1) reduce and/or eliminate her use of electricity for heating to a level acceptable to her landlord, 2) move, or 3) negotiate a new deal with the landlord.


I have to agree, the emotional arguements aren't going to help your case with the landlord. More likely, it will give him reason to "encourage" you to leave and not to rent to people in a difficult situation in the future. In the end, he is operating a buisness. If it's not profitable enough for him (and he gets to decide what is enough), he will raise prices or end the buisness.

Even if you have a legally binding contract, as stated before, you might win the battle but lose the war. Sure for the next 6 months, the landlord is trapped but once the lease is up, the rates could double or tripple in an effort to encourage you to leave.

If you are plugged into a standard 15amp household outlet, go get yourself a killowatt meter (about $20) at most home repair stores. Talk to your landlord first and then plug that into the outlet and your extension cord into the killowatt. It has a setting that will measure the total KW-H that you consume.

If you really are using minimal power, it will show up and should calm your landlord down...of course, if he's right, you will have proved it to him.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi Susan,

Consider getting an electric heating pad. They draw a scant 50 watts. I use one in my bed before I crawl in and then put it down by my feet for the night.

I do hope you find a great place to go, and that your medical issues will be dealt with quickly.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

gettinmykxs
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks Steve. I worry about the buddy heaters as you have to attach them to a small propane tank. The fear of it leaking would be a disaster in itself. I figured out with all the posts here, if I were to run my small RV heaters around the clock it would add up to over 200.00 bucks a month. I have one on right now just to warm up the coach before bed. After that it is turned off for the night. I put my short haired dogs fleece jacket on her, my two shelties are fine. Long hair. Good ideas about the bubble wrap which I will get tomorrow. I spoke today with the landlords Uncle whom he said his nephew was getting a good deal on my end. He said his house is the same size as the guy I am renting from is running a tier 4 for a month and his electric bill is over 300.00 per month. No discount what so ever. This landlord is about to get a taste of how good he had it when the electric bill is put back into his name. There are alot of code enforcement violations alone with this guys electric system that the city here would fine him to the end of the earth and back. He was just telling me 3 days ago what a good tenant i am, then comes back with this..I will find another place to go, whether a RV park in S. CA or N. Ca. I am only here due to medical issues. Otherwise I would have been long gone after the summer here. Thanks for your reply and all the others. Blessings to all our RV'ers..
Susan
04 Salem
37'ft
Pulled with a 08 Chevy 1 ton

SteveAE
Explorer
Explorer
Susan,

To answer your question, yes there are a number of portable propane heaters commonly used by RV'ers.
- The Buddy heaters are probably the most common and least expensive, but......you really need to be careful with them. They are not only physically hot, but they also generate combustion by-products. So I would not recommend leaving one on when you are asleep (some folks do though). And, unless you connect them to your propane tanks (hose and connectors available for some models, but expensive), using the little 1 lb bottles that they are mainly designed for will quickly add up.
- The next up in cost and popularity is probably the Olympian Wave series. These heaters don't run as hot (they are radiant so they warm objects in the room rather than the air) so IMO are safer from a fire standpoint. However, they are not quick to warm up a room either, so you will probably have it on for longer periods of time. I also feel that they are safer (than the Buddy heaters) to use in an enclosed space like a RV ... though there are folks here who would disagree with this. Since they need a source of propane, there will be some installation required (pretty minimal though if you just run a LP hose out a window to an extra tank),
Note that both of these heater require a cracked open window and an open ceiling vent to be "safe".
- There are other, more permanent type heaters, that don't need open windows and vents, but it doesn't sound like this is what you are looking for.

As for a place to live:
- You might check with some of the farm and ranch suppliers as there may be ranches and vineyards in the region that would want someone living on the property as a caretaker.
- You mentioned Bakersfield so it doesn't sound like you are too tied down. If this is the case, maybe you would be better off heading further south where it is warmer and you can camp for free on public lands (desert in SE California and SW Arizona)? Yes, there is public lands in SLO county, but you will still be dealing with the cooler weather. Places such as Quartzsite or the Slabs might be possibilities for you to consider (you may still want/need a propane heater though). And there are plenty of folks here can better advise you on these (and other similar) locations down there. Then, in the spring, just pull up stakes and move back up north. Maybe even find a campground (not RV park) that needs a host where you can work for your space.

Whatever you choose to do, I believe that you already know what you should do about your current living situation.

Again, good luck.

2gypsies1
Explorer
Explorer
If you plan to spend a lot of time there a catalytic propane heater is very economical and gives a constant warmth. We used one for 16 years of full-timing rather than our RV furnace or portable electric heaters.
Full-Timed for 16 Years
.... Back in S&B Again
Traveled 8 yr in a 40' 2004 Newmar Dutch Star Motorhome
& 8 yr in a 33' Travel Supreme 5th Wheel

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi MNG,

That's an interesting figure.

How many "extra" rv's? How many months is winter?

MNGeeks61 wrote:
We had multiple people stay even though it was off-season and that year the campground's electric bill was about 15,000 higher for the winter season.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Using an unvented combustion heater provides the human body with lots of chemical by products. Carbon Monoxide is not the only "nasty". I won't use one. My daughter is a CO survivor.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

MNGeeks61
Explorer
Explorer
I can tell you exactly how much it cost a campground - had several folks who were in a similar situation...several lot owners moved in to the campground trying to save money. Our campground is not year round, there's no water off-season, but the electricity is on, and since it's a HOA, access to owner's lots is open.

We had multiple people stay even though it was off-season and that year the campground's electric bill was about 15,000 higher for the winter season.

To give you an idea of how much the campground normally pays for electric - in a good year it's about $300,000. One month during a hot July we had to spend $35,000. I believe the kwh cost is about 12 cents.

There are over 800 lots in this campground.

bob_nestor
Explorer III
Explorer III
Seems the OP is asking for information to counter her landlord's assertion that she's using an excess amount of electricity. The only way she can win that argument is to prove to him that his assertion is wrong and that can only be done by unplugging entirely. The risk though is that it could also prove her landlord to be correct, after all, in his mind an increase of $1/mo in his bill could be deemed "excessive". Arguing with him using facts and figures unrelated to what he's seeing, or thinks he's seeing in his bills will probably just end up angering him, as will trying to point out that he's not spreading his costs fairly with his other borders. It's his property, his bills and his feeling about where the costs should be spread that really matters.

Not trying to be mean, but the emotional arguments about being disabled, not being able to find someplace else to park the RV, trying to reduce usage by not using lights or TV, not being able to heat with propane because of a broken furnace, etc are really of no concern to the landlord and not his problem. His problem is he thinks he's seeing higher electrical bills because of the OPs use of electricity in her RV. That problem needs to be solved, not countered with argument.

So unless the OP has a legally binding contract, I believe there are three possible solutions: 1) reduce and/or eliminate her use of electricity for heating to a level acceptable to her landlord, 2) move, or 3) negotiate a new deal with the landlord.

Roy_Lynne
Explorer
Explorer
We have a Little Buddy also and I would highly recommend it and the purchase of a feather bed or blanket. The feather blanket will keep you toasty while you sleep and the Buddy will quickly heat up your place in the morning. Also, get some bubble wrap for your windows, just a spray of water will keep it stuck to the windows. Then go find some rugs, you can often find them at the second hand store or on sale, and cover every inch of your floors. The vents can also be stuffed with pillows or towels. The more insulation you have the less the heat will escape

MNGeeks61
Explorer
Explorer
Since you can't fix/won't fix the propane furnace, what about a Mr. Buddy propane heater hooked up to a 20 lb tank or something along those lines?

It's California, I'm not sure what seems "cold" to you. Three space heaters seems like a waste of electricity. I can't imagine it's too efficient.

Also, did you sign a contract or anything?