ProPride and lifted 3500

[ApexAZ]

Hi all,

We just applied for financing on a 2021 Fuel F-287.

Assuming the loan gets approved, we should be picking the unit up on the 18th. I have a 2020 Denali 3500 SRW that I put a 4" suspension lift and larger 35" tires on, which put us just a wee bit too high to fit a 5th wheel, so we opted for a bumper pull.

A couple questions I have are:

My truck is rated at 20k conventional hitch weight with 2k tongue weight, and a CGVW of 29700. The trailer has a GVWR of 12,800 and I'm guessing the truck probably weighs in around 8500 curb weight (I plan to try and weigh it soon if I can find a place), which will put me at around 22.5k max combined weight when factoring in passengers and added cargo. Obviously the lift and bigger tires reduce capacity, but does anyone know just how much? I'll still be about 7k under the stock CGVW and conventional hitch figure.

Does anyone have a similar truck who have upgraded their brakes? Is this an option to improve stopping power?

I'm looking at the ProPride 3P hitch. Trailer sway makes me nervous and the lift compounds that. I'm hoping this will make towing safer. Anyone have experience with these and are they worth the $? If they work as advertised, it seems like money well spent for added safety. Any cons? It seems to add a few feet to overall length. Should I assume I'll need some air bags too?

I have seen several comments on various forums that people replace the stock hitch receiver with a class 5. In looking at some of those, the ratings are all very similar to that 2k/20k capacity, so I'm wondering if that's something I should worry about, or is the stock one already a class 5 and sufficient? I can't seem to find any info on the GMC pages.

Thanks so much!

Brian

[Grit_dog]

goducks10 wrote:
Sweet looking combo.

What he said ^ !

[goducks10]

Sweet looking combo.

[ApexAZ]

Picture of truck with trailer:

[Lantley]

Yes thats the model. Beware it does not come with a battery.
I have lots of other Dewalt tools so I already have batteries.
Dewalt also makes a 12 volt jump box / inflator combo for 160.00 and 199.00.
That maybe worthwhile if you don't already own dewalt batteries.
I am really impressed with is how well it works.
A compessor can do a lot of things other than inflate tires.
However if all you are trying to do is inflate your tires. I highly recommend the Dewalt inflator.

[Grit_dog]

ApexAZ wrote:
Dang, I'm not much of a RAM guy (mainly because it feels like less headroom), but that is a nice truck. I like the vintage chevy too.

Thanks! I'm a big GM/Duramax fan as well. The mud bogger truck isn't ours, just a pic form a gas station in bfe Montana.
This is our old GMC.


Currently in 1000 pieces and almost ready to paint.

[Grit_dog]

ApexAZ wrote:

Yes. There are two hoses. The leak is dripping from one of them. I honestly didn't spend a lot of time looking at it, but the hose is clamped to a plastic fitting and it appears to be leaking at that connection. It didn't feel loose really, but maybe the clamp needs to be tightened down and/or more sealant applied.


By the way, are furnaces typically propane only, or can they be run off electric when connected to shore power? The fridge does this, but unsure if the furnace will too. Also, the furnace just seems to be sitting loose in it's cubby. Are they supposed to be bolted down? I was kinda surprised to find that it's just sitting on the floor not fastened to anything.

Yes mine was the clamp on the supply line to the fitting. Crimped clamp, cut it off and put another hose clamp on it.

Furnace is propane only (and 12V to run the fan).
It should be secured. Mine is, but the power center (breaker panel/converter) was just flopping around, as was the stereo.

[ApexAZ]

Thanks! This is exactly what I was looking for. It is less than 3 lbs and seems to be fairly compact. Is this the same model?

https://www.dewalt.com/products/storage-and-gear/air-compressors/20v-max-cordedcordless-air-inflator/dcc020ib

The Viair seems to be popular too, but 300 bucks seems like a lot for topping off tires. Although once you add the battery the dewalt isn't that much farther off, except that it can be used with other tools at least.

EDIT: I must have posted before your link popped up. I'll pick one of these up. Thanks again!

[Lantley]

Dewalt Tire Inflator

[Lantley]

For infalting tires I can officially say compressors are obsolete.
Even thogh I still have a craftman compressor in the basement of my 5'er.
I just purchased a Dewalt dedicated tire inflator and it work like a champ.
Just attach it to the stem. It reads the current pressure of the tires.
Set it to desired pressure and let do its thing.
It will take longer than a traditional compressor. But it get the job done.
It will air my 235/80/r16 G rated Sailun tire to 110 PSI without issue.
Now if your filling a tire from a dead flat, the inflator may struggle.
But if your just topping off a tire of filling a low tire its the way to go. Much easier than carrying a compressor.
I was skeptical of this little toy gadget . But after using a few times I am a believer. Carrying a compressor is not necessary.

[ApexAZ]

Dang, I'm not much of a RAM guy (mainly because it feels like less headroom), but that is a nice truck. I like the vintage chevy too.

Grit dog wrote:

On this scale, what would 40" Swampers be? "Pre-natal" tires?

lol

Grit dog wrote:

Also, your toilet leak, is it the supply line/valve dripping? Where it goes into the toilet. I had a drip there this year, appeared to be the valve leaking, replaced it and then found the connection was just loose. (Looked like it was coming from the push button end of the valve though)

Yes. There are two hoses. The leak is dripping from one of them. I honestly didn't spend a lot of time looking at it, but the hose is clamped to a plastic fitting and it appears to be leaking at that connection. It didn't feel loose really, but maybe the clamp needs to be tightened down and/or more sealant applied.

Other than taking it out to practice in reverse next weekend, we don't plan to use it until December anyway, so I just left it for the dealership to deal with. I'll just ask them to prioritize that and the furnace fan issue in case they can't get to everything on the list before we need to take it back for our trip in December. The furnace noise is concerning, because it sounds like something is rubbing on the fan blade and I'm worried it is a wire. I took the panel off to try and get a look at it, but can't really see without taking the entire furnace out.

By the way, are furnaces typically propane only, or can they be run off electric when connected to shore power? The fridge does this, but unsure if the furnace will too. Also, the furnace just seems to be sitting loose in it's cubby. Are they supposed to be bolted down? I was kinda surprised to find that it's just sitting on the floor not fastened to anything.

[Grit_dog]

ApexAZ wrote:

EDIT: Attached a pic of the truck (with kiddie tires) and trailer. I'll get one of both in a week or so.

I'll see your "kidde" tires and raise you a set of "infantile" tires! LOL
On this scale, what would 40" Swampers be? "Pre-natal" tires?



And some "barely an itch in your daddy's shorts" tires!




Also, your toilet leak, is it the supply line/valve dripping? Where it goes into the toilet. I had a drip there this year, appeared to be the valve leaking, replaced it and then found the connection was just loose. (Looked like it was coming from the push button end of the valve though)

[Grit_dog]

Shoot, Mr Benk, I know ya have a 1 ton Burb (very nice example of one at that), but to glom onto BackofthePack's diatribe, which I've read multiple times, pretty sure it's at the ready to cut n paste anytime, with minor modifications, and then talk about upgrading this n that on the OP's truck sure makes it sound like you don't understand the OP has a brand new, arguably the most capable srw truck on the road. With a 20klb bumper pull rating and a payload big enough to handle 3 of his tongue weights at the same time (not on the hitch of course, would over laod that rating...), why the fuss over track width due to a small lift and bigger sway bars, etc.
You said it yourself, dragging 14k behind a 70's technology half ton, what would give any pause or even remote need to upgrade ANYTHING on the OP's truck to pull half it's factory tow rating +/-?

While I'm sure it is meant to be helpful, I have to wonder how many "newbies" leave this forum to run down to the truck shop and do all kinds of needless "upgrades" to make the most capable, safest vehicles on the road, to date, even more "safe"?

I'm only trying to add an element of common sense and practicality to the plethora of "recommendations" that get posted here regularly, that are somewhere out in left field.

My opinion, your opinion, they differ.

[BenK]

Well..kinda sorta have 1 ton truck experience...and add just for poops and giggles...have designed industrial disc brakes & wind generator disc brakes up to 48" in dia...among many other things...


Did the work myself, installing a Dana 60 front and GM 14 bolt rear axles on my K5 Blazer, which are 1 ton axles. And the attendant stuff that goes with all of that upgrade. Like a 2" lift kit and sandbar cage. Also changed out the 22 gallon main tank with an aftermarket 50 gallon main tank.

Didn't tow much with the K5 as knew short wheel based 4x4's & trucks didn't handle the trailer well in adverse condition as tried to tow with my 1970 FJ40. The pic was before deciding to tow with and added a receiver.

Picture is from a trip to Boise, Idaho before making those changes.

Click For Full-Size Image.


My current 1996 K3500 Suburban was ordered with the F60 option (snow plow prep), which is the 1 ton front torsion bars and the 14 bolt rear is the same as the dually's of that same year. Only difference is the leaf spring pack and brake cylinder & MC, which has been changed to that.

Click For Full-Size Image.


As for tire pump (12VDC, 150PSI), have this in the Suburban's tool box. Modified by changing out the power cord to 12Ga x about 20' Vulkin insulation...left over from work for a nuclear bridge crane for TVA


Click For Full-Size Image.


Have a 5HP, 2 stage, 40 gallon stationary compressor in the garage and this is my 5HP portable (wheelbarrow) air compressor for remodeling properties

Click For Full-Size Image.


Add that have towed too often a 14,000 lb trailer behind my old 1980 C10 Silverado Big Ten (the unicorn HD half ton of that era). Not just freeway, but out on the wind farms of Tehachapi & Altamont Pass with that setup.

Done with this thread...

[Grit_dog]

Regarding air, if you’re just filling tires, your pancake will do the job as you’ve found.
Note what pressure you need in the rear tires. It’s not 80psi or likely even close to it.
My 37s only need about 45psi with the camper and the fronts don’t change.
I bought a little Viair for filling my airbags as our 2016 doesn’t have onboard air like I had rigged off the exh brake on the old truck. It’s a small one and would get me out of the woods with a tire but not ideal, even the larger ones, for regular duty.
Honestly, just go get a good size air compressor for the shop. Once you have one you’ll realize how handy it is!