Would You Caulk This Shower Tub?

[DallasSteve]

Below is a photo of the shower tub in my new trailer. When I showered the first few times I notice some water leaking in the hall on the other side of the shower wall. Not a lot, but it was there. I realized that what was happening was that I unintentionally pointed the hand held shower at the edge of the tub where it meets the shower wall and some water seeped through to the other side. Rookie mistake, I know. I've been careful to avoid that since then and I haven't seen any more water leaking near the tub.

So I had the idea that I should caulk the edge of the tub and that would prevent any more leaks. I went to Walmart and bought some caulk, but I was cleaning the bathroom yesterday and I thought about how every bath I've ever owned or rented had caulk at the edge and it got the icky black or red mold that I could never completely clean out of the caulk. (I think 'icky' is the scientific term. I remember there was a TV show for kids in Dallas 50 years ago and the master of ceremonies was named Icky Twerp. He wore a cowboy hat that was much too small. I miss ol' Icky.)

So I have pretty much decided I'm not going to caulk this tub. I can take the caulk back to Walmart for a refund. Save your receipts. Do you agree? I think that may be why Jayco didn't caulk the tub in the first place. That and to save a few dollars.

[poppa]

Second Chance wrote:
I would not - and here's the reason. The lip at the bottom of the shower surround indicates that it overlaps an outer lip on the bottom portion. This allows any condensation between the liner and whatever surface it's mounted on to drain out. Sealing it would seal in any moisture that's there. If it had been sealed when constructed and perfectly dry, that would be another thing - but not now after use. Other's may have differing opinions.

Rob

probably a leak on you drain or shower hose in the wall

[DallasSteve]

wnjj wrote:

What Jerry said plus if you are in even a slight turn when you finish backing in the ball is more difficult to separate. Another thing I find helps is to chock the trailer then put the truck in neutral and let off the brakes for a second to reduce the fore-aft pressure. If you’re on a slope use just a second of drive or reverse (with no gas) instead as needed.

I'll try to remember those tips. I think one time I did give it a slight move forward or back to help it separate. I'll try to keep the truck as straight as I can when I am ready to unhook.

[wnjj]

MFL wrote:
Dallas Steve said: " That and when I try to unhook it the hitch won't let go until I have raised up the back bumper of the truck a few inches. Is that normal?"

Yes, that is normal, especially with new trailer coupler, and new ball. A lube will help. I've always used a Teflon based trailer ball lube on all my trailers. It is less greasy, but super slick, and lasts longer. I put a little on the under side of coupler, and light coat on the ball.

Like all things that fit tight, it will wear in with use.

Have a good evening,

Jerry

What Jerry said plus if you are in even a slight turn when you finish backing in the ball is more difficult to separate. Another thing I find helps is to chock the trailer then put the truck in neutral and let off the brakes for a second to reduce the fore-aft pressure. If you’re on a slope use just a second of drive or reverse (with no gas) instead as needed.

[MFL]

Dallas Steve said: " That and when I try to unhook it the hitch won't let go until I have raised up the back bumper of the truck a few inches. Is that normal?"

Yes, that is normal, especially with new trailer coupler, and new ball. A lube will help. I've always used a Teflon based trailer ball lube on all my trailers. It is less greasy, but super slick, and lasts longer. I put a little on the under side of coupler, and light coat on the ball.

Like all things that fit tight, it will wear in with use.

Have a good evening,

Jerry

[DallasSteve]

MFL wrote:
I agree with others, nothing needed there. My shower needed additional caulking when new, due to the vertical areas, where the stall touched the wall had some gaps.

BTW.. Is that new truck getting any smaller yet? All the trips to the store, and parking required, you should be getting used to it by now. 🙂

Jerry

Thanks for all the replies.

Jerry, I'm pretty used to driving my F-250 now, but I still don't try to squeeze it into regular parking spaces near a store. I park it at the back of the lot or far enough away that others don't want to park near me. But it did a fine job of pulling my 37 foot trailer. I never felt like it was a problem, except when it was raining it got a little slippery sometimes, so I slowed down a bit. And I am not using a WDH (hitch). My biggest concern is getting the 2 of them in and out of tight campgrounds, but I'm set up now for the summer and come fall when I head south I will try to scope out RV parks and roads that aren't too tight for me. That and when I try to unhook it the hitch won't let go until I have raised up the back bumper of the truck a few inches. Is that normal?

[monkey44]

Second Chance is correct. 🙂

[Grit_dog]

The bigger issue is either your description of how it leaked out. Pointing the water spray at that seam should not cause any leak whatsoever unless you managed to shoot water “upwards”.

[MFL]

I agree with others, nothing needed there. My shower needed additional caulking when new, due to the vertical areas, where the stall touched the wall had some gaps.

BTW.. Is that new truck getting any smaller yet? All the trips to the store, and parking required, you should be getting used to it by now. 🙂

Jerry

[ScottG]

No.
I had to take my entire tub and shower surround out because it had been installed wrong, resulting in a cracked tub. It looked exactly like yours and I can tell you the surround overlaps a flange around the tub by a good inch. On mine, there was absolutely no sign of any water having ever leaked around there.
There's no way any sealant would live long there anyway.
I would leave it alone.

[Grit_dog]

I agree, the hidden lip on the shower pan “should” not require caulk there. Plus campers are flimsy and flex a lot. Especially the showers.
However you also shouldn’t be able to make that leak, easily like you did.
So, flip a coin I suppose.
Or figure out why that spot is sensitive to water intrusion.

[Cummins12V98]

NOPE

[Second_Chance]

I would not - and here's the reason. The lip at the bottom of the shower surround indicates that it overlaps an outer lip on the bottom portion. This allows any condensation between the liner and whatever surface it's mounted on to drain out. Sealing it would seal in any moisture that's there. If it had been sealed when constructed and perfectly dry, that would be another thing - but not now after use. Other's may have differing opinions.

Rob