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3000W Chinese Gensets Info.

professor95
Explorer
Explorer
professor95 wrote:
EDIT ADDED 45/5/2013- When this thread started in March of 2005, I never expected to see it survive this long or amass the quantity of information that has been shared here.

In the eight year run of this thread we have amassed almost 10,000 postings and surpassed a million views. This creates somewhat of a dilemma for anyone who has just discovered the forum.

Since the amount of information is virtually overwhelming, I suggest you set your preferences for this thread to read "newest first" and then begin to page backwards.

What you will find in these pages is a wealth of info on virtually any make or model of Chinese manufactured synchronous (non-inverter) generator in the 3,000 watt performance class. Info will include how to rewire series coils to parallel to obtain maximum wattage from a single 120 volt outlet. Tips on further reducing sound levels, how to care for these generators, which ones are "RV ready" and provide the best overall performance for the dollar invested. Which companies NOT to deal with, where the best prices are, how to safely wire the generator into a home or RV, how to check your RV for electrical faults, sources for generator accessories, which 20/30 adapters are safe to use and which are not. How to convert a gasoline generator to propane or NG. This is only the beginning. The forum has a life of its own with the focus sub-topic switching frequently. Still, the main topic of utilizing the amazing, inexpensive Chinese gensets is always there. The amount of creativity and innovation presented in these pages is indicative of the talents shared in the diverse backgrounds of the folks who make up our combined RV community.

Many of the original brands and models of Chinese gensets mentioned in the introduction and early pages of the thread have since disappeared. New EPA and CARB emissions requirements, company bonds assuring the emissions warranty will be honored even if the company goes out of business, and fierce competition in the industry have changed the playing field. Champion Power Equipment has become the apparent "trophy team" providing an ever expanding retail outlet, an ample parts supply, a strong warranty and excellent customer service. CPE has continued to improve their product and now offers a new model (#46538) with exclusive convenience, safety and performance features aimed at the RV market. Big names like Cummins/Onan, Honda and Generac all now have Chinese built open frame synchronous gensets available. Ironically, the prices often found on these gensets has not significantly changed during the past eight years - even with the devaluation of the American Dollar and new EPA/CARB requirements.

I also encourage you to use the search function and even the advanced search options to find information. Key works such as "rewiring", "PowerPro", "Champion", "Onan Homesite", "Duropower", "ETQ", "Jiung Dong or JD", "Tractor Supply", "Costco", "Lowe's" and "Home Depot" are all examples of keywords that will give you specific information on different models being sold by retailers today.

Or, you can fill your glass with your favorite beverage (keep more close by - maybe some munchies as well :D, sit back at your computer, tell your wife (or significant other) that you will see her in the morning and spend the next 10 or so hours reading through the postings.

No one on the forum gets mad if you ask a question that is a repeat. Please do not hesitate to post to the forum. All questions are considered important and those active on the forum will do their best to respond with a valid answer.

Also note we are not out to knock the Honda, Yamaha, Kipor or other brands of high end digital gensets. We recognize the quality of these products and their suitability for quite, efficient RV use. But, there is a flood of reliable, inexpensive and comparatively lower cost gensets coming out of China that are excellent alternative choices for the RVer wanting power to run an air conditioner, microwave, etc. without excessive noise or breaking the budget.

Oh, one last thing. The folks on this forum are true gentlemen. We do not flame one another or the product discussed - period. Ugly contributors usually have their comments and remarks ignored by our masses. It is not a forum to start arguments to obtain a clear win. We do disagree on many issues, but we have all agreed to do that in a respectable manner.

We now have the introduction of more and more inverter gensets. There is a rather extensive thread named "The Official Unofficial Champion 2000i Generator" on this forum. Today, I added info on the new Champion 3100i inverter genset. Discussion on this product may get moved to its own thread at a later date.

Many have looked upon this thread with distain saying Chinese is cheap and doomed to failure. I remember saying exactly the same thing about Japanese products a few decades back. But, over the past eight years the track record for Chinese built generators has shown otherwise.

Please, join us in a fascinating journey down the Chinese built genset road of knowledge.

This is the question I posted that got it all started back in March 2005.......

Randy


For a little over a month now, I have been somewhat intrigued by the availability of a 3000 watt, 6.5 HP generator at Pep Boys and Northern Tool for under $300.00. The engine on this generator looks identical to a Honda 6.5 HP OHV engine. Knowing that the Chinese have become very adept at โ€œcloningโ€ reputable technologies from other manufacturers, I was not surprised at the similarities. Neither store could give me any information on the generator nor did they have a โ€œrunningโ€ display model.

I have done a little research. This is what I have discovered:

Many of these generators are imported by ELIM International (www.eliminternational.com) out of Buffalo, New York from Jiung Manufacturing in China. (The unit at Northern is identical but carries the JIUNG name.)

The engines are indeed a Chinese knockoff of the popular 6.5 HP 196cc Honda Engine. โ€œSupposedlyโ€ Honda has licensed the engine technology to the Chinese manufacturer of the product.

The Chinese company that makes the ELM3000 generators is a rather large, diverse, long-standing company with a reputation for โ€œabove average qualityโ€ Chinese made products (Jiung Manufacturing). There are many more Chinese companies making almost identical gensets.

The generators at PepBoys do have a six month limited warranty. But, it is only on the engine (not the generator) and requires paying for shipping to and from Buffalo. Probably not a very practical thing to do if you have warranty issues.

ELIM does supply replacement parts (a PDF parts manual is available on the ELIM web site). No prices are given for replacement parts nor is there an โ€œavailability listingโ€.

The generator head itself is a brushless design. The only really significant wear parts in the generator are the bearings โ€“ most likely universally available.

The published dB rating is 67 at 23 feet. This is โ€œreasonablyโ€ quite for a generator of this size as most comparabl.... The 67 dB rating is the same as Honda gives their 3000 watt CycloInverter with a โ€œlook alikeโ€ eng...






















Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the totally ruined Dachshund.
2009 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 class 8 MotorHome conversion as toter.
Turbocharged, 12L, 465 HP and 1,800 ft. Lbs. of torque.
10,029 REPLIES 10,029

jinman730
Explorer
Explorer
Recieved my 3500/3000 Champion from Costco last Friday. Added all the right fluids, added wheels and the handle, so excited when it came to life. Then immediately hooked my camper up, turned everything off I could turn off, and turned on my 15000 btu carrier air conditioner. then so disappointed, after 3 or 4 times it did start it but clearly was struggling. So my question is what is a sure size to run my air without going overboard?

77charger
Explorer
Explorer
jbobst wrote:
I wanted to relay my first experience this past weekend with our new Champion 3000-3500 generator and see if anyone has any advice for the problem I ran into:

I recently bought the 3000-3500 Remote start Champion unit from Costco, and used it with my motorhome this past weekend for the first time. It ran great the first night, as it ran for about 9 hours through the night, powering my Air Conditioner. I then gave it a break for about two hours in the early morning hours when it was fairly cool outside. As the morning got warmer around 9am, I filled it back up with gas, and started it back up again to run the A/C during the day. It ran for about an hour or so just fine, but then it seemed to do this thing where it bogged down and sounded like it was barely running and about ready to putter out at any second. I immediately shut it down, and let it sit for about an hour, then tried to restart it. It started up just fine, and ran again for about 30-40 minutes just fine, then did the same thing where it bogged down and was barely operating. Instead of shutting it down immediately like I did the first time, I just pulled out the electrical plug to put it in a no load state...hoping it would resume it's normal engine rpm and sound once it had no load on it. I let it run for about a minute or so like this, but even with no load, it still wouldn't get back into it's normal engine hum or sound...it was still bogged down. I shut it off for the rest of the day, and just ran my onboard Onan. That night, I fired up the champion again. It started up fine and sounded normal. I monitored it for a few minutes with no load, and it seemed to run fine, so I then put a load on it. It ran perfectly the whole night through for about 10 hours. The next day, I again gave it a break during the cooler morning hours, but this time, when I went to start it back up again for the day, I put it under a large shade tree. My suspicion was that the problems it had the first day were potentially heat related. The first day, I had it out in the full sun when it started giving me problems. I also had a piece of plywood on one side of the generator trying to deflect some of the noise away from the motorhome. Although, the plywood did have about a 2 foot space between it and the generator.

Because it ran so well at night, and never gave me problems during the second day when I had it in the shade the whole time, I can only assume this thing is fairly susceptible to over heating. We were in Arizona, but we were camping in Sierra Vista, which is a somewhat higher elevation for Arizona (still high desert though). We did have a fairly mild weekend with temperatures, but I am just wondering if anyone could maybe confirm my suspicion of the problems being related to heat? Also, there really wasn't any additional load on the generator the day it gave me problems, other than the AC of course.

Thanks for any advice.

I dont think it was a heat issue.When i had my champion i ran mine at glamis in the summertime from fri night to sun morning constant and running the a/c the whole time.It was probably 110 outside during the day.This was when it was newer and it went flawlessly the whole time.

toprudder
Explorer
Explorer
jbobst wrote:
Because it ran so well at night, and never gave me problems during the second day when I had it in the shade the whole time, I can only assume this thing is fairly susceptible to over heating. We were in Arizona, but we were camping in Sierra Vista, which is a somewhat higher elevation for Arizona (still high desert though). We did have a fairly mild weekend with temperatures, but I am just wondering if anyone could maybe confirm my suspicion of the problems being related to heat? Also, there really wasn't any additional load on the generator the day it gave me problems, other than the AC of course.

With an altitude of around 5000ft, and temps in the mid 90s, that is a fairly high density altitude, somewhere around 8500. Could be the engine is running too rich. I had an Onan that did exactly the same thing you describe, the low-speed jet was too lean (tamper-proof, non-adjustable) so the last person to work on it adjusted the high-speed needle rich to compensate for it. In hot weather, under a load, it would bog down and not clear itself even when the load was removed. I ended up popping the tamper-proof ๐Ÿ™‚ cover off the low-speed needle, adjusted both needles correctly, and got it running normal again.

Even with the fuel mixture correct and at that altitude, you are probably only getting 70% power. Also consider that the thinner air will cool the engine and gen-head less efficiently, so you really need to derate the generator to something a lot less than 3000 watts, IMHO.
Bob, Martha, and Matt.
Tucker, the Toy Poodle
'09 K-Z MXT20, '07 Chevy 2500HD Duramax

Toprudder.com

jbobst
Explorer
Explorer
I wanted to relay my first experience this past weekend with our new Champion 3000-3500 generator and see if anyone has any advice for the problem I ran into:

I recently bought the 3000-3500 Remote start Champion unit from Costco, and used it with my motorhome this past weekend for the first time. It ran great the first night, as it ran for about 9 hours through the night, powering my Air Conditioner. I then gave it a break for about two hours in the early morning hours when it was fairly cool outside. As the morning got warmer around 9am, I filled it back up with gas, and started it back up again to run the A/C during the day. It ran for about an hour or so just fine, but then it seemed to do this thing where it bogged down and sounded like it was barely running and about ready to putter out at any second. I immediately shut it down, and let it sit for about an hour, then tried to restart it. It started up just fine, and ran again for about 30-40 minutes just fine, then did the same thing where it bogged down and was barely operating. Instead of shutting it down immediately like I did the first time, I just pulled out the electrical plug to put it in a no load state...hoping it would resume it's normal engine rpm and sound once it had no load on it. I let it run for about a minute or so like this, but even with no load, it still wouldn't get back into it's normal engine hum or sound...it was still bogged down. I shut it off for the rest of the day, and just ran my onboard Onan. That night, I fired up the champion again. It started up fine and sounded normal. I monitored it for a few minutes with no load, and it seemed to run fine, so I then put a load on it. It ran perfectly the whole night through for about 10 hours. The next day, I again gave it a break during the cooler morning hours, but this time, when I went to start it back up again for the day, I put it under a large shade tree. My suspicion was that the problems it had the first day were potentially heat related. The first day, I had it out in the full sun when it started giving me problems. I also had a piece of plywood on one side of the generator trying to deflect some of the noise away from the motorhome. Although, the plywood did have about a 2 foot space between it and the generator.

Because it ran so well at night, and never gave me problems during the second day when I had it in the shade the whole time, I can only assume this thing is fairly susceptible to over heating. We were in Arizona, but we were camping in Sierra Vista, which is a somewhat higher elevation for Arizona (still high desert though). We did have a fairly mild weekend with temperatures, but I am just wondering if anyone could maybe confirm my suspicion of the problems being related to heat? Also, there really wasn't any additional load on the generator the day it gave me problems, other than the AC of course.

Thanks for any advice.

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
"...Last night we tested it with some assorted loads:
it ran a box fan fine, it ran a hair dryer on both low and high
without any problem. It struggled to run a vacuum cleaner, but the
RPMs did eventually settle out after about 5-10 seconds and it ran OK.
It will not run a Craftsman portable 6 HP 33 gallon air compressor at
all.

"The generator would not run the vacuum and hair dryer together,
either. The whole thing would shake like a paint mixer and the engine
RPMS were erratic, just like when the air compressor was hooked up.


a 6hp is that peak surge or running, thats is 5000+ watts
how big was the vacuum, 3hp shopvac = 2226 running watts, start up surge could be 5kw



"With no load, on 120V setting, the generator was producing a pretty
steady 13.9 - 14.2 amps. The fan as a test load had a negligible
effect on the amperage read out; the hair dryer test would drop the
amps to around 13 even; and the vacuum would drop it to about mid-10s
to low-11s. The vacuum and hair dryer together would pull the amps
down to mid- to high-8s, but again, the shaking and erratic RPMs meant
the unit was not functioning properly."

Shouldn't the 30A plug be producing nearly 30A, not 1/2 that? And why can't a 4000W surge/3500W service rated generator run a vacuum and a hair dryer at the same time? If it can't run those two, how can I expect it to run our TT's A/C and fridge at the same time?


where? what wire? did you read those amps, the more load the more amps
it sounds like you were reading the power to ONLY one load
as you added items/load the power available for the load you where reading went down because the other loads where using power


fridge on electric from the genny ? terrible waste of gasoline , leave the fridge on propane, and let the genny have that 300-500 watts of power available for other things, same goes for the Water Heater. set it to propane because the WH has a 1500w heating element, using a 3kw power unit to try an run Everything in the RV on electric is NOT efficient and does NOT work very well, and I don't know anybody that would run the vacuum and hair dryer at the same time, (maybe IF DD was drying hair while mom wanted to vacuum , but thats very unusual), the converter will always be using some power so that has to be subtracted from whats available

3kw EXAMPLE: "for US" the batteries are low in the morning and converter is drawing max power,
so converter & coffee maker are the only major items on, plus one or two CCFL lights,
heat IF needed will come from propane, not electric, WH off or on Propane, fridge is always on propane, IF its hot 12v fans will be on, A/C will have to wait until the coffee is made and BIG point here..until the converter has run at least an HR and has reduced its power draw.. converters are NOT power efficient.. a converter putting 50a/700w into the batteries is using over 900w to do so.
900w for the coffee & 900w for the converter = 1800w , so NO morning A/C or morning Electric heater, at this point/time of day .. even the hair dryer will push a 3k portable over the limit using full heat, and on the edge using low heat.

its all about power management, not torture testing with a 6hp load!
even a pair of 2kw hondaUI's would not work well with some of these combined loads
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

pritch272
Explorer
Explorer
Boy Racer wrote:

...

"With no load, on 120V setting, the generator was producing a pretty
steady 13.9 - 14.2 amps. The fan as a test load had a negligible
effect on the amperage read out; the hair dryer test would drop the
amps to around 13 even; and the vacuum would drop it to about mid-10s
to low-11s. The vacuum and hair dryer together would pull the amps
down to mid- to high-8s, but again, the shaking and erratic RPMs meant
the unit was not functioning properly."

...



? Doesn't make sense. Current produced is directly related to demand on devices connected and turned on. Current should not decrease as more stuff is powered on.

No load should be no amps.... Something is consuming the power, perhaps a converter?
2007 Keystone Laredo 29RL, 2000 Ford F250 7.3 PSD, Firestone bags, Pressure Pro, 16" Michelin XPS Ribs, MorRyde Pin Box, Dexter EZ-Flex, PI EMS-HW30C, Dirt Devil CV950 Central Vacuum, 2000W AllPower by Kipor, 4000/3500W Champion C46540

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
did you ever think to run some Sea Foam thru it occasionally and remove the excess carbon from the cylinder and the exhaust system
carbon in the cylinder restricts intake reducing power, carbon in the exhaust increases back pressure making the engine work harder to produce the same amount of output power

fixed speed engines need this every few hundred hours, the number hrs varies with the engine and how hard its being worked, i believe onan says every 500hr or maybe its even less

I don't remember if the champ has a recommended time interval but its something i do with all generators


I had a champ as well and it did work great when new and for a while after.Last year it was starting to struggle staring the air on my camper and toyhauler.It was now a couple years old and alot of hours on it.even a lil 1500 watt heater or the micro would put some strain on the gen too.Finally jsut bought another gen
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

JConatser
Explorer
Explorer
Error...disregard.
Ameri-Lite 24RB
2003 Chevy 1500 Ext Cab, 5.7L
Equal-i-zer Hitch

77charger
Explorer
Explorer
Boy Racer wrote:
Max49 wrote:

We've had this generator for 3.5 years now and it's worked great. Until this year. Previously, on three different TTs the generator has run the roof air great. Now we've got a 2010 Outback with a 13.5k Coleman Mach III, and the Champion won't run it. A 4000W surge rating at 29+ amps, and it won't start the A/C?!? Really?

The engine runs fine, the governor varies the RPMs as usual, it starts first pull every time. But as my wife and I would test it with variable loads, the harder the load, the more it will struggle and shake and eventually stall from the strain.

From the e-mail I sent to Champion Tech support on Wednesday morning June 30 (which no one answered, so I went ahead and follow-up called them Friday afternoon):

"...Last night we tested it with some assorted loads:
it ran a box fan fine, it ran a hair dryer on both low and high
without any problem. It struggled to run a vacuum cleaner, but the
RPMs did eventually settle out after about 5-10 seconds and it ran OK.
It will not run a Craftsman portable 6 HP 33 gallon air compressor at
all.

"The generator would not run the vacuum and hair dryer together,
either. The whole thing would shake like a paint mixer and the engine
RPMS were erratic, just like when the air compressor was hooked up.

"With no load, on 120V setting, the generator was producing a pretty
steady 13.9 - 14.2 amps. The fan as a test load had a negligible
effect on the amperage read out; the hair dryer test would drop the
amps to around 13 even; and the vacuum would drop it to about mid-10s
to low-11s. The vacuum and hair dryer together would pull the amps
down to mid- to high-8s, but again, the shaking and erratic RPMs meant
the unit was not functioning properly."

Shouldn't the 30A plug be producing nearly 30A, not 1/2 that? And why can't a 4000W surge/3500W service rated generator run a vacuum and a hair dryer at the same time? If it can't run those two, how can I expect it to run our TT's A/C and fridge at the same time?

I had a champ as well and it did work great when new and for a while after.Last year it was starting to struggle staring the air on my camper and toyhauler.It was now a couple years old and alot of hours on it.even a lil 1500 watt heater or the micro would put some strain on the gen too.Finally jsut bought another gen.

IMO i really dont think the surge is as high as claimed cause my new gen can start my home air compressor without struggle and its only a 3k surge while my champ when new struggled or i had to manually rev up the motor as the compressor started but once started it ran easily.

Will say that the champs are a great buy for the money and feel i got my moneys worth out of it.

JConatser
Explorer
Explorer
Just wondering, Boy Racer ... what kind of maintenance and/or tune-up work has been done on the gennie during it's life time?
Ameri-Lite 24RB
2003 Chevy 1500 Ext Cab, 5.7L
Equal-i-zer Hitch

Boy_Racer
Explorer
Explorer
Max49 wrote:
Hi guys, Sorry to change the subject but I think this is my best place to get help or advice for my problem.

I have the Champion 46515 RV ready 3500 W. I bought it specifically to save some hrs on the installed 5500 Onan. It seems like it runs great but it either just can't start the AC or sometimes it will but struggles.
I thought it would run one AC easily. I live in Colorado, and most of my camping trips are in the mountains, so I now realize that I'm losing power at 8 or 9000' elevation.
My questions are;
1- Would raising the RPM a little help? I have a Sendec hour meter/ tachometer on it.

2- Does any one have a link where I can buy a Hard Start assist like a Supco SPP6 or any known model that works well?

3- Possibly the most difficult question, Does any one know how/ or where to hook it up to a Carrier 13500 Air V AC with the remote control control pad?

I really appreciate your help. I really don't even need my little Champion if it can't run my AC
We're having pretty much the same problem with our Champion C46540, actually. I called Champion customer service last Friday, and honestly the guy on the other end couldn't have sounded like he cared less about my generator issue. In short order he rather suggested I take it to an "authorized repair center" near my home, and when I go there this morning at 7:00 A.M, they told me "we only work on small engines, not generators". Great.

We've had this generator for 3.5 years now and it's worked great. Until this year. Previously, on three different TTs the generator has run the roof air great. Now we've got a 2010 Outback with a 13.5k Coleman Mach III, and the Champion won't run it. A 4000W surge rating at 29+ amps, and it won't start the A/C?!? Really?

The engine runs fine, the governor varies the RPMs as usual, it starts first pull every time. But as my wife and I would test it with variable loads, the harder the load, the more it will struggle and shake and eventually stall from the strain.

From the e-mail I sent to Champion Tech support on Wednesday morning June 30 (which no one answered, so I went ahead and follow-up called them Friday afternoon):

"...Last night we tested it with some assorted loads:
it ran a box fan fine, it ran a hair dryer on both low and high
without any problem. It struggled to run a vacuum cleaner, but the
RPMs did eventually settle out after about 5-10 seconds and it ran OK.
It will not run a Craftsman portable 6 HP 33 gallon air compressor at
all.

"The generator would not run the vacuum and hair dryer together,
either. The whole thing would shake like a paint mixer and the engine
RPMS were erratic, just like when the air compressor was hooked up.

"With no load, on 120V setting, the generator was producing a pretty
steady 13.9 - 14.2 amps. The fan as a test load had a negligible
effect on the amperage read out; the hair dryer test would drop the
amps to around 13 even; and the vacuum would drop it to about mid-10s
to low-11s. The vacuum and hair dryer together would pull the amps
down to mid- to high-8s, but again, the shaking and erratic RPMs meant
the unit was not functioning properly."

Shouldn't the 30A plug be producing nearly 30A, not 1/2 that? And why can't a 4000W surge/3500W service rated generator run a vacuum and a hair dryer at the same time? If it can't run those two, how can I expect it to run our TT's A/C and fridge at the same time?

gramps1941
Explorer
Explorer
do youhave a wiring diagram of your ac. Compare it with one on mod my rv or check with a ac person.
gramps1941

Max49
Explorer
Explorer
Gramps1941, That is a great article on mod my rv. com. The only variable is: has any one done this on a Carrier Air V AC. Is it a simple swap, plug and play?
Max05 Damon Daybreak, 35' WHParker, Colorado

jlaustin
Explorer
Explorer
A SHORT HISTORY OF QUIET CHINESE GENSETS!

First, there was the internal combustion engine.
Then, the muffler was invented.
Then, the portable generator was invented.
Then, the Chinese copied it.
Then, the Professor "repurposed" the cardboard box.
Then, there was the GenTent.
And now, there is the "Sound Shroud" ... and I've got data!


Here's the setup:
DuroPower 3500ES (electric start) with OEM foam-lined metal enclosure panels, modified with
1) LPG conversion
2) Remote start, manual push button start, enclosed control panel
3) 1/4" Hardiebacker panels all 4 sides and top
4) 500 cfm ventilation fan in top
5) Top carpet-lined and hood added to create ventilation exhaust duct
6) Alternator forced cooling duct with 124 cfm fan
7) Alternator exhaust cooling digital thermometer
๐Ÿ˜Ž RV 30A female pigtail
9) Receiver hitch mount
10) Header/muffler/exhaust wrapped with header wrap and exhaust defuser, exhaust re-oriented down rather than out the genset's side
Here's how all that looks:


With the "Sound Shroud":


The "Sound Shroud" evolved from the Professor's video of how effective a simple cardboard box is for sound reduction. I stumbled across a poly washing machine pan in my garage that had a broken corner. It just struck me that it might make a good starting point for a folding "box" for the genset. I remembered I had another pan over at the old farmhouse sitting under a defunct washing machine. I cut a couple of inches off of one end of one pan so it would nest inside the other (and to get rid of the broken end) and hinged them together with rivets and nylon webbing. I lined the inside of the shorter pan (now the rear wall of the shroud) with carpeting. (3M 77 or 90 spray adhesive will bond to poly plastic - 90's best) I laminated two 4mm thick 24" x 26" sheets of Coroplast (corrugated plastic - a 4' x8' sheet was $20) for each sidewall. (If you orient the two sheets so the corrugations are at right angles, you'll get a stronger, warp-free panel) I bound the edges of the panels with Gorrila tape for durability, and used Gorrila tape to hinge the side panels off of the back poly panel. (If you prime the poly plastic with spray adhesive and let it get tacky, the Gorrila tape will stick tightly) The top outer ends of the side panels are velcro'd to the lid to hold them in place. Not shown in the picture is a short piece of PVC that will be tie-wrapped to the bottom of the genset's frame to support the front lower side panels - I'll probably use Velcro to hold that in place, too.

The whole thing folds flat to about 2 1/2" thick and is fairly light weight.(See the teaser photo a few posts back!);)

Here's the real-world data (genset mounted on back of FW and parked on grass like at AirVenture where I have to boondock) made with a Radio Shack dB Meter with A weighting and fast response on a 4' tripod at 7 meters. "Loaded" is with 15K BTU A/C running, "Left, right, and center" are from the perspective of standing behind the FW facing the genset:

Left: No shroud, unloaded 66, loaded 66
Shrouded, unloaded 62, loaded 63

Right: No shroud, unloaded 64, loaded 65
Shrouded, unloaded 61, loaded 63

Center: No shroud, unloaded 64, loaded 66
Shrouded, unloaded 65, loaded 67

I got some nice reductions left and right (if the meter flickered back and forth, I chose the higher number to report)- the right side is probably more important since that's the side the awning, grill, etc., are on and if you are outside the FW where you are likely to be.

It was curious that the center readings were slightly higher. Of course that's the open location (no panel) on the shroud. Perhaps it is "focusing the sound"? Also, a slight breeze picked up during this measuring, so perhaps that altered things. I also wonder if further reduction would result from lining the roof/lid of the shroud, and also if it might be beneficial to make additional panels that would fold down from the side panels to get the sides closer to the ground?

Inside the 30' FW, seated at the dinette about midway in the super slide (slide open and two chairs in back of FW), the db reading with no A/C running was 51 - shroud or no shroud. With the A/C running and the fan on "HI", it was 56 with the shroud and 57 without.

I realize that I was measuring the A/C's noise as well as the genset's - I could have used a silent load like a heater. However, like I said, this is a "real world" test in that these sounds are what you'll normally hear (most of the time that I'll use the genset will be to run the A/C). I might repeat the tests later with a silent load just for kicks. I'll tweak this later - probably add sound absorptive lining to the shroud's lid and consider the fold-down side panels. It was a fairly inexpensive project - I had all the materials on-hand except for the Coroplast (I like it because it is fairly rigid but extremely light and has the dead air spaces). I think those poly pans are about $15-$20 each, but I happened to have those already. If I hadn't I might have used waterproof hardboard from Lowe's at about $12/sheet.

Regards,
John
John & Linda
2005 Pilgrim 274RL-5SS
2008 F-250
Amelia - the Welsh Terrier. Daisy, Bonny, & Rosie - the cats!

Max49
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks Steve, I tried to call but they are closed now. I was going to ask if they are pretty much 'industry standard' or if I need a particular one for "Carrier ACs"

I'll try to find that article on 'Mod my RV' Gramps
Max05 Damon Daybreak, 35' WHParker, Colorado