charger side of Magnatek 7300

[azbohunter]

I have a suspicion that my charger is not putting out DC to recharge batteries in my rig. I have lights and 12 volt to accessories in trailer but batteries are dead. I am not sure how to test it even after reading several articles and watching YouTube videos. If the battery is not hooked up I get nothing coming out of the dc side of charger, I have 110 going in at the lugs on the charger, the fuses for reverse polarity and charger are both good. Is there a way with a multi tool to test output on the charger side?
Thinking about just replacing it with a Progressive Dynamics 4655 and being done with it.

[azbohunter]

Just a follow up and thanks for help and suggestions. Installed the Progressive Dynamics 4600 this morning. Pretty easy install really and all seems to be working as advertised. Glad to have the situation resolved and looking forward to stronger batteries and longer battery life.

[azbohunter]

CharlesinGA wrote:
The batteries will last much longer on the Progressive converter, as it does not cook them. I have installed two in Magnatek/Parallax panels, very easy job. On my Winnebago motorhome, the converter and fridge 120v were on the same breaker so I wirenutted both wires to a short pigtail into the breaker (originally they were both in one wire thimble). The Bigfoot trailer had the converter on its own breaker. By all means install the DC fuse panel, It requires a little wire bending and routing changes as the lugs are in slightly different locations, but you get led warning lights for each fuse to show they are blown and you get a button to control the charge wizard in the converter, plus and LED to show converter status.

USE A 3/8 wrench to hold the square terminal blocks while you tighten the screws so you don't twist the terminals off the printed circuit board.

Charles

Some great information, thank you.

[CharlesinGA]

The batteries will last much longer on the Progressive converter, as it does not cook them. I have installed two in Magnatek/Parallax panels, very easy job. On my Winnebago motorhome, the converter and fridge 120v were on the same breaker so I wirenutted both wires to a short pigtail into the breaker (originally they were both in one wire thimble). The Bigfoot trailer had the converter on its own breaker. By all means install the DC fuse panel, It requires a little wire bending and routing changes as the lugs are in slightly different locations, but you get led warning lights for each fuse to show they are blown and you get a button to control the charge wizard in the converter, plus and LED to show converter status.

USE A 3/8 wrench to hold the square terminal blocks while you tighten the screws so you don't twist the terminals off the printed circuit board.

Charles

[Weldon]

are the 2,30 amp fuses at the top good?

[azbohunter]

Picture of overheated PC board
Because I am that kind of guy, I had to see what I could see. There is a slow blow fuse on the PC board but it tested good but I found this area of PC board had really overheated. New Progressive Dynamics 4600 on the way!

[azbohunter]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xJKBP2iccY4JpPvx8
I have 110 at the black/white wire in lower right, nothing out. No glass fuse, checked other fuse. If I have 11o at the charger and nothing coming out I think it is done.

BFL13 wrote:
ISTR there is a 120v glass fuse on the circuit board to check too.

Check the blue wire and use the metal casing as neg to see if there is any 12v output. if the issue is in the DC panel, that will by-pass the panel for your output check.

You have to be sure the two RP fuses are both good and in tight, before giving up. Replace both and then see.

[BFL13]

ISTR there is a 120v glass fuse on the circuit board to check too.

Check the blue wire and use the metal casing as neg to see if there is any 12v output. if the issue is in the DC panel, that will by-pass the panel for your output check.

You have to be sure the two RP fuses are both good and in tight, before giving up. Replace both and then see.

[azbohunter]

time2roll wrote:

azbohunter wrote:
I have a suspicion that my charger is not putting out DC to recharge batteries in my rig. I have lights and 12 volt to accessories in trailer but batteries are dead. I am not sure how to test it even after reading several articles and watching YouTube videos. If the battery is not hooked up I get nothing coming out of the dc side of charger, I have 110 going in at the lugs on the charger, the fuses for reverse polarity and charger are both good. Is there a way with a multi tool to test output on the charger side?
Thinking about just replacing it with a Progressive Dynamics 4655 and being done with it.

120vac power in, check. 13.6vdc out, nope. That is the test and the converter is shot.
Yes the 4655 goes in and all is better than ever.

Thank you, 4655 ordered. Looks like easy enough replacement.

[azbohunter]

BFL13 wrote:
110v does not go to any "lugs". Your 110v has a black and white wire. black goes to the bottom of one of the circuit breakers and the white goes to the neutral buss. Make sure that circuit breaker has not popped.

You should see 13.8ish at the lugs on the DC panel across the blue pos and white neg output wires from the converter. Battery connected or not.

Your 11.6 is battery voltage to the DC panel and you have no output from the converter, so if the RP fuses are ok that means no 110v in. check that circuit breaker

at the bottom right front, a black and white wires carrying 110 to the charger, I have 110 at that point. The charger is not warm and the fan does not run so I am expecting it is done.

[time2roll]

azbohunter wrote:
I have a suspicion that my charger is not putting out DC to recharge batteries in my rig. I have lights and 12 volt to accessories in trailer but batteries are dead. I am not sure how to test it even after reading several articles and watching YouTube videos. If the battery is not hooked up I get nothing coming out of the dc side of charger, I have 110 going in at the lugs on the charger, the fuses for reverse polarity and charger are both good. Is there a way with a multi tool to test output on the charger side?
Thinking about just replacing it with a Progressive Dynamics 4655 and being done with it.

120vac power in, check. 13.6vdc out, nope. That is the test and the converter is shot.
Yes the 4655 goes in and all is better than ever.

[BFL13]

110v does not go to any "lugs". Your 110v has a black and white wire. black goes to the bottom of one of the circuit breakers and the white goes to the neutral buss. Make sure that circuit breaker has not popped.

You should see 13.8ish at the lugs on the DC panel across the blue pos and white neg output wires from the converter. Battery connected or not.

Your 11.6 is battery voltage to the DC panel and you have no output from the converter, so if the RP fuses are ok that means no 110v in. check that circuit breaker

[azbohunter]

and if I do that should I be getting around 13.5 to 14 volts on the output side?
my batteries test at 11.6 volts (2 6 volt) and volt meter show 11.6 at terminals coming out charger.

[2oldman]

Hook an uncharged battery to it and take a voltage reading.