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clicking - water heater

riltri
Explorer
Explorer
When I turn on our Atwood water heater to electric, the converter clicks about every 3 seconds as if it is turning on/off. The w/h is definitely 110v and the breaker is not tripped and we are plugged into 50amp power. This is the only time that the converter makes this noise. Any ideas?
Blue Ridge Mtns - NC
23 REPLIES 23

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
You rarely go wrong following Doug's advice.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

riltri
Explorer
Explorer
UPDATE This morning no more clicking and no power to the yellow wire. I followed Doug's advise and hot wired the yellow wire. Left the control switch OFF (felt that this bypassed it). I heard a faint click when I attached the NEG.

20 minutes later and the water is warm.....No cold shower tonight!!!

Thanks again for the help!
Blue Ridge Mtns - NC

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
I would state as earlier, the CIRCUIT Board is defective. A bad 120 relay would not cause a 5 to 12 volt back and forth. What I would do, to NOT have to access the back of the WH, is install 12 volts to the Yellow wire at the circuit board area, feeding the relay not TO the circuit board(Cut the yellow wire) and see if the click goes away. If it DOES---bad circuit Board. If it does NOT, bad relay. VERY uncommon problem. I have NEVER seen this in 20 years of this model circuit board system. Doug

Old-Biscuit
Explorer II
Explorer II
riltri wrote:
dougrainer wrote:
Old-Biscuit wrote:
If 2004 or newer model that clicking is the DC Relay that closes to allow AC to the element
It is failing
DC Relay and element are inside that protective cover on backside of WH Tank

Never heard any of my RV water heater electric elements click or any clicking from an electric residential WH
Heard them 'buzz' from scale/calcium build up but no CLICKING


He has a 2015 model. The relay may indeed be bad. BUT, a way to test is to install a AC amp meter on the circuit and see if you have loss of amp draw during the clicking. AND, IF the clicking is at the BACK of the WH, then the relay would be suspect. IF at the front, then no. BUT, I would also test the YELLOW wire at the Circuit Board for intermittant 12 volts. That is the activation wire for the Relay. IF the yellow has on and off 12 volts, the circuit board is BAD. Doug


Click is definitely coming from the back not the front. Sounds to be coming from the metal box.

Yellow wire spikes between 5.x and 12.x with each click. NEG to drain plug if that makes any difference.

Will have to take garage apart again to test the AC in the back and we are pulling out shortly. Will test tomorrow when we get to the next CG.

Thanks for the help!!!


Yellow wire is the DC from circuit board to the DC Relay
It should be constant voltage ...not fluctuating
As I stated earlier....the DC Relay is failing

Bigger issue is ACCESS
Don't forget that under that cover is DC and AC Voltages
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

riltri
Explorer
Explorer
dougrainer wrote:
Old-Biscuit wrote:
If 2004 or newer model that clicking is the DC Relay that closes to allow AC to the element
It is failing
DC Relay and element are inside that protective cover on backside of WH Tank

Never heard any of my RV water heater electric elements click or any clicking from an electric residential WH
Heard them 'buzz' from scale/calcium build up but no CLICKING


He has a 2015 model. The relay may indeed be bad. BUT, a way to test is to install a AC amp meter on the circuit and see if you have loss of amp draw during the clicking. AND, IF the clicking is at the BACK of the WH, then the relay would be suspect. IF at the front, then no. BUT, I would also test the YELLOW wire at the Circuit Board for intermittant 12 volts. That is the activation wire for the Relay. IF the yellow has on and off 12 volts, the circuit board is BAD. Doug


Click is definitely coming from the back not the front. Sounds to be coming from the metal box.

Yellow wire spikes between 5.x and 12.x with each click. NEG to drain plug if that makes any difference.

Will have to take garage apart again to test the AC in the back and we are pulling out shortly. Will test tomorrow when we get to the next CG.

Thanks for the help!!!
Blue Ridge Mtns - NC

riltri
Explorer
Explorer
delete delete
Blue Ridge Mtns - NC

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Old-Biscuit wrote:
If 2004 or newer model that clicking is the DC Relay that closes to allow AC to the element
It is failing
DC Relay and element are inside that protective cover on backside of WH Tank

Never heard any of my RV water heater electric elements click or any clicking from an electric residential WH
Heard them 'buzz' from scale/calcium build up but no CLICKING


He has a 2015 model. The relay may indeed be bad. BUT, a way to test is to install a AC amp meter on the circuit and see if you have loss of amp draw during the clicking. AND, IF the clicking is at the BACK of the WH, then the relay would be suspect. IF at the front, then no. BUT, I would also test the YELLOW wire at the Circuit Board for intermittant 12 volts. That is the activation wire for the Relay. IF the yellow has on and off 12 volts, the circuit board is BAD. Doug

riltri
Explorer
Explorer
Old-Biscuit wrote:
If 2004 or newer model that clicking is the DC Relay that closes to allow AC to the element
It is failing
DC Relay and element are inside that protective cover on backside of WH Tank

Never heard any of my RV water heater electric elements click or any clicking from an electric residential WH
Heard them 'buzz' from scale/calcium build up but no CLICKING


That makes perfect sense as it sounds like a relay switch opening/closing. Only $10 on Amazon. Certainly worth a try, Thanks!
Blue Ridge Mtns - NC

Old-Biscuit
Explorer II
Explorer II
If 2004 or newer model that clicking is the DC Relay that closes to allow AC to the element
It is failing
DC Relay and element are inside that protective cover on backside of WH Tank

Never heard any of my RV water heater electric elements click or any clicking from an electric residential WH
Heard them 'buzz' from scale/calcium build up but no CLICKING
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

riltri
Explorer
Explorer
dougrainer wrote:
That is why I asked how close to the WH the Converter is. Atwood Water Heaters will buzz/click in normal operation. On LP you cannot hear this due to the flame. On 120, you hear this because 120 is silent. It is NORMAL. Doug


Doug,

This is a constant click that sounds like a circuit rapidly cutting in & out until the water reaches temperature. So this is normal? Any idea what causes it?
Blue Ridge Mtns - NC

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
dougrainer wrote:
Atwood Water Heaters will buzz/click in normal operation. Doug

I'm glad you posted this. I owned a MH for 10 years with an Atwood and never heard the water heater buzz, but when I bought my TT, I have occasionally heard it buzz when heating. I have been worried about it, but couldn't find anything to explain it.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
That is why I asked how close to the WH the Converter is. Atwood Water Heaters will buzz/click in normal operation. On LP you cannot hear this due to the flame. On 120, you hear this because 120 is silent. It is NORMAL. Doug

riltri
Explorer
Explorer
I've tried it with the house battery both ON and OFF...same result.
Not the ignitor, this is electric only. But that is another issue. The ignitor does not cycle when on gas (yes the gas is ON and the cooktop works.
It is a click, not an arc. Sounds come from control box on the back which I can not get to without removing the entire w/h.
Blue Ridge Mtns - NC

AllegroD
Nomad
Nomad
What is the state of your house batteries? If your WH turns off when the converter is off, it may be because it is not getting enough power from 12v system.