Dometic Refer Recall - Possible Fire Hazard -Update 2/13/07

[MELM]

Click here to go directly to Updates.
Update Number 1 Nov 23, 2006
Update Number 2 Dec 5, 2006
Update Number 3 Jan 10, 2007
Update Number 4 Jan 19, 2007 - Recall Instructions - click here: Dometic Recall You need your model and serial numbers.
Update Number 5 Feb 13, 2007 - Added links to new info on the NHTSA website including the info/form for claiming reimbursement for a failure. These are at the end of the post below where all the updates are posted.

Also, edited the below Recall to include the change made prior to the Dec 5 update showing the proposed remedy.

Below is information from the NHTSA website on a recall of certain Dometic refrigerators. This recall is in its very early stages, and there is no resolution in place as of Nov 1, 2006.

From the NHTSA website:

Dometic Recall NHTSA Campaign ID 06E076000

Make / Models : Model/Build Years:
DOMETIC / NDR1062 9999
DOMETIC / RM2652 9999
DOMETIC / RM2662 9999
DOMETIC / RM2663 9999
DOMETIC / RM2852 9999
DOMETIC / RM2862 9999
DOMETIC / RM3662 9999
DOMETIC / RM3663 9999
DOMETIC / RM3862 9999
DOMETIC / RM3863 9999

Manufacturer : DOMETIC CORPORATION

NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 06E076000 Mfg's Report Date : AUG 28, 2006

Component: EQUIPMENT: RECREATIONAL VEHICLE

Potential Number Of Units Affected : 926877

Summary:
CERTAIN DOMETIC TWO-DOOR REFRIGERATORS MANUFACTURED BETWEEN APRIL 1997 AND MAY 2003: SERIAL NOS.
713XXXXX THROUGH 752XXXXX;
801XXXXX THROUGH 852XXXXX;
901XXXXX THROUGH 952XXXXX;
001XXXXX THROUGH 052XXXXX;
101XXXXX THROUGH 152XXXXX;
201XXXXX THROUGH 252XXXXX;
301XXXXX THROUGH 319XXXXX,
INSTALLED IN CERTAIN RECREATIONAL VEHICLES AS ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT AND SOLD AS AFTERMARKET EQUIPMENT. A FATIGUE CRACK MAY DEVELOP IN THE BOILER TUBE WHICH MAY RELEASE A SUFFICIENT AMOUNT OF PRESSURIZED COOLANT SOLUTION INTO AN AREA WHERE AN IGNITION SOURCE (GAS FLAME) IS PRESENT.

Consequence:
THE RELEASE OF COOLANT UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS COULD IGNITE AND RESULT IN A FIRE.

Remedy:
THE VEHICLE MANUFACTURERS WILL NOTIFY OWNERS OF RECREATIONAL VEHICLES THAT HAD THE REFRIGERATORS INSTALLED AS ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT AND DOMETIC WILL NOTIFY OWNERS OF THE AFTERMARKET REFRIGERATORS. DOMETIC WILL INSTALL A SECONDARY BURNER HOUSING FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN BETWEEN APRIL AND JUNE 2007. OWNERS MAY CONTACT DOMETIC AT 888-446-5157.

Notes:
CUSTOMERS MAY CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY: 1-800-424-9153); OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.

The following is extracted from the notice provided by Dometic to the NHTSA dated 8/26/06:

The potential defect is associated with cooling unit at the back of the refrigeration cabinet.

A fractional percentage of the potentially affected refrigerators have experienced a fatigue crack that may develop in the boiler tube in the area of the weld between the boiler tube and the heater pocket. A fatigue crack may release a sufficient amount of pressurized coolant solution into an area where an ignition source (gas flame) is present. Dometic's investigation has shown that a simulated release of cooling solution (refrigerant) in the area of the boiler, under certain conditions, could be ignited by the presence of an open flame. A boiler fatigue crack with the loss of cooling solution without ignition would result in a non-operational refrigerator that is not a safety issue. Under certain conditions, the released coolant could ignite and result in a fire. In order to have a fire, at a minimum, all of the following conditions must exist:

1. The refrigerator must be on and normally operating and gas burner must be lit;
2. 'There must be an oversized heating element in the refrigerator;
3. The boiler tube must develop a throughway fatigue crack of a
specific size;
4. There must be a release of the cooling solution at a rate which will
allow the accumulation of the cooling solution at a concentration within its range of flammability; and
5. There must be ignition source (gas flame) present.

If any of these conditions are not present, a release of the cooling solution will not result in a fire.

In April of 1997 Dometic modified the design of the affected refrigerators by increasing the wattage of the heating element from 325 watts to 354 watts. All production of the affected units from April 1997 through May of 2003 utilized the 354 watt heating element. In May of 2003, in order to improve the operating life of the refrigerators, Dometic returned to the use of the 325 watt heating element which it continues to use today. It is now believed that the use of the higher wattage heater contributed to abnormal fatigue in the boiler tube.

The products in question are all refrigerators used in the original manufacture of recreation vehicles or as replacement equipment for recreation vehicles. The total population of refrigerators potentially containing the defect is 926,877. Dometic estimates a potential maximum incident rate of 0.01% related to boiler fatigue cracks that leak and may result in a fire. There have been no incidents of injury or death related to the affected population of Dometic refrigerators.

Dometic became aware of the occurrence of fires which may have involved their products and retained an independent engineering testing laboratory to fully evaluate and investigate any potential defect in their refrigerators which might result in a fire. A number of returned units were analyzed and microscopic fatigue cracks which could release coolant into the area of the burner were identified in the boiler tube metal in the area of the weld between the heater pocket and boiler tube. Tests simulating the cracks were conducted the week of August 18, 2006 and confirmed a possible cause of fire in the refrigerators under certain conditions. These test results prompted the preparation of this notice.

Dometic continues to gather information on the potential defect and will forward additional relevant information as it becomes available.

Dometic has not yet identified a proposed remedy for the potential defect. Dometic will continue a testing program designed to identify and evaluate possible remedies. This evaluation will take place both in the United States and in Sweden. Once a remedy has been identified, Dometic will initiate or participate in a remedy campaign initiated by the original equipment manufacturers and aftermarket suppliers who have purchased, sold, and distributed these products. A list of original equipment manufacturers and aftermarket suppliers to whom Dometic has sold the potentially defective refrigerators is being prepared and will be provided to the NHTSA upon its
completion.

The following is extracted from the NHTSA response on 9/18/06:

Please provide the following additional information and be reminded of the following requirements:

Dometic must provide an estimated dealer notification date as well as an owner notification date including the day, month, and year. You are required to submit a draft owner notification letter to this office no less than five days prior to mailing it to the customers. Also, copies of all notices, bulletins, dealer notifications, and other communications that relate to this recall, including a copy of the final owner notification letter and any subsequent owner follow-up notification letter(s), are required to be submitted to this office no later than 5 days after they are originally sent (if they are sent to more than one manufacturer, distributor, dealer, or purchaser/owner).

Dometic must file a sample of the envelope which you intend to use to mail the recall notice to owners. The words "SAFETY", "RECALL", "NOTICE" in any order must be printed on the envelope in larger font than the customers name and address.

[ausdoug]

I had the recall kit installed about 2 months ago and everything worked fine during a week long trip around July 4th. If I was on a trip and the refrig quit working and I suspected the thermal fuses, couldn't I just pull the red wires off of the circuit board? Haven't looked that closely at the installation but was just wondering.

[kerryedwards]

Picked up a couple of thermal fuses at a Radio Shack store yesterday. The fuses have a coned end and a flat end. The packaging says the flat end is the sensitive fused end and to locate the fuse with this in mind. The closer the flat end is to the heat source, the quicker the fuse will activate. If the Dometic fuse is similar, this is worth knowing when placing the fuse in its holding bracket.

[Community Alumni]

timsrv wrote:

The most recent element (post recall) is part number 3850644422. With all that has been going on, I would demand that one. Since that's the one they recommend now, I'd go with this latest version. Tim

That's the only p/n (3850644422) that my local rv repair shop can get also. Last spring Claude B ordered one and it actually tested too high also; Dometic claims there is no 325W/355W option, there is simply the one stamped 325w. You really don't know what you will actually get or have until you test it.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/18592867/gotomsg/19525149.cfm#19525149

... Eric

[timsrv]

silverado04 wrote:
Hello
Please help me out on the element/s being used.. I have seen 2 different part numbers in the thread then what I got for a replacement from a local rv dealer..
The one they gave me is #1737421880 this is the number stamped on the element itself.
My unit stopped working and I found it to be the heating element pulled it out same number as above, called local dealer and they sold me one with the same number..

what should I be using in a rm2652?

In the past, Dometic has used several different part numbers for that refer element. The one you mention doesn't show up in my latest parts list, so your dealer must have been stocking that one for a while. I'm not sure how much it matters, but Dometic has continued changing part numbers for a reason (who knows what that reason is). The most recent element (post recall) is part number 3850644422. With all that has been going on, I would demand that one. Since that's the one they recommend now, I'd go with this latest version. Tim

[Phils]

wwest wrote:
Instead of taking it in for the recall work I turned the propane off at the inlet valve provided and wired a (~$80) 800 watt MSW inverter into the 125 VAC circuit so the Dometic always has AC.

Probably wouldn't work if the frig door is being cycled too often but with only DW and myself....

Also I guess you already realize from this thread that it's the AC operation that "flexes" the weld and causes the failure and leak.

I've just stopped using AC to power the fridge. From what I've learned, cooling system failures (where the ammonia gets out) have been mostly caused by operation on AC (although I'm sure Dometic wouldn't admit it). It costs me a little more to run on propane but I'm willing to pay that rather than buy a new fridge.

Phil

[Chris_Bryant]

wwest wrote:
Instead of taking it in for the recall work I turned the propane off at the inlet valve provided and wired a (~$80) 800 watt MSW inverter into the 125 VAC circuit so the Dometic always has AC.

Probably wouldn't work if the frig door is being cycled too often but with only DW and myself....

Be aware that this doesn't eliminate the fire threat- if the unit leaks, it can still overheat and catch surrounding materials on fire (Tim has some pics in this thread from one that overheated). That's why the recall includes 2 thermal fuses- one for fire, one for overheating.

[wwest]

Instead of taking it in for the recall work I turned the propane off at the inlet valve provided and wired a (~$80) 800 watt MSW inverter into the 125 VAC circuit so the Dometic always has AC.

Probably wouldn't work if the frig door is being cycled too often but with only DW and myself....

[jdarstpt40]

Has anyone here experienced a burner tube crack in a Dometic model # RM2820(thats a CLASSIC model)?

Please e-mail me off forum at jdarst@hprcars.com if you have experienced a burner tube crack in a Dometic RM2820 in the last 2 years.

Thanks
Jay Darst
1985 Bluebird Wanderlodge PT40
1996 Prevost Country Coach 45XL
Central, IL

[silverado04]

Hello
Please help me out on the element/s being used.. I have seen 2 different part numbers in the thread then what I got for a replacement from a local rv dealer..
The one they gave me is #1737421880 this is the number stamped on the element itself.
My unit stopped working and I found it to be the heating element pulled it out same number as above, called local dealer and they sold me one with the same number..

what should I be using in a rm2652?

[kerryedwards]

I ordered a few of the Radio Shack thermal fuses on-line. I'll experiment with them once I get them and report back.

[charlan]

timsrv wrote:
Make sure it's plugged in and it's 120v outlet has power going to it. There are also a couple of fuses under the circuit board cover. If the 120v fuse is blown, or the outlet is dead, the refer will act exactly as you describe. If all these things check out, then it's most likely a faulty circuit board. Tim

The boogers forgot to plug it in when they did the recall, oh well we cant all be perfect, especially RV tech's. :S After all they only get 40 minutes to do the recall and not plugging it back in saves some time.:B

[kerryedwards]

Radio Shack has thermal fuses that look very much like the ones Dometic is retrofitting. There's a maximum voltage listed (240v) so I don't know if they will work on 12 volts but at $1.50 a few simple experiments with a 12 volt source, a fuse and a match or lighter should confirm whether or not they will replace the Dometic original. It looks like they have at least two different temperature fuses available.

http://www.radioshack.com/sm-ceramic-and-thermal-fuses--fi-2032300_cp-2032058.2032234.html

[timsrv]

He's trying to run the refer on 120vac. When on auto, a properly working refer will run on 120vac (if it's available). As long as AC voltage is present, gas doesn't need to be on.........unless there is a problem. Tim

[trouble1263]

I'm no expert but, if my propane bottles are off and the fridge is in auto, I get a check light also. Turn on the propane and purge your gas system and your burner should ignite..

[timsrv]

Make sure it's plugged in and it's 120v outlet has power going to it. There are also a couple of fuses under the circuit board cover. If the 120v fuse is blown, or the outlet is dead, the refer will act exactly as you describe. If all these things check out, then it's most likely a faulty circuit board. Tim