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Electric Outlets

Kountryguy
Explorer
Explorer
Looking for suggestions for the easiest way to upgrade the receptacles in my trailer.
15 REPLIES 15

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
This is what I use. They have clamps

https://www.leviton.com/en/products/5252-w

Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
Blacklane wrote:
I have never seen a breaker that used screw terminals. They all have clamps where you push the wire straight in the side and screw a clamp down on top of it.


You're right - my mistake.
But it still isn't an issue.

Blacklane
Explorer
Explorer
I have never seen a breaker that used screw terminals. They all have clamps where you push the wire straight in the side and screw a clamp down on top of it.

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
I've run 1500 watt space heaters off those outlets for 15+ years without any problems at all. I suspect the ones that overheat weren't connected properly.
As far as using outlets with screw terminals, if that were an issue, we'd be having broken wires at the breakers since they connect the same way. (I do prefer installing the clamp type outlets though)

RLS7201
Explorer
Explorer
Blacklane wrote:
The devices that have the wire wrap around a screw are not appropriate for the vibration environment in an RV. You need to choose ones with screw clamps, often labeled as "commercial". Even back-stab connections are more reliable than wrapped screws in an RV.

People often say that RV self-contained devices are junk, but the ones by the major suppliers are approved by UL and CL and are perfectly safe. They are specified in the National Electric Code (NEC). They do have to be installed correctly using a special tool.

People used to say that crimp connections were junk, however that is the only kind of connection you will find in a modern automobile because they are the most reliable.


Exactly!
The RV receptacles are good if installed correctly.
Screw downs get loose shaking down the road.
Look at how many problems have ben posted about circuit breaker panels.
The OEM receptacles in my 95 Bounder are still good.
They get used for 1500 watt heaters with no problem.

Richard
95 Bounder 32H F53 460
2013 CRV Toad
2 Segways in Toad
First brake job
1941 Hudson

Blacklane
Explorer
Explorer
The devices that have the wire wrap around a screw are not appropriate for the vibration environment in an RV. You need to choose ones with screw clamps, often labeled as "commercial". Even back-stab connections are more reliable than wrapped screws in an RV.

People often say that RV self-contained devices are junk, but the ones by the major suppliers are approved by UL and CSA and are perfectly safe. They are specified in the National Electric Code (NEC). They do have to be installed correctly using a special tool.

People used to say that crimp connections were junk, however that is the only kind of connection you will find in a modern automobile because they are the most reliable.

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Kountryguy wrote:
Yes ScottG. The one on my dryer connection broke. Pianotuna, what did you replace yours with?


Standard residential screw terminal type.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Kountryguy
Explorer
Explorer
Yes ScottG. The one on my dryer connection broke. Pianotuna, what did you replace yours with?

Tvov
Explorer
Explorer
Just poking my nose in here to find out about upgrading outlets.
_________________________________________________________
2021 F150 2.7
2004 21' Forest River Surveyor

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
Have you had problems with yours Countryguy?

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi,

The oem stab connectors are pretty much frowned on for use with heavy loads. One of the first things I did was to replace all but 2 of the outlets.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
I wondered also. :@ I wanted to say easy to change colors but...:B
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

LouLawrence
Explorer
Explorer
Upgrade to what?