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Need fridge help

Apstang50
Explorer
Explorer
Hello new member looking for some help. I have a 1999 lance 1120 truck camper with a Dometic RM3663 3 way fridge. The fridge worked fine at the end of last season. When I opened the camper for the season I couldnโ€™t get it to light on propane. The camper is plugged into shore power and the battery is fully charged, and propane tanks are full. I can run the stove and furnace with no issues. I can also light the fridge manually with a lighter and it will stay lit and run. I bought a new dinosaur P-711 control board and new igniter lead. The reignitor canโ€™t be bought new. My local RV shop gave me a good used reignitor to try and didnโ€™t work. All connections or clean/tied. I cleaned all ground points. I have power at all points that should have power. The burner tube is clean, as I said I can light the fridge manually. When I turn the fridge to propane I can hear the gas valve open, then after 30 seconds or so it closes and I get the check light and it will switch the shore power. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
3 REPLIES 3

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
One of the most common issues I've seen with DSI systems is spark gap.. Being an old farm boy and having worked on many ICE engines I know a bit about spark gaps.

If it's too big.. NO SPARK.. So. read the fine manual and break out the ruler.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
https://youngfartsrvparts.com/search?q=2932781012&shpxid=1957308f-c094-4ec9-bb82-8d7912764344

This is the electrode and it does NOT have the removable wire. Doug

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
I will state that reignitor or the electrode is bad, that is why it was a used part. What the sequence is, you turn on LP at the switch. The control board sends a 12 volt signal to the reignitor, THAT triggers the gas valve to open AND the spark electrode to SPARK. If the spark electrode does NOT spark it shuts down the LP side and you get the check light. As you have found out throwing expensive parts is not the way to go. Go to the spark electrode at the burner. There are 2 types. ONE older style the spark plug wire can be disconnected from the Porcelain clad electrode. This will have a small spade terminal on it. The other type, the wire goes IN
to the Porcelain white part of the electrode and is not removable. IF you have the removable, Disconnect from the electrode, SHUT OFF THE LP GAS!!!!!!!, then start a LP lighting sequence use a screwdriver and see if that electrode wire sparks to the screwdriver, hole the screwdriver about 1/2 inch from the end of the electrode metal spade end. IF it sparks, your Electrode at the burner is bad, replace it. IF your electrode wire cannot disconnect, follow it back to the reignitor. Disconnect the electrode wire from the reignitor and use a small short wire bare on both ends and do the screwdriver test. IF NO SPARK at the reignitor the reignitor is bad. IF it sparks, you replace the Electrode which will come with a new wire. Doug