Replace Norcold N611RT with residential - models?

[phemens]

Looking to replace our Norcold N611RT propane fridge with a residential model. According to what I've found, rough opening dimensions are 52 7/8 in. (H) x 23 1/2 in. (W) x 24 in (D). Has anyone done it for this model and any suggestions for replacement model?
I've found a couple, but the depth seems to be ~ 4 inches deeper (height is not a problem, I can cut in above & below if needed).

[phemens]

So, I got into the 'doing' part today and removed the Norcold N611RT. Went very smoothly, no issues at all. Measured my entry door and was very pleasantly surprised to see that I have 28" of clearance on width without removing the door frame, so it looks like the Norcold and the new fridge will go through no problem. That was my biggest concern, I guess I should have measured the entry door first, would have avoided a lot of 'thinking'.
Now that the fridge is out, true measurements are 23 1/2" width on trim, 24 1/2" inside width, 60" height (removing spacer panel above old fridge) and 24 1/5 depth - this means the new fridge will stick out by about 4". Not a bad compromise to double fridge capacity!

[phemens]

Yes, absolutely. I'm a plan first, plan again then 'do' kind of guy...
Another option is that I need to take the trailer in for servicing on that slide (it's sticking), so I could possibly arrange to have them swapped when the slide is off, then install the new unit properly later.

[BFL13]

"I have a very large window opposite the fridge in the slide, plan would be to remove it to do the swap (I have to reseal all the windows at some point anyway, so a good excuse) "

Might need a forklift that goes up high to do that. Picturing the guy outside standing on a chair holding his end of the fridge ending up in hospital after the whole fridge lands on him when the chair tips over or somesuch. 🙂

You do need a plan for handling the moment the guy inside can't hold his end anymore, and then getting the fridge down to ground level all under control.

[phemens]

wires wrote:
Not a N611, but I did a conversion last year on my N811 which is the same width and depth as the 611.

I went with a Whirlpool URB551WNGZ. I chose this unit because of its dimensions, low amp draw, and the fact that it had condenser coils on the back instead of coils and an fan on the bottom.

It fit in the existing opening width and depth. I removed a drawer below my old N811 to obtain the extra height and to allow the fridge to sit directly on the floor. The cabinet is flush with the old fridge cutout but the doors stick out an extra 2".

When I tore everything apart I had a few "what have I done" moments, but after everything was completed I don't think anyone would notice that it wasn't a factory install.

Looks great! Thanks for the info, very reassuring.

[phemens]

BFL13 wrote:
Recently installed a second hand Norcold 6xx to replace the 1991 OEM Dometic that rusted out. Can't answer your question, but note the size of your RV doorway too. You can't necessarily put the fridge through by its narrowest aspect. Fridge door is one "issue".

I had to take the whole RV door, frame and all, out of the RV to get the fridges out and in, and it was very tight at that. Once in, it was another struggle to get the fridge in place. Took all day with son's help.

You have to figure it all out before getting the one out through the RV door, which way it should be oriented, and then the new one in so it can be put into its slot. One of those IQ tests you don't want to fail 😞

I have a very large window opposite the fridge in the slide, plan would be to remove it to do the swap (I have to reseal all the windows at some point anyway, so a good excuse)

[midnightsadie]

looks great always sit back and plan your attack.

[wires]

Not a N611, but I did a conversion last year on my N811 which is the same width and depth as the 611.

I went with a Whirlpool URB551WNGZ. I chose this unit because of its dimensions, low amp draw, and the fact that it had condenser coils on the back instead of coils and an fan on the bottom.

It fit in the existing opening width and depth. I removed a drawer below my old N811 to obtain the extra height and to allow the fridge to sit directly on the floor. The cabinet is flush with the old fridge cutout but the doors stick out an extra 2".

When I tore everything apart I had a few "what have I done" moments, but after everything was completed I don't think anyone would notice that it wasn't a factory install.

[BFL13]

Recently installed a second hand Norcold 6xx to replace the 1991 OEM Dometic that rusted out. Can't answer your question, but note the size of your RV doorway too. You can't necessarily put the fridge through by its narrowest aspect. Fridge door is one "issue".

I had to take the whole RV door, frame and all, out of the RV to get the fridges out and in, and it was very tight at that. Once in, it was another struggle to get the fridge in place. Took all day with son's help.

You have to figure it all out before getting the one out through the RV door, which way it should be oriented, and then the new one in so it can be put into its slot. One of those IQ tests you don't want to fail 😞