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Water proof sealant

esox07
Explorer
Explorer
I finally found the source of a leak we have been experiencing. There is rain entering a window from somewhere along the top and it comes in and drains out the bottom and onto the counter. I know it is coming in the top of the window seam because I put a dry rag along the top edge one day while it was raining out and leaking inside. That stopped the leak.

So, I know where to apply the sealant, but I am unsure of what brand or type of sealant I should use on it. I thought a regular silicone sealant would work, but thought that maybe there is a product specifically made for TT's and MH's.

If any one has any advice or suggestions, I am anxious to hear them.
Thanks.
Minnesota Viking fan trapped in Wisconsin
2011 KZ Sportsmen Classic 19BH
2013 Chevy Silverado 1500, Ext Cab, 5.3L Z71, 4x4
Boliy 3600si
AAA Plus RV
17 REPLIES 17

esox07
Explorer
Explorer
That is exactly what I plan to do. I have a roll of Butyl tape on the way from Amazon and I already have two tubes of ProFlex.

I thought that butyl tape was a common item. I could not find it at either Home Depot or Menards. Menards had some but it was not nearly the size I needed. Is it only available at RV dealers? I thought it was a fairly commonly used product that would be available at most home stores.
Minnesota Viking fan trapped in Wisconsin
2011 KZ Sportsmen Classic 19BH
2013 Chevy Silverado 1500, Ext Cab, 5.3L Z71, 4x4
Boliy 3600si
AAA Plus RV

ktmrfs
Explorer
Explorer
donn0128 wrote:
If this is a clamp of flush window? The butyl seal on clamp windows csn fail. Before wasting time slathering sealant all over the window, take it out, clean everything throroughly, go buy a roll of butyl putty tape. Apply all around the window, reinstal. Clean excess squeeze out, now, apply a small bead of Dicor around the top and sides of the window. Now you have a professional, permanent fix.


exactly. don't do a band aid by putting something around the outside. First find out why it leaked, correct it and install properly which will in almost all cases mean some kind of butyl tape, then and only then use a caulk around the outside.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!

esox07
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks Barney for the photo edit and reclass on the forum reclassification.
Minnesota Viking fan trapped in Wisconsin
2011 KZ Sportsmen Classic 19BH
2013 Chevy Silverado 1500, Ext Cab, 5.3L Z71, 4x4
Boliy 3600si
AAA Plus RV

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
Moved to Tech Issues forum from DIY.
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

esox07
Explorer
Explorer
Update, the leak returned. We were out this weekend and it rained all day saturday into sunday and by the afternoon on Saturday, I once again noticed the slight drip, drip, drip out from under the window over the sink, down the wall onto the counter top. I just kept a rag under it until we left and when I got home, I got up on a tall bucket and looked along the top of the window, there is clearly a breach in the seal. I will be pulling the window and re-doing the seal and replacing the window this week sometime. I really hope this is the final solution. Water leaks stress me out.

I guess I could just patch that spot with some sealant, but I would rather pull the whole window and redo the entire seal and make sure it is done right.

What do you guys think:

Moderator edit to re-size picture to forum limit of 640px maximum width.

Minnesota Viking fan trapped in Wisconsin
2011 KZ Sportsmen Classic 19BH
2013 Chevy Silverado 1500, Ext Cab, 5.3L Z71, 4x4
Boliy 3600si
AAA Plus RV

RVcircus
Explorer II
Explorer II
esox07 wrote:
I have seen a lot of posts that advised specifically against using silicone to seal trailers. And that is why they make specific stuff just for RV's. It could just be a marketing ploy to charge $10 for a tube of sealant instead of $3, but most of the online stuff suggests otherwise.


One of the biggest issues with silicone is that nothing, including silicone, will stick to it. When you need to reseal what will eventually need to be resealed you're in for a rough job.
2000 KZ Sportsman 2505 (overhauled & upgraded 2014)
2016 Chevy Express 3500 15 passanger van
6 humans, 2 cats, and a dog
Visit our blog at www.ROWLESmade.com
Our trailer re-build thread

esox07
Explorer
Explorer
I have seen a lot of posts that advised specifically against using silicone to seal trailers. And that is why they make specific stuff just for RV's. It could just be a marketing ploy to charge $10 for a tube of sealant instead of $3, but most of the online stuff suggests otherwise.
Minnesota Viking fan trapped in Wisconsin
2011 KZ Sportsmen Classic 19BH
2013 Chevy Silverado 1500, Ext Cab, 5.3L Z71, 4x4
Boliy 3600si
AAA Plus RV

free_radical
Explorer
Explorer
Make sure everything is DRY before aplying sealant,,
Imo the PL polyurethane adhesive is one of the best,,
I also used silicone on wooden roof when instaling solar panel bolts and its still good after many years,,

esox07
Explorer
Explorer
I think the problem was just my drain channels being clogged. I cleaned them out and poured water in them and they worked great. We have also had some good rain and no problems. I am going to hold off on the resealing the windows for now, but I have two tubes of Proflex on the way anyway. If I get bored this summer, I may go ahead and redo them anyway.
Thanks for that video and advice.
Minnesota Viking fan trapped in Wisconsin
2011 KZ Sportsmen Classic 19BH
2013 Chevy Silverado 1500, Ext Cab, 5.3L Z71, 4x4
Boliy 3600si
AAA Plus RV

RVcircus
Explorer II
Explorer II
esox07 wrote:
I have some Proflex RV on order from Campingworld.com. However, after watching a few youtube videos, it looks like I also need Butyl tape. Or does the Proflex substitute for the Butyl tape?

I have the corrugated siding on my RV so the surface is not nice and flat which makes me think that I would probably need the Butyl tape to fill in the low ridges on the siding.

This is a video that looks like my situation and how I will attack my window. Let me know if I am on the right track.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=belS_95xLcA


That's my video, so I'd do the same thing;) I haven't had any issues sealing windows that way & use Proflex over the butyl for an extra layer of protection. I use a double layer of buyyl on the sides to make sure the profile in the siding fills and it compresses all the way around the window frame.
2000 KZ Sportsman 2505 (overhauled & upgraded 2014)
2016 Chevy Express 3500 15 passanger van
6 humans, 2 cats, and a dog
Visit our blog at www.ROWLESmade.com
Our trailer re-build thread

esox07
Explorer
Explorer
I have some Proflex RV on order from Campingworld.com. However, after watching a few youtube videos, it looks like I also need Butyl tape. Or does the Proflex substitute for the Butyl tape?

I have the corrugated siding on my RV so the surface is not nice and flat which makes me think that I would probably need the Butyl tape to fill in the low ridges on the siding.

This is a video that looks like my situation and how I will attack my window. Let me know if I am on the right track.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=belS_95xLcA
Minnesota Viking fan trapped in Wisconsin
2011 KZ Sportsmen Classic 19BH
2013 Chevy Silverado 1500, Ext Cab, 5.3L Z71, 4x4
Boliy 3600si
AAA Plus RV

DrewE
Explorer
Explorer
One brand that I've used with good results that's available at Home Depot/Lowes is OSI Quad. So far as I can make out, it's very similar to GeoCel Proflex.

Geocel and Dicor RV products would be available at Camping World, RV dealers/repair centers, and of course online. (Do make sure, if you get Dicor, to get the no-sag version. Perhaps more commonly bought and used is a different version, the self-leveling lap joint compound, which is for sealing roofs and is too runny to use on vertical surfaces. If you just asked for Dicor that's probably what you'd get. It does work nicely enough for its intended purpose.)

donn0128
Explorer
Explorer
If this is a clamp of flush window? The butyl seal on clamp windows csn fail. Before wasting time slathering sealant all over the window, take it out, clean everything throroughly, go buy a roll of butyl putty tape. Apply all around the window, reinstal. Clean excess squeeze out, now, apply a small bead of Dicor around the top and sides of the window. Now you have a professional, permanent fix.

prichardson
Explorer
Explorer
Exterior sealants are available from Home Depot and such. Look for a major brand urethane or polymer based sealant for best results. Also thoroughly clean the area where you apply the sealant.