Any Northern Lite 10.2 EX SE owners out there?

[DaveInVA]

Greetings,

I am looking hard at this camper and would appreciate any negative feedback you might have about your camper? It appears to be a well built and thought out product, but I am looking for the dark side of Northern Lite if one exists!

What have you liked the most about the camper? Do you find that it handles harsher climates well?

Thank you

[covered_wagon]

Only during long term use in cold winter camping. Even with the vents open all day it still accumulated under the body of the camper. I could feel a lot of moisture in around the shell by peeling back the insulation above the HappyJack control board. The control board stopped working and saw moisture dripping off of it. Next I noticed a cab over side bulge or delamination developing. I have since repaired. Generally speaking the camper needs thicker insulation as the unit is so cold inside leaving a couple vents cracked all night didn't help. I wouldn't go longer than a week in around teens and below weather.

It would be nice if they would have an option of thicker insulation the way summers are so crowded, more and more folks do cold weather camping.

Warm days I turn on my built in bilge blower installed in the basement which is ducted to blow outside. It helps but don't forget and leave on if temps drop.

[burningman]

These campers haven’t got a frame, the fiberglass hull is the frame.
That’s whats so great about them. They don’t fall apart like all the stick-built campers.
You’ll be amazed how roomy a 10-2 EX is without a slide.
Don’t let the name fool you, it’s actually over 11’. And it’s got about eleventy zillion drawers. Mostly generous-sized ones too. It’s a pretty big rig.

[SoonDockin]

Is there an issue with moisture between the outer shell and frame? Wouldn't that be an issue with all of them?

I am thinking of getting one of these.

[covered_wagon]

burningman wrote:
Froli mattress system takes care of that, on either rig.

I'm talking about the build up between the fiberglass shell and the laminated insulation loosing its adhesion to the fiberglass. thicker or higher R value insulation is really needed.

[BMB]

"I haven’t picked mine up yet and have been debating whether I’ll put my Stable-Lift on the new rig.
I know all campers are kinda’ iffy on the peg-legs but have you found the NL more wobbly than others when standing on its jacks? "

1. Stable lift seems nice, but for us it doesn't work, simply for ground clearance issues off road.

2. the only camper i can compare the lack of stability is to our old camper an S&S. i ended buying fast gun wobble stoppers, this provided marginal stability. For those trips which are longer and i see the need to drop the camper, i think i will try the wobble stoppers and a leveling scissor jack towards the middle/rear to provide stability.

[burningman]

Froli mattress system takes care of that, on either rig.

[covered_wagon]

I think the BigFoot has an option for thicker insulation or may be thicker on its standard model anyway. I think this is important after experiencing some condensation build up problems.

[burningman]

10.2 EX CD SE
In that walk-through video you can watch the guy open and show the basement storage with the camper rear door closed.

[burningman]

I’m. It sure what you’re talking about.
I can tell you my basement storage door opens without opening the camper’s rear door.
Perhaps we have different models?

[K_Mac]

fly, your misinformation is misinformation,:), the top of the step frame hits the bottom of the closed door when you remove step. I got max air vent covers from Santa for Christmas, I sure hope I don't have issues as mentioned, will find out when I remove the cover I guess!

[K_Mac]

burningman wrote:

a_flyfisher wrote:


3. You have to remove the top step, and open the rear door, in order to access the basement storage compartment. I understand having to remove the top step, but it would be nice if you didn't have to also open the door.

This is misinformation. The basement door is well below the rear entrance door.
You do not have to open the rear door to access the basement storage compartment - unless you’re talking about the door to the basement storage compartment.
I mean, of course you have to open that. ???

[burningman]

a_flyfisher wrote:


3. You have to remove the top step, and open the rear door, in order to access the basement storage compartment. I understand having to remove the top step, but it would be nice if you didn't have to also open the door.

This is misinformation. The basement door is well below the rear entrance door.
You do not have to open the rear door to access the basement storage compartment - unless you’re talking about the door to the basement storage compartment.
I mean, of course you have to open that. ???

[burningman]

I haven’t picked mine up yet and have been debating whether I’ll put my Stable-Lift on the new rig.
I know all campers are kinda’ iffy on the peg-legs but have you found the NL more wobbly than others when standing on its jacks?

[BMB]

we have a 2016. I like everything about it, but the lack of stability when its off the truck.