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Extension Hitch Question

Miguel951
Explorer
Explorer
Hello! Back again for assistance with my setup. With the camper on the truck, I'm 29" exactly from the center of the pin on the hitch to the door of the camper. The question is: what is the best way to get there?


-I'm ok with part of the trailer going under the camper, just need to remove the jack and install one that I can tilt in transit.
- I have a 2" hitch receiver
- Trailer is a 12' single axle, carrying a UTV that fits snugly in the trailer. Approximate tongue weight of 600lbs (but will be taking to scales soon to get the exact weight).
-I do have a weight distribution hitch that I can include, would prefer not to use it since I'm using airbags and height can vary. (even though I can be exact, I would prefer not to mess with it).

I've seen 18' extensions and a hitch insert that can get me to 24" but they are rated at 3500 LBS and TW 350 LBS. I've also seen a 16" hitch ball mount rated at 6k LBS (assuming 600 LBS TW).

If I use the 16" extension only here are the dimensions I would be left with, not sure how safe I can turn with this setup.

I can provide more information if needed.



25 REPLIES 25

WarrenS65
Explorer II
Explorer II
Check out Patriot Hitches or Gen-Y Hitches.
Either will let you quickly adjust the height of your weight distribution hitch and add a bit of extension on for you.
2022 F450
2023 Host Everest
2021 Yamaha YXZ1000R
1987 Honda TRX250R
2002 Honda 400EX
2023 Yamaha Raptor 700SE
2018 Look 24' enclosed trailer

Miguel951
Explorer
Explorer
Thank you all for the great advice.

I hear the ones saying that I can easily roll with the 2" hitch with either a custom-made extension or just the off-the-shelf extension. I appreciate that advice as well and will honestly consider it just as much as the 2.5" hitch w/ the 24-36" extension. Thank you for the help, the time and energy

Miguel951
Explorer
Explorer
mkirsch wrote:
We've already gone down the torklift rabbit hole in the previous thread. OP doesn't want to spend the money, and really, probably doesn't need to for what they want to tow NOW. That is, pulling a 3500lb trailer with a 600lb tongue weight.

That's fine. If there was a RATED extension available for their 2" receiver, that's probably all they need. No such thing exists. No 2" extensions on the market are rated for more than 3500lbs, period.

Upgrading to a 2-1/2" receiver and getting the RATED extension is a good middle of the road solution.

OP doesn't trust their own engineering ability and wants to keep within ratings. There is nothing wrong with that. Throwing caution to the wind isn't for everyone.


Thank you! this is exactly what I feel is a happy middle-of-the-road solution.

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
^Perfect advice. A 2.5โ€ receiver will handle what heโ€™s doing without even breaking a sweat, or a weld, lol. The good ones (idk what the Ford OE is, but Ram is 1800lbs iirc) will be rated for 3x + of his actual tongue weight. And a 2โ€™ moment arm (hitch extension) would allow for 900lbs tongue weight (@1800lb hitch rating) and before exceeding the โ€œrating.โ€
The next part is where folks who donโ€™t understand (understandably) the basics of design factor of safety, some of which is completely necessary and some of which is to idiot proof and reduce financial liability of commonly overloaded or abused components, like trailer hitches, rims and tires, the stuff that in a catastrophic failure may make the evening news and a law firms principleโ€™s desk, both in short order.
With a little knowledge gleaned either formally, in formally (like on this forum) or by experience, good or bad, one can be relatively assured that dipping a little into the โ€œidiot proofโ€ portion of the factor of safety isnโ€™t a bad thing.

The same people who ask how to shift their automatic transmission on their new motorhome are the same type that generally arenโ€™t good with going over the โ€œratingโ€ due to lack of knowledge and their perception that itโ€™s โ€œunsafe.โ€ When in reality, them simply being behind the wheel of something they arenโ€™t qualified to handle or even understand the basics is arguably a far greater personal liability.

Itโ€™s ok, ratings are there for a reason, but the aire of reasonableness seems lost on many.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
We've already gone down the torklift rabbit hole in the previous thread. OP doesn't want to spend the money, and really, probably doesn't need to for what they want to tow NOW. That is, pulling a 3500lb trailer with a 600lb tongue weight.

That's fine. If there was a RATED extension available for their 2" receiver, that's probably all they need. No such thing exists. No 2" extensions on the market are rated for more than 3500lbs, period.

Upgrading to a 2-1/2" receiver and getting the RATED extension is a good middle of the road solution.

OP doesn't trust their own engineering ability and wants to keep within ratings. There is nothing wrong with that. Throwing caution to the wind isn't for everyone.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

Baja_Man
Explorer
Explorer
Miguel--
You may want to read this...Hitch Set up for Towing

I helped a friend set up his hitch for towing. He wanted the safest method possible. We talked about several different options, and in the end decided on Torklift, as pictured below...

2023 GMC, 3500HD, Crew Cab, 6.6L Gas/6 Speed Auto, 4X4, Standard Bed; SRW
2011 Outback 250RS - Anniversary Edition
Equal-i-zer 10K

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
And if youโ€™re worried that an 18โ€ extension plus long stinger or whatever combo youโ€™re at is t quite long enough for jack knife backing up.
You have a little trailer behind a normal size pickup. With a little care and driving skill youโ€™d shouldnโ€™t need to do that maneuver often. And if you get in that odd spot where you need to, carry another extension to slap in there to make the turn. Costs you 5-10 minutes and $50 to make it a non issue for a relatively rare issue.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
Well, the rvnetters who โ€œthinkโ€ they know what theyโ€™re talking about are doing what they do best and scaring you off of something they โ€œthinkโ€ is scary, but never done/nor had a bad experience or you know they would relate that story in a heartbeat. And while Iโ€™m sure you think youโ€™re just being cautious, youโ€™re taking the bait. Hook line and sinker.
When it was YOU that had this idea to begin with and now even though youโ€™ve demonstrated that itโ€™s reasonable, are getting cold feet.

PS, I drug around a 2 seater RZR900 on the same type of single axle trailer. Behind the same truck and camper pictured above. Can say I never gave it a thought and it pulled like the proverbial โ€œdonโ€™t even know itโ€™s back thereโ€.
Your 1000turbo donโ€™t weigh that much more.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
One of the most important factors is confidence in your rig. If you're not confident in your fabrication skills or confident that you know more than the manufacturers of the accessories, you won't be confident in your rig, and you won't want to drive it.

Lots of folks ignore ratings, do whatever suits their fancy, and get away with it. God bless 'em because sooner or later they're going to need it.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

Miguel951
Explorer
Explorer
Thank you all for the helpful advice. I really like the Torklift system but honestly more than I care to spend (almost $2K). I'm going to look for a 2.5" hitch with the 24"-36" extension bar and that will be $500-$600

You guys are right, there's no 2" extension bar at 24". What was meant was getting a 16" extension with my standard ball hitch adapter that gave me 24". The only problem there it's only rated at 3500 lbs and 350 TW. but I have seen those 2" extensions that I can customize.

Making my own is still interesting but your right. At my own risk and without any testing or knowing. My real vision was starting with a 2" solid shank in the receiver, going into a 2 1/2" tube (reinforcing with a 2" tube inside of it) and then ending with a 2" drop (or whatever is appropriate) and ball like a standard hitch. Just one piece from the first pin on the hitch and with the chain system similar to the torklift and Reese extension (in a triangle shape) from the outer edges of the hitch to the extension. I feel like it will work and be plety strong but then concerned about the stress it will put on the 2" hitch and how that will also have to be reinforced with gussets and by that point I go back to the 2.5" hitch with the 24-36" extension.

I will still measure tongue weight but think the 2.5" hitch with the 24-36" extension is probably the best bet

3_tons
Explorer
Explorer
Well, not to dampen your spirits, but as they say on Shark Tank, โ€œGood Luck, Iโ€™m Outโ€ ๐Ÿ™‚

3 tons

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
The other option is something custom built. Before Torklift that was pretty much the only option.

There are prefabricated 2" weld on receiver tubes up to 48" long. To fit your 2x2 receiver you'd need to reduce it down with either some 2x2 square tube or better yet a solid bar. Nice thing about the prefabricated receiver tubes is the receiver end is already cross drilled and reinforced.

This solution involves a whole lot of "that looks about right" engineering, because most people simply have no idea how to go about designing such a thing. It also leaves you hanging in the wind for everything. There is no manufacturer to tell you what your contraption is rated for, or to stand behind it if it fails. You're just guessing that this extension won't fold in half the first time you cross a set of train tracks, or won't launch the trailer into the oncoming lane the first time you swerve slightly on the highway.

It is the solution I took, but I went into it knowing I was using material that was as good or better than what commercially available extensions were made from. There are also no welds on my extension to call into question, as my receiver is 2-1/2" and the receiver tube fits directly into it with no need to weld in a reduction. The only welds are for D-rings which transfer the safety chains from the truck receiver to the trailer. I was also only extending 12" so the forces were greatly reduced.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
^Apples to apples yes. But the OP is set on his little trailer and itโ€™s just fine for what heโ€™s doing and his entire setup, so I donโ€™t understand your point since him and a tandem were already a non starter for him.
If you were referring to my post above, I can guarantee you whatever the tongue weight was it was far more than a RZR pointed either direction on a his trailer.
Was my whole point of digging up 10 year old pics. To stop the speculation.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

3_tons
Explorer
Explorer
Itโ€™s been my experience that with a double axle trailer less of the weight ends up on the tongueโ€ฆItโ€™s in this regard that (from dreaded learned experienceโ€ฆ) thereโ€™s no economy in a budget set-upโ€ฆReworks are best avoidedโ€ฆ

3 tons