Hot Water Heater Bypass Valves

[Mark_and_Linda]

I was de winterizing my Puma today...I noticed one of my bypass valves at the hot water heater leaking. I have it out, would anyone know of a good place to get a replacement valve? I have been trying to research the numbers on the valve that I removed. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

[Mark_and_Linda]

Ozlander wrote:

Mark and Linda wrote:
Been reading the replies, got her fixed this morning. I went to Home Depot got a Pex Straight Valve, 1/2 inch on both ends, clamps, bought a clamper...more blue pex pipe than I needed and installed it. No leaks...I filled up the hot water heater, from my fresh water tank and checked it. I put water to the system from my water hose...everything works. I now have a Pex Cutter, Clamps and Clamper, plus 4 feet of blue pex pipe, just waiting to be reused. I might add, when I cut the old valve loose, I used my Dreml to cut the clamps and part of the pipe..being careful not to get into the other plastic fittings. My old valve was leaking from the bottom...had a rubber seal that protruded out. I am glad that I noticed it now...than later. Total cost: 77 $$ with my military discount.

Good on you.
Most people on here would pay the dealer $500 to do that and wait 3 months.

Thanks, I am one that doesn't like to have others do a repair that I can figure out how to do it. I worked on C-130's for 30 years...got to look at the problem, then figure out a way to fix it.

[Mark_and_Linda]

hohenwald48 wrote:

SDcampowneroperator wrote:
Shark bite fittings work very well, on new tubing, but cannot be removed without cutting the pipe. I would stay with the style you have in case the tubing has been deformed by the prior fittings, in which case other style fittings may not seal.
You didnt say where the valve is leaking, or what type. Give us a heads up?

You might want to watch this video to learn the proper way to remove a shark bite type fitting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFEmVVYcxdQ

On my Puma in the hallway is a small panel on the left side at floor level. It has two screws holding it...behind it is the plastic valves going to the hot water heater and the bypass valve. The cold water valve that controls the water going into the hot water heater was the one that was leaking. I always do a leak check on the plumbing after the winter. It had a small stream of water spouting out. Look at your fittings in your trailer to see what they look like...I took a Dreml to mine and cut the clamp being careful not to damage the plastic elbow that they were connected too. When I cut them with the Dreml the clamp opened up some so I could insert a small flat bladed screw driver into them and open them up. You just have to be careful in not doing more damage.

[Ozlander]

Mark and Linda wrote:
Been reading the replies, got her fixed this morning. I went to Home Depot got a Pex Straight Valve, 1/2 inch on both ends, clamps, bought a clamper...more blue pex pipe than I needed and installed it. No leaks...I filled up the hot water heater, from my fresh water tank and checked it. I put water to the system from my water hose...everything works. I now have a Pex Cutter, Clamps and Clamper, plus 4 feet of blue pex pipe, just waiting to be reused. I might add, when I cut the old valve loose, I used my Dreml to cut the clamps and part of the pipe..being careful not to get into the other plastic fittings. My old valve was leaking from the bottom...had a rubber seal that protruded out. I am glad that I noticed it now...than later. Total cost: 77 $$ with my military discount.

Good on you.
Most people on here would pay the dealer $500 to do that and wait 3 months.

[hohenwald48]

SDcampowneroperator wrote:
Shark bite fittings work very well, on new tubing, but cannot be removed without cutting the pipe. I would stay with the style you have in case the tubing has been deformed by the prior fittings, in which case other style fittings may not seal.
You didnt say where the valve is leaking, or what type. Give us a heads up?

You might want to watch this video to learn the proper way to remove a shark bite type fitting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFEmVVYcxdQ

[harley4275]

Another winterizing trick to stop this from happening is to turn the valves to regular use before the pressure is out of the winterized lines allowing a bit of pink stuff to flow thru valve.

[Mark_and_Linda]

jacko147 wrote:

Mark and Linda wrote:
Been reading the replies, got her fixed this morning. I went to Home Depot got a Pex Straight Valve, 1/2 inch on both ends, clamps, bought a clamper...more blue pex pipe than I needed and installed it. No leaks...I filled up the hot water heater, from my fresh water tank and checked it. I put water to the system from my water hose...everything works. I now have a Pex Cutter, Clamps and Clamper, plus 4 feet of blue pex pipe, just waiting to be reused. I might add, when I cut the old valve loose, I used my Dreml to cut the clamps and part of the pipe..being careful not to get into the other plastic fittings. My old valve was leaking from the bottom...had a rubber seal that protruded out. I am glad that I noticed it now...than later. Total cost: 77 $$ with my military discount.

I ended up with pretty much the same result... Ive learned the reason for failure was that I drained and bypassed the HWH before I opened the low point drains, which left a small amount of water near the valve, which damaged it over the winter, since then I make sure to drain low point valves when I empty the HWH, then bypass the valves

Thanks for the info....will try and remember when I do it the end of this year. Live and learn....always like to post so that others may take heed.

[Mark_and_Linda]

I chunked mine after I got it out.....I seen the little rubber sticking out at the bottom. Just didn't want to take any further chances with it under pressure. Thanks.....

[WillyB]

Just re-read my post and realized I didn't give specifics. The plastic valve is a push-apart two piece unit with o-rings as sealers. When water in it freezes, it forces the o-ring out the bottom a bit. Figured mine was a loss anyway so I started pushing on the valve and playing with it. When you open it up you look at it and go DOH!

[WillyB]

Don't know if you are still following this, but that valve likely has the o-ring sticking out a little on the bottom. Had the same problem.....five minute fix to reseat the o-ring. Save the old valve as a spare.

[jacko147]

Mark and Linda wrote:
Been reading the replies, got her fixed this morning. I went to Home Depot got a Pex Straight Valve, 1/2 inch on both ends, clamps, bought a clamper...more blue pex pipe than I needed and installed it. No leaks...I filled up the hot water heater, from my fresh water tank and checked it. I put water to the system from my water hose...everything works. I now have a Pex Cutter, Clamps and Clamper, plus 4 feet of blue pex pipe, just waiting to be reused. I might add, when I cut the old valve loose, I used my Dreml to cut the clamps and part of the pipe..being careful not to get into the other plastic fittings. My old valve was leaking from the bottom...had a rubber seal that protruded out. I am glad that I noticed it now...than later. Total cost: 77 $$ with my military discount.

I ended up with pretty much the same result... Ive learned the reason for failure was that I drained and bypassed the HWH before I opened the low point drains, which left a small amount of water near the valve, which damaged it over the winter, since then I make sure to drain low point valves when I empty the HWH, then bypass the valves

[Mark_and_Linda]

Been reading the replies, got her fixed this morning. I went to Home Depot got a Pex Straight Valve, 1/2 inch on both ends, clamps, bought a clamper...more blue pex pipe than I needed and installed it. No leaks...I filled up the hot water heater, from my fresh water tank and checked it. I put water to the system from my water hose...everything works. I now have a Pex Cutter, Clamps and Clamper, plus 4 feet of blue pex pipe, just waiting to be reused. I might add, when I cut the old valve loose, I used my Dreml to cut the clamps and part of the pipe..being careful not to get into the other plastic fittings. My old valve was leaking from the bottom...had a rubber seal that protruded out. I am glad that I noticed it now...than later. Total cost: 77 $$ with my military discount.

[westend]

If you can, buy a "full flow" valve. Some supply side valves are not full flow.

[RedRocket204]

dodge guy wrote:
And why are you heating hot water! 😉

Sounds like it's only leaking when parked on his driveway.

[dodge_guy]

Yep, take it to any store that stocks plumbing accessories.

And why are you heating hot water! 😉