How do I repair delamination filon? Arctic Fox 990

[presh223]

Hi all,

New to the forum. I purchased a 2002 Arctic Fox 990 from my parents recently (they were first owners) and there is front delamination. The camper was covered by like 1,000 tarps because dads like tarps. After I purchased it I discovered the delam issues. It's not a pretty sight, but I am confident it isn't a result of prolonged water intrusion because it was always covered. We renegotiated the deal after I discovered the issue to our mutual satisfaction.
Where so I purchase the filon material, and is there a cheaper alternative? Should I cut a new seam or put on a front sheet to the base of the camper? Minimally invasive is what I am hoping for. I used to enjoy projects like this, but this doesn't look super fun. I am preparing to do an off-grid year exploring America and possibly doing the whole Youtube thing, so I would like it to be sound and aesthetic for when I depart.
Thanks in advance for your feedback, I appreciate it.

[GAR2]

No expert, in fact new to RV.net and getting acclimated to the camping (trucker campers) world, but I have done a lot of work to my wood core fiberglass boats over the years. I have removed a lot of rotted wood and replaced. What I couldn’t get to there are good products that you pour into the rotted core wood to transform/ harden to a stable material. Excess fluids do need drains and allowed to evaporate and dry before sealing. And wear respirator for fumes/good ventilation. Caring for boats for years, a big concern is a tarp(s) that can’t breathe and hold/trap condensation. Good luck with your project!!

[1jogger]

northshore wrote:
Wow if you can get AF to do that much repair for $2k + that would be the way to go, I know when I checked with our local RV place about 6 mos. ago. That guy wanted $2k just to get started, he told me about ta dozen times that this is an expensive undertaking... so if AF will do repairs, thats the way I would go.

I originally had an estimate of 2 up to 6k if they had to do the whole front, "San Diego" estimate. A call to the factory still would be worth it.
I toured the factory the next day and was impressed then saw mine when it was apart, what a mess.
Good luck!

[covered_wagon]

Because My Northern Lite has no front window....

I am thinking about installing one of the old front entry door spy glasses. You know like a small wide angle telescope, but seal it real well so no leaks.

[northshore]

Wow if you can get AF to do that much repair for $2k + that would be the way to go, I know when I checked with our local RV place about 6 mos. ago. That guy wanted $2k just to get started, he told me about ta dozen times that this is an expensive undertaking... so if AF will do repairs, thats the way I would go.

[Grit_dog]

presh223 wrote:

Downwindtracker2 wrote:
It's just fiberglass and polyester resin with a thin gelcoat, you are dealing with. Once the air is allowed out, it should flex.

Most of the time will be used in the mold/strongbacks making which once your two templates are made, they can be done in a basement. A couple of weeks of evening with your new spindle sander. Wear a dust mask. Ask System Three out of Portland which epoxies they recommend. An old eggbeater hand drill is the perfect tool for drilling the tiny holes for the injection. Big agricultural syringes might be harder to come by.

The repair can easily be done on a weekend, and covered by, get this, a tarp, chuckle.

My neighbor has done a couple of delams under windows on his '08 Fleetwood toy hauler. And has a couple more to do.

We have ORV travel trailer which had 1/32" or less checkerplate on the nose, which I dented. I replaced it with 1/16", and framing behind it. 2 years in ! I had a hard time finding a shop to roll 1/8" so I swapped the 1/8" for 1/16" and got a free roll.

My hunting camper is a stick and tin.

Nash might still be using the mold , so you might ask them for parts. They are just south and east of you in Le Grande . That would do a much nicer job, but it would be more work.

BAHAHAHA cover it with the initial offender. No covered workspace unless I build it myself. I may have to wait to do it when I get to san diego and just keep it watertight in the interim. Which really sucks because I presently have access to all of my tools. Definitely, something to think about.

Ya, down tracker doesn't understand the delam on the front of these campers. You're not just gluing it back on. It's too stiff. May crack even if clamped properly.
I have same camper, same issue. Asthetics only, no rot.
I've considered doing the same presh. About $150 for a full sheet of 1/16" diamond plate. If I did that, I think I'd screw down the pooched out areas, hopefully flat and then run 1 piece from the top seam to just the end of the bottom curve, covering the whole front. If it for good enough, you might get away with no screws on the front face or at least just the left and right edges, and could hide screws under the window trim.

[1jogger]

Similar story with our 2006 AF 990. After purchase, on the return trip from Texas to Ca. The wind buffeting the front brought out all delamination bubbles on the nose and over cab sagging, looked like yours.
After head shaking estimates I called AF in Oregon, made an appt and had the whole nose, top to bottom from top seam to bottom of sliding window and underneath bed replaced. Wood, filon and everything for 2k, granted it was about 5 or 6 years ago but they treated us great and threw in some extras. We made a vacation out of it. Took them 2 days and looks brand new.
A friend had the sagging delamination over the cab, under the bedroom, he drilled a few holes injected glue pressed up with wood and
it turned out fine.
Hope this helps
1jogger

[presh223]

northshore wrote:
I see you are thinking about using a piece of diamond plate or something like that to cover the "ugly area"
IF you go that route, consider just removing that front window and covering over that area . Of all the campers we looked at, when we were hunting for ours that window was the first place I looked for problems. It seems that a huge percentage of campers have problems with that front area not being sealed. Our first Lance did not come with a window in the front and we did NOT miss having a window in that place one bit.
Just an idea and may even help in your decision when and how to cover that area with diamond plate or what ever you choose.

I know what you mean about that delimitation being ugly I dont think i could live with it like it is, but then i tend to be somewhat picky

Yes, that's precisely what I was thinking. To eliminate the window and just put a rectangular sheet of thin aluminum on it. I hate to drill into the camper, but I guess if you use the right hardware and dip them in a sealant first it should be okay. The only advantage I see from the window is that because it will be my home for a duration I like the idea of it being a surveillance point to make sure no one is up near the truck at Walmart parking lots, etc. My truck interior will be a primary storage compartment, but I guess I can look into cameras or something as well.

[northshore]

I see you are thinking about using a piece of diamond plate or something like that to cover the "ugly area"
IF you go that route, consider just removing that front window and covering over that area . Of all the campers we looked at, when we were hunting for ours that window was the first place I looked for problems. It seems that a huge percentage of campers have problems with that front area not being sealed. Our first Lance did not come with a window in the front and we did NOT miss having a window in that place one bit.
Just an idea and may even help in your decision when and how to cover that area with diamond plate or what ever you choose.

I know what you mean about that delimitation being ugly I dont think i could live with it like it is, but then i tend to be somewhat picky

[jimh406]

A pop-up tarp cover supplemented with tarps/plastic or portable garage might work.

[presh223]

Downwindtracker2 wrote:
It's just fiberglass and polyester resin with a thin gelcoat, you are dealing with. Once the air is allowed out, it should flex.

Most of the time will be used in the mold/strongbacks making which once your two templates are made, they can be done in a basement. A couple of weeks of evening with your new spindle sander. Wear a dust mask. Ask System Three out of Portland which epoxies they recommend. An old eggbeater hand drill is the perfect tool for drilling the tiny holes for the injection. Big agricultural syringes might be harder to come by.

The repair can easily be done on a weekend, and covered by, get this, a tarp, chuckle.

My neighbor has done a couple of delams under windows on his '08 Fleetwood toy hauler. And has a couple more to do.

We have ORV travel trailer which had 1/32" or less checkerplate on the nose, which I dented. I replaced it with 1/16", and framing behind it. 2 years in ! I had a hard time finding a shop to roll 1/8" so I swapped the 1/8" for 1/16" and got a free roll.

My hunting camper is a stick and tin.

Nash might still be using the mold , so you might ask them for parts. They are just south and east of you in Le Grande . That would do a much nicer job, but it would be more work.

BAHAHAHA cover it with the initial offender. No covered workspace unless I build it myself. I may have to wait to do it when I get to san diego and just keep it watertight in the interim. Which really sucks because I presently have access to all of my tools. Definitely, something to think about.

[Downwindtracke1]

It's just fiberglass and polyester resin with a thin gelcoat, you are dealing with. Once the air is allowed out, it should flex.

Most of the time will be used in the mold/strongbacks making which once your two templates are made, they can be done in a basement. A couple of weeks of evening with your new spindle sander. Wear a dust mask. Ask System Three out of Portland which epoxies they recommend. An old eggbeater hand drill is the perfect tool for drilling the tiny holes for the injection. Big agricultural syringes might be harder to come by.

The repair can easily be done on a weekend, and covered by, get this, a tarp, chuckle.

My neighbor has done a couple of delams under windows on his '08 Fleetwood toy hauler. And has a couple more to do.

We have ORV travel trailer which had 1/32" or less checkerplate on the nose, which I dented. I replaced it with 1/16", and framing behind it. 2 years in ! I had a hard time finding a shop to roll 1/8" so I swapped the 1/8" for 1/16" and got a free roll.

My hunting camper is a stick and tin.

Nash might still be using the mold , so you might ask them for parts. They are just south and east of you in Le Grande . That would do a much nicer job, but it would be more work.

[presh223]

Downwindtracker2 wrote:
Boat owners deal with delamination a fair bit. Polyester resin doesn't stick to wet wood. West System has vids on it. Watch them. I like using epoxy for repairs and building. Inject epoxy and clamp, simple.

I would rate that as an easy fix,pulling the window allows you to clamp. A male and female molds, and very serious strong backs. I would build them out of 3/4" plywood and 1/2" RediRod. A jig saw and a drum sander would your friends as you make 14? identical curved plywood edges for your female mold. You'll need fewer male. Look at the mold stations on cedar strip canoes .

Not very difficult but certainly time consuming.

While you're at it, pull all the windows and corners and seal with Proflex or Stkaflex.

The problem is the filon had hardened significantly and the bubbles are not maliable at all. I think before I go trying to salvage this piece, it may be easier to just sheet it with one of those sheets of diamond plate. I just don't know where to stop it. I think I would p opt to create a new seam just below the curve under the window to not have to mess with all of that because all though it has sagged down there a tiny bit, I hope it stays intact. But if you're already embarking on the fix I presume you should do it right. I am in Seattle, and don't have good cover from rain. So I guess gotta find a garage to rent or something. How many hours you estimate this project to take? 20-30?

[Downwindtracke1]

Boat owners deal with delamination a fair bit. Polyester resin doesn't stick to wet wood. West System has vids on it. Watch them. I like using epoxy for repairs and building. Inject epoxy and clamp, simple.

I would rate that as an easy fix,pulling the window allows you to clamp. A male and female molds, and very serious strong backs. I would build them out of 3/4" plywood and 1/2" RediRod. A jig saw and a drum sander would your friends as you make 14? identical curved plywood edges for your female mold. You'll need fewer male. Look at the mold stations on cedar strip canoes .

Not very difficult but certainly time consuming.

While you're at it, pull all the windows and corners and seal with Proflex or Stkaflex.

[Kayteg1]

ardvark wrote:
I am also familiar with their product having used it. The video is fine as long as you bear in mind it shows repair in one of the easiest locations at a window. What I found is being able to clamp things while the glue dries is crucial and in many locations can be really difficult.

It also shows epoxy applied in mild weather.
As much as I love epoxy for such repairs, using it in triple digits temperatures gives you about 5 minutes work time before it turns into jello.
Not enough to do any serious job.
They also have long-reach clamp that I have never seen at tool places.