Incorrect specs on tires? What are my options....

[Derick]

Hey all....yet another dramatic chapter in my first year of camper ownership. Good news though, all my recent pex plumbing repairs on the water heater are good!

Onto the not so great news. Now, I first want to mention, I dont BELIEVE I had this issue when I towed with my toyota sequoia. Now, I did NOT have tow mirrors on the seq, I simply may not have seen it. Anyhow, I understand there are a few variables at play here. My 2007 Suburban 2500 sits a bit higher, and the hitch is IN the bumper, versus under it. So my WDH is on the lowest possible slot on the shank, but it still is pitched a bit higher than level.

Anyhow, onto the issue. The camper has 14" wheels. When I bought it, it had tires that were NOT spec. I can't seem to find the pic that was taken of the sidewalls, but they were NOT what the camper had on the sticker. They were an odd size, and it seemed only Carlisle made them. They were well over $100/tire, and hard to find. Now, the sticker calls for ST205/75D14 at 50 lbs. So, me wanting to stick with what the builder called for....stuck with ST205-75-14. I think I did go with E rated though, instead of D. Anyhow, when I hit a medium or greater bump, the tires hit the inside of the wheel well, and smoke off. It's just a second or so, but I felt bad for the drivers behind me thinking WTF?!?? heh. I can barely get a fingers width between the wheel well and the tire tread, with less so on the rear tire.

This was the second run with my dad and son with the camper, and the first we had the sequoia. I had felt it was a little under power, so I got this suburban - and it towed great. So I guess I have a few questions;
1) why would the builder put tires with such little clearance on it?
2) what other options, in more popular (read; cheaper) sizes could I swap for tires
3) is the pitch up going to make a huge difference in tire clearance? (I can get the extra long shank, but its 90 bucks)

Thanks in advance, I appreciate everyone's expertise as I work through this problematic first season.

[SoundGuy]

Derick wrote:
The camper has 14" wheels. When I bought it, it had tires that were NOT spec. I can't seem to find the pic that was taken of the sidewalls, but they were NOT what the camper had on the sticker. They were an odd size, and it seemed only Carlisle made them. They were well over $100/tire, and hard to find. Now, the sticker calls for ST205/75D14 at 50 lbs.

If this trailer is wearing a tire loading sticker that calls for bias ply load range C ST205/75D14 tires then there's no reason a set of premium US manufactured Goodyear Endurance radial load range D ST205/75R14 wouldn't be the ideal replacement tire for your trailer. As for clearance you need to get the trailer riding level when hitched up, whatever that takes, then assess whether the leaf springs themselves may have sagged and need replacement. Baby steps - one step at a time.

[eHoefler]

Get the trailer level at the hitch first, you may have to buy a new hitch, If you don't have a lift or oversized tires on the tow vehicle, they will have a hitch to get you level.

[Derick]

Actually I did weigh it on our outing this weekend. Came in at 4840, and it's on dual 3k dexter axles. I'll go and double check the leafs, I'm pretty sure they aren't flat - but not certain.

[racer4]

Check the trailer's leaf springs. Do they still have a normal arc or are they flattened? If they are flattened get new ones. Leaf springs are inexpensive, you could even upgrade to the next higher capacity.

Also, have you weighed the trailer? Is it overloaded?

Either of the above will have the trailer riding lower than normal.

Flipping the axles, as Huntindog said, will raise the trailer. That will help with the hitch also.

I think I have read that Correct Track lifts the trailer. Maybe 2", not sure.

[Atlee]

What you got is a bias ply tire, instead of a radial ply tire. You want a radial ply tire.

Derick wrote:
So I actually got a load range D, not E like I thought. But, I did buy them in radial. So I guess I screwed the pooch on that one.

My WDH shank is already in the drop position. I thought for a second it wasnt, but after looking at it again, I'm certain it is.

I believe this is fully stock. While I could never prove it, the camper never got that much use prior to my purchase. The oven had not been used a single time, and this is a 2007 model. My guess would be that it has less than 5k worth of road miles on it, and with that is bone stock. I assume that the original owners ran into the same issue I am, and put on the shorter profile tires.

Here's a pic of it, just before I dropped the WDH down a hole. It helped, but not much;
Pic

[Derick]

So I actually got a load range D, not E like I thought. But, I did buy them in radial. So I guess I screwed the pooch on that one.

My WDH shank is already in the drop position. I thought for a second it wasnt, but after looking at it again, I'm certain it is.

I believe this is fully stock. While I could never prove it, the camper never got that much use prior to my purchase. The oven had not been used a single time, and this is a 2007 model. My guess would be that it has less than 5k worth of road miles on it, and with that is bone stock. I assume that the original owners ran into the same issue I am, and put on the shorter profile tires.

Here's a pic of it, just before I dropped the WDH down a hole. It helped, but not much;
Pic

[JIMNLIN]

1. A ST205/75D14 at 50 psi is a load range C bias ply tire which has a narrow profile. The D in that position is a bias ply designation.
You put a ST205/75 E load range probably radial at 80 psi which has a wider profile and is way too much tire for replacing a C load range tire.
Only the trailer mfg know why they chose that particular tire.

2. its not a wise idea to cheap out on tires for a trailer that may see lots of highway miles.

[Huntindog]

Derick wrote:
Hey all....yet another dramatic chapter in my first year of camper ownership. Good news though, all my recent pex plumbing repairs on the water heater are good!

Onto the not so great news. Now, I first want to mention, I dont BELIEVE I had this issue when I towed with my toyota sequoia. Now, I did NOT have tow mirrors on the seq, I simply may not have seen it. Anyhow, I understand there are a few variables at play here. My 2007 Suburban 2500 sits a bit higher, and the hitch is IN the bumper, versus under it. So my WDH is on the lowest possible slot on the shank, but it still is pitched a bit higher than level.

Anyhow, onto the issue. The camper has 14" wheels. When I bought it, it had tires that were NOT spec. I can't seem to find the pic that was taken of the sidewalls, but they were NOT what the camper had on the sticker. They were an odd size, and it seemed only Carlisle made them. They were well over $100/tire, and hard to find. Now, the sticker calls for ST205/75D14 at 50 lbs. So, me wanting to stick with what the builder called for....stuck with ST205-75-14. I think I did go with E rated though, instead of D. Anyhow, when I hit a medium or greater bump, the tires hit the inside of the wheel well, and smoke off. It's just a second or so, but I felt bad for the drivers behind me thinking WTF?!?? heh. I can barely get a fingers width between the wheel well and the tire tread, with less so on the rear tire.

This was the second run with my dad and son with the camper, and the first we had the sequoia. I had felt it was a little under power, so I got this suburban - and it towed great. So I guess I have a few questions;
1) why would the builder put tires with such little clearance on it?
2) what other options, in more popular (read; cheaper) sizes could I swap for tires
3) is the pitch up going to make a huge difference in tire clearance? (I can get the extra long shank, but its 90 bucks)

Thanks in advance, I appreciate everyone's expertise as I work through this problematic first season.

Dexter states a minimum of 3" between the top of the tires and the wheel well.

You seem to be wayyy under that. Either something has been changed on the TT from how it was made, or it was made wrong. Either are good possibilities.

You may now know why your TT had those tires on it.

At any rate, it can't be used that way, without damage.

So how to fix it.....

The most likely way IMO is to flip the axles under the springs. This is a common mod that many do. I have done it on all of my TTs that did not come that way.

The axles are not actually flipped, just repositioned under the springs. New perches are welded on and you gain the thickness of the axle + the perches in height.... Usually about 3" which us just what you need. That will fix your level problem and tire clearance problem all at once.

BTW... Don't feel stuck with what the tire placard says. That is a MINIMUM tire spec... TT manufacturers put the cheapest stuff they legally can on their TTs.... Nothing to stop you from improving on it.... And many of us do just that.

[WayneAt63044]

Can you turn the shank over so that it has a drop rather than a rise or are you already in that configuration? Sounds like you need to get it level in any case.

[marcsbigfoot20b]

Sounds like a leaf spring/hanger/axle suspension problem unless you are way out of level.

[Trackrig]

Is it just the back tires that are hitting because of the now upward pitch of the trailer, or tires on both axles.

Bill